Is barrel & action salvageable- Sticky bolt, chamber scratching case

couesaddict, you are correct about the feed lips, if using a detachable magazine but, a Remington 700 BDL and ADL use an internal magazine box with no feed lips. Instead, it uses the underside of the action, the bottom of the bolt slide rail, as feed lips. When going to a detachable box magazine from a Remington 700 ADL or BDL action, you usually have to modify those bottom rails to make the magazine feed properly.

The replacement Wyatt's internal magazine box works just like the original Remington box, except with a little more room lengthwise. There are usually no feed lips on the Wyatt's internal box magazine either. That would suggest to me that the gunsmith altered the action bottom, widening the bottom of the bolt slide, but for what reason I have no idea...
Gotcha. I guess I made a couple assumptions. I've got a Wyatt's box in a Winchester model 70 that I had to work the feed lips over on to resolve very similar issues to the OP's is why I brought it up. I do remember now that my Remington's are just straight sided boxes. Thanks for the clarification
 
You often need to mod the Wyatt's and tweak it so it places the case in the proper position on the rails to both hold the case then release it at the propper time. I also replace the original follower with the extended follower as you have less issues with it dropping the back of the case. Really it looks like he just tried to get it done when under way to much stress and didn't take the time to do the last fit and finish stuff.
If you look at the original box they use it to position the case under the rails, the Wyatt's come straight and you do need to tweak them.
 
Last edited:
You often need to mod the Wyatt's and tweak it so it places the case in the proper position on the rails to both hold the case then release it at the propper time. I also replace the original follower with the extended follower as you have less issues with it dropping the back of the case. Really it looks like he just tried to get it done when under way to much stress and didn't take the time to do the last fit and finish stuff.
If you look at the original box they use it to position the case under the rails, the Wyatt's come straight and you do need to tweak them.
Pretty sure it has a factory follower. Wyatt's are black, or at least mine is. bigngreen is spot on. Also, did you check the front action screw?
 
Your handling of this agonizing conundrum is surely commendable. So too are all the comments: knowledgeable experienced and empathic too. In reading this dilemma I am reminded--as if I needed reminding--of a very similar situation I had. However, this is about your past experience. Given all the aforementioned sage counsel I'll focus on your upcoming elk adventure. Here's an idea: call Short Action Customs and talk with Mark Gordon (probably anyone there be helpful). He--they--fixed a botched-up rifle of mine and did so timely, amiably, but most importantly, perfectly. I can't say enough about Short Action Customs. Again, if possible, put the past behind you (for now, that problem won't run away) and focus on making your upcoming elk hunt the best.
 
Just returned from seeing gunsmith at Bass Pro Shops in Springfield, MO. The sticky bolt is a Cerakote problem. The rails in the action have a thick layer of cerakote. He said the bolt scratches are where it is wearing away the cerakote. He said it will get better & to use some extra lube until then.
The feed issue was a simple fix. The Wyatt's box wasn't set right. It was cocked with the upper right hand corner sitting by the right side of feed rail.
The gunsmith should have given me a heads up about the sticky bolt. If he single fed when test firing he could have missed the feeding issue.
I'm keeping in mind that he was working in pain and trying to finish the job before his operation. He had neck vertebrae fused Thursday from an auto accident.
I couldn't count the times i've been in Bass Pro Shops and never realized they had full custom gunsmith services. My wife told me about it. I have been very worried about my 1st custom and want to thank everyone for their help. After the gunsmith heals we'll see about fine tuning the feeding.
Thanks Again, Lynn
 
Your handling of this agonizing conundrum is surely commendable. So too are all the comments: knowledgeable experienced and empathic too. In reading this dilemma I am reminded--as if I needed reminding--of a very similar situation I had. However, this is about your past experience. Given all the aforementioned sage counsel I'll focus on your upcoming elk adventure. Here's an idea: call Short Action Customs and talk with Mark Gordon (probably anyone there be helpful). He--they--fixed a botched-up rifle of mine and did so timely, amiably, but most importantly, perfectly. I can't say enough about Short Action Customs. Again, if possible, put the past behind you (for now, that problem won't run away) and focus on making your upcoming elk hunt the best.
Couldn't be better advice.....thanks. We're only here for a short time and need to enjoy every day!
 
I pulled barreled action to adjust the trigger pull. It's a Timney CE. A flat washer fell out behind the box and after 4 hours I couldn't get it to fit without the front of box cocking up next to action feed ramp. Finally gave up and took rifle to new smith. He's working the feed issue and is determined to get bolt working smooth. I would have been ok with the bolt wearing smooth over time, but new Smith is a perfectionist. He said he couldn't believe anyone would send out such sloppy work. I'm waiting until he finishes to find out what all was wrong.

I won't be surprised if when all is said and done I need a new action, bolt, & bottom metal.
 
Couldn't get new build rifle to feed. Took gun to 2nd gunsmith. Below are the problems identified and corrected. I'm not a gunsmith so I know my explanations will not be exactly as the gunsmith was explaining to me.

Problems identified & corrected by 2nd gunsmith. I'm explaining best I can. Understand I am not a gunsmith.

1. A lot of the problems were due to the sloppy cerakote application. Cerakote all in action including heavy coating on rails. The bolt also had to heavy a coating of cerakote. At the same time the cerakote covered sloppy work on the bolt where he cut extractor slot ( grinder marks which would never be seen due to cerakote)which was discovered as the 2nd gunsmith removed the cerakote.

2. Feed issues: the Wyatt's box had to be milled some to be compatible with the feed ramp. The box was also just floating without being secured. Pic's attached- the bottom pin on the Timney CE is 490 thou wide. The trigger guard width is 423 thou wide, so the bottom metal wasn't sitting down as far as it should. It was sitting on the pin. The Wyatt's box was not secured in the bottom metal recess. Gunsmith milled grooves in guard so it could be lowered over trigger pin. See pic- talking small distance just enough to engage box into recess.

3. Trigger issue: when safety was pushed into fire position it would not engage in the fire position. It just floated. The trigger was not compatible with the cut in the trigger guard. When 1st firing the gun after receiving it (single feed with sticky bolt) it did fire a couple of times when I wasn't expecting it to. I don't know whether or not this was due to safety not being "engaged" in the fire position. Sear engagement was adjusted to far & had to be adjusted.

4. Bolt stop: wasn't popping out to stop bolt due to heavy cerakoting. Bolt was just pulling straight out.

5. Asked how it got the cerakote off bolt. He said with a lot of _____ _______ work!

6. Front action screw: gunsmith shortened screw as it would touch bolt.

7. *Note: when 1st receiving rifle with me single feeding one round at a time working sticky bolt it shot a good group with 210 Berger's over a light load of 73.5 gr of H1000

Gunsmith that did original build was Dixie Precision Rifles. Gunsmith that did the work that needed correcting was Alton.
 
Like I stated earlier in this post, the first gunsmith should NEVER have let that rifle out of his shop! Unless he completely lost his mind, no health issue is an excuse for such shoddy work! If my health had declined that bad, I would have either; not accepted the project to begin with, or when I realized that I was going to be unable to properly complete the project, returned your rifle and money to you, along with an explanation and my deepest apology...
 
Like I stated earlier in this post, the first gunsmith should NEVER have let that rifle out of his shop! Unless he completely lost his mind, no health issue is an excuse for such shoddy work! If my health had declined that bad, I would have either; not accepted the project to begin with, or when I realized that I was going to be unable to properly complete the project, returned your rifle and money to you, along with an explanation and my deepest apology...
SMK, I truly wanted to give him the benefit of the doubt. Making a negative statement about someone's business is a serious matter. On the other hand, he told me he had shot it 20 - 30 times so if he tried to move the bolt handle one time he knew about the problems. I should have paid attention to the negative reviews on their FaceBook page. I'm still OK if it will shoot accurate. I'm going to start working up some loads for it. I am going to post reviews to help others avoid my experience. Thanks for advice and wishing you a wonderful day.
 
Like I stated earlier in this post, the first gunsmith should NEVER have let that rifle out of his shop! Unless he completely lost his mind, no health issue is an excuse for such shoddy work! If my health had declined that bad, I would have either; not accepted the project to begin with, or when I realized that I was going to be unable to properly complete the project, returned your rifle and money to you, along with an explanation and my deepest apology...
SMK, do you understand the trigger not engaging in the fire position. I picked up rifle at closing time and didn't want to push for explanation. He did explain it to me, but I'm guessing you really have to know how trigger works to understand. It is a Timney Calvin Elite. Thanks
 
I'd have to see the rifle in the stock, pull the action out of the stock and make a close examination of everything, to actually determine what is causing the problem. Anything else is just speculation, even if based on experience.

That being said, there are several things you can look at. Is the trigger or trigger housing making contact with the bottom metal or stock ANYWHERE? With Timney triggers, the front of the trigger often hits on the inside of the stock, unless the stock has been properly relieved. Any pressure on the trigger or trigger housing, from any source, could cause trigger malfunctions and probably accuracy problems as well. Another possible source of trigger problems, is the bolt and sear. If the bolt handle isn't dropping completely, or if Ceracote has gummed-up the sear, bolt shroud or firing pin assembly, you could experience any number of trigger failures.

I'd really need your rifle in hand to properly diagnose your rifle's trigger issue(s) and suggest any necessary repairs.

Didn't you have a second gunsmith look at your rifle? Did he not fix the trigger issue? A malfunctioning trigger renders any firearm useless until repaired. It is simply far too dangerous to even chamber a live round! If the trigger issue is still present, and I couldn't make the necessary repairs myself, I'd have a COMPETENT gunsmith repair and adjust it.

Hope this helps. Whatever you decide, make sure it gets repaired properly. Best wishes and good shooting.:)
 
Warning! This thread is more than 6 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top