Forget your hornady tool. Do this -
It still works with a crf or savage type action, but requires more careful feel, and generally gets you + - .005" vs exactly.
Best I've seen too and simple ...saved me time looking for it Cody.... thanks
Forget your hornady tool. Do this -
It still works with a crf or savage type action, but requires more careful feel, and generally gets you + - .005" vs exactly.
This forum is like a masters class in reloading. I have been doing this 40 years and I am constantly in awe of some next level insight given herein.Also you're an only an idiot if you do not ask for help!!
Been there - done that. Mine was on 5.56 rounds. I rotated the turret the wrong direction. Don't delete the post matthaias, we can all learn from mistakes.338 dude, thank you for the vote of confidence that I am not an idiot. However you might change your tune after I confess what was going wrong. I was improperly setting my bullet seating die and crushing the shoulder on the case. I realized when I switched to my 300WM in Norma brass, and the shoulder deformation was very pronounced. I switched back to my 7RM dies and loaded a round (with the seater die correctly set up) at 0.010" off the lands as measured with the OAL gauge, and sure enough it chambers and ejects no resistance.
Thank you for the help everybody, that was fairly embarrassing! Should I delete this thread, or might it be helpful for other first-time reloaders?
I use machinist's dye rather than a Sharpie. I have red, blue dye and Sharpies in house.I would not mess with your chamber just yet I have had problems that sound a lot like yours where they modified case does not very closely resemble my chamber therefore when you use your own cases your bolt does not close you know if it's your bullet or the case take a black sharpie color your bullet put it in action and try to close the bolt remove the bullet and look for marks on the bullet if you have a 5R barrel you'll seeFive distinct marks where it remove the black from the bullet if it is not touching the bullet it is definitely the brass I do not use the Hornady modified case anymore I would have one made from a fired piece of brass from my chamber or just use the colored bullet Mark method load the boat Long chamber confirm Marks then seat the bullet .001 deeper color it again chamber it look for Marks keep doing this until you do not have marks that +.001 is your touch measurement
Just make sure you pronounce it "Shar-pae'" for added swankiness at Reloading cocktail parties!Smoke from a candle ,lighter or what i use is a black sharpie
That's what alcohol is for.I forgot to mention that I loaded 300 rounds before I found out what I did.
Leave it. Some one else could be doing the same thing. I'm at about 50/50% posting about my accomplishments and338 dude, thank you for the vote of confidence that I am not an idiot. However you might change your tune after I confess what was going wrong. I was improperly setting my bullet seating die and crushing the shoulder on the case. I realized when I switched to my 300WM in Norma brass, and the shoulder deformation was very pronounced. I switched back to my 7RM dies and loaded a round (with the seater die correctly set up) at 0.010" off the lands as measured with the OAL gauge, and sure enough it chambers and ejects no resistance.
Thank you for the help everybody, that was fairly embarrassing! Should I delete this thread, or might it be helpful for other first-time reloaders?
I do keep the Remy Martin Cognac stored with the gun powder, but I don't use them together. The Cognac makes the gunpowder seem cheap.That's what alcohol is for.