littletoes
Well-Known Member
Ian, ever consider using some Warne basses with Burris Zee rings? What are your thoughts on this? Need the 30mm type for a Luppy.
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Ian M
Well-Known Member
Have to be honest with you and say that the Burris rings that fit onto Weaver bases do not impress me - don't like the tightening bolts but I could be wrong. They are not very heavy-duty, I would go with Warne Maximas in 30mm.
littletoes
Well-Known Member
I have the Dual Dovetail rings and basses from Leupold, in 30mm. Like how heavy the rings are, just don't like that the dovetails may wear with time. Havent had any problem yet, even after several heavy loads, so ya just got to love Luppy's warranty.
Digger49r
Active Member
I've got a question for Ian M.....I'm in North West Ontario....and our winters ain't any warmer than yours ....lol. I have been thinking that the only real place to shoot 1000 yds or better will be on the ice in the winter time. Do you change yours loads at all to make up for the "cooler" temps? I was wondering if you have to "heat" them up a bit. I've done a fair bit of hunting in the sub-artic and haven't noticed much difference in point of impact but most of my shooting has been well under 300 yds. Any help is appreciated ....Thanks
Ian M
Well-Known Member
Fact is we don't shoot much (if at all) during a tough winter, just no fun. We have been having pretty mild temps the last few years so have done some long shooting, just to get rid of the cabin fever.
When we did shoot long we did not have to make any adjustment for elevations due to the cold. We did not shoot in minus thirty type stuff, but shot several times in minus five or so. I like to shoot for three-four hours at a time so did not shoot in the real cold. If we have a mild winter with little snow there is no problem putting out targets and shooting prone from beside the vehicles to cut the wind. Shooting rocks isn't as good if there is a lot of snow, can't see bullet strikes. Honestly can't remember if we worked with bullet trace in the cold.
The ammo cools down but maybe because we shoot Varget the elevations were pretty much unchanged. We paint our steel plates orange in winter to get some contrast with the snow, they show up very nicely. Most of my plates are left orange on one side, white on the other.
When we did shoot long we did not have to make any adjustment for elevations due to the cold. We did not shoot in minus thirty type stuff, but shot several times in minus five or so. I like to shoot for three-four hours at a time so did not shoot in the real cold. If we have a mild winter with little snow there is no problem putting out targets and shooting prone from beside the vehicles to cut the wind. Shooting rocks isn't as good if there is a lot of snow, can't see bullet strikes. Honestly can't remember if we worked with bullet trace in the cold.
The ammo cools down but maybe because we shoot Varget the elevations were pretty much unchanged. We paint our steel plates orange in winter to get some contrast with the snow, they show up very nicely. Most of my plates are left orange on one side, white on the other.
tomahawk #1
Active Member
i see you have found the place digger
welcome aboard buddy
welcome aboard buddy
o.k. folks i know i am opening a can of worms here, BUT as far as i can tell nobody is talking about loading equipment.
presses, dies etc. is there such a thing as a LR friendly progressive press?
what is used. thanks for the help
presses, dies etc. is there such a thing as a LR friendly progressive press?
Halfbreed
I use a RCBS Big Max press it is a single stage press for sizing, then I use Wilson setting dies uses an arbor press. Powder I use a scale on all my LR loads. Priming I use a lee auto prime. I have a Dillon progressive I use for pistol or short range varmint cartridges.
Crow Mag
I use a RCBS Big Max press it is a single stage press for sizing, then I use Wilson setting dies uses an arbor press. Powder I use a scale on all my LR loads. Priming I use a lee auto prime. I have a Dillon progressive I use for pistol or short range varmint cartridges.
Crow Mag
nwcook
Member
Ian,
Liked what you said for guys starting out. I'm looking for advice. Heres' my situation. Have a Howa 1500 Lighting in .223 w/SS heavy barrel. Looking to do some bench/target shooting and varmints to 300 yds. If I get as good as I hope maybe even try some longer range stuff.
If I can keep my scope costs including rings/mounts under $900 I'd be happy. What do you suggest.
Any help is appreciated.
Wayne
Liked what you said for guys starting out. I'm looking for advice. Heres' my situation. Have a Howa 1500 Lighting in .223 w/SS heavy barrel. Looking to do some bench/target shooting and varmints to 300 yds. If I get as good as I hope maybe even try some longer range stuff.
If I can keep my scope costs including rings/mounts under $900 I'd be happy. What do you suggest.
Any help is appreciated.
Wayne
littletoes
Well-Known Member
Howa has a recall on there 1500 and others. Will look up the web site if you want me to. Bought one for my dad several years ago. Its some work on the bolt.
?? Can I use my factory rifles for "long range" shooting? Maybe a better way to ask the question is this-
I have a Ruger Model 77 in .243, a Ruger Model 77 in 6mm, and a Remington Model 700 in .270. The only one that has a decent scope is my .270. It has a Leupold 3.5 x 10 x 50 Vari-X III mounted on it. I need to change the rings as the scope is very close to touching the barrel. It may even be touching. The reticle in the Leupold is a standard duplex reticle. The .243 and 6mm are actually my two sons rifles. The scopes on them were significanlty cheaper as they tend to destroy most things that they touch
(They aren't that bad but I wasn't going to bolt a $300-$400 scope on their rifles).
So- with what I have listed- do I have a starting spot or would I be better off with something else?
I have a Ruger Model 77 in .243, a Ruger Model 77 in 6mm, and a Remington Model 700 in .270. The only one that has a decent scope is my .270. It has a Leupold 3.5 x 10 x 50 Vari-X III mounted on it. I need to change the rings as the scope is very close to touching the barrel. It may even be touching. The reticle in the Leupold is a standard duplex reticle. The .243 and 6mm are actually my two sons rifles. The scopes on them were significanlty cheaper as they tend to destroy most things that they touch
So- with what I have listed- do I have a starting spot or would I be better off with something else?
Ian M
Well-Known Member
Wayne,
Just back from a hunting trip so have not been on this site for several days. One scope that we have mentioned a lot in the past that would be very interesting for your .223 is the Bushnell 3200 10x Tactical. This scope is very reasonably priced (190 dollars or so) and has performed well on several rifles that I use and friends own. It is not a Nightforce, but it is sharp and bright and the turrets work properly. I would put it into some Warne Maximas on steel Warne bases and you would be good to go.
There are several good moderate to medium priced scopes, the 3200 is sort of a sleeper as it is so moderately priced. Nikon also has some pretty good scopes with turrets, and also I have a great Burris Signature 3-9 that is very reliable, has good brightness and definition. Can't go wrong with Leupold, the more money you spend the better as the Vari X 111's are definitely better scopes than their low-enders. They make a Vari-X11 tactical with nice turrets that would be nice on a .223.
Bottom line is that the really high performance scopes are not cheap, but they are worth the money in reliablity, repeatability, optical qualities and warrantee backup.
Guys here suggest spending about the same $ on your scope/mounts as you did on the rifle. The 3200 lets you beat that usually.
Good luck on your scope decision.
Just back from a hunting trip so have not been on this site for several days. One scope that we have mentioned a lot in the past that would be very interesting for your .223 is the Bushnell 3200 10x Tactical. This scope is very reasonably priced (190 dollars or so) and has performed well on several rifles that I use and friends own. It is not a Nightforce, but it is sharp and bright and the turrets work properly. I would put it into some Warne Maximas on steel Warne bases and you would be good to go.
There are several good moderate to medium priced scopes, the 3200 is sort of a sleeper as it is so moderately priced. Nikon also has some pretty good scopes with turrets, and also I have a great Burris Signature 3-9 that is very reliable, has good brightness and definition. Can't go wrong with Leupold, the more money you spend the better as the Vari X 111's are definitely better scopes than their low-enders. They make a Vari-X11 tactical with nice turrets that would be nice on a .223.
Bottom line is that the really high performance scopes are not cheap, but they are worth the money in reliablity, repeatability, optical qualities and warrantee backup.
Guys here suggest spending about the same $ on your scope/mounts as you did on the rifle. The 3200 lets you beat that usually.
Good luck on your scope decision.
Mysticplayer
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2001
- Messages
- 1,459
I'll second IanM's opinion of the 10X Elite 3200. Very impressed with mine. Great turrents and reticle. Decent optics and so far no problems. Also, comes with 80 min of elevation which is more then most scopes at any price. For the money, it is a great buy. Now if they made this in a 4200 series...
My experience with the Burris Sig Zee rings has been very positive. I have found the rings to make scope centering or shimming very easy. Will allow you to tilt the scope up to 30 min of additional elevation. I have removed and installed the rings many times and they work well. An added bonus, the way they tighten up allows them to keep their zero when reinstalled (pretty close anyways).
The best part of these rings is that they ensure that any misalignment in the bases does not put stress on the scope tube. A big plus when shimming bases.
For a newbie rig, I would suggest the Savage 110 with the heavy fluted barrel and lam stock. Cal either the 308 or win mag. The ELite 10X scope and Burris rings. With a little tweaking, this rig should be 3/4MOA or under. Total cost would be well under $1000 including reloading components enough to get some serious practise.
The Win Coyote or Tikka would be another choice.
My two cents worth...
Jerry
My experience with the Burris Sig Zee rings has been very positive. I have found the rings to make scope centering or shimming very easy. Will allow you to tilt the scope up to 30 min of additional elevation. I have removed and installed the rings many times and they work well. An added bonus, the way they tighten up allows them to keep their zero when reinstalled (pretty close anyways).
The best part of these rings is that they ensure that any misalignment in the bases does not put stress on the scope tube. A big plus when shimming bases.
For a newbie rig, I would suggest the Savage 110 with the heavy fluted barrel and lam stock. Cal either the 308 or win mag. The ELite 10X scope and Burris rings. With a little tweaking, this rig should be 3/4MOA or under. Total cost would be well under $1000 including reloading components enough to get some serious practise.
The Win Coyote or Tikka would be another choice.
My two cents worth...
Jerry
littletoes
Well-Known Member
Hey Jerry, you like the Coyote better than the Stealth?
