FatBoy...
Well-Known Member
Re: I can\'t believe this
When I set up my rings, I too push both forward as far as they'll go in the slot. Why not take advantage of a built on recoil lug? I then finger tighten the 1/4" bolt and set the lapping bar in the lower halves and press it down a bit. The I tighten the 1/4 bolts to 65in lbs each with slight pressure on the bar. The cleat on the lower ring is bevelled, and will pull the ring up and into the base dovetail, seating it where it's going to seat.
Now the rings are about true (probably more than acceptable with badgers) but to meet Nightforces' warrenty requirements I lap the rings for the NXS. I find the Sincliars lapping kit to be fine, and easily lapped the lower halves in about 5 minutes the first time. Each subsiquent time it's taken two or three passes to ensure they're still strait and I re-blue and drive on. I've never done MkIV rings, but here the older cast one are much harder to lap.
I originally took the lowers to 100% and the uppers to 50% lapped. I won't do it again. I think that Brent is spot on, and the uppers are pretty much along for the ride unless the ring screws bind and twist the cap or the cap contacts the lower,, both bad juju IMHO. Now it's 70% on the lowers,, none on the uppers unless I see something I don't like.
I have a set of max-50's with a M3LR in it that have never been lapped. Scope has been in and out a few times, and the scopes/ring combo has been on and off several times. Always returns to zero and no ring marks at all. That's ben my expierence with each of my badger set ups, and now all but one of my scoped rifles have badger bases to aid in scope swaps. Quality pays for itself.
Premier sells a nice in lbs torque screw driver for doing ring caps, (2 in lbs to 25 in lbs) but she's not cheap at over $100. I use the supplied tool and tighten the ring screws with the small end of the tool in my fingers. This keeps me from overtorquing (so far at least).
FatBoy...
When I set up my rings, I too push both forward as far as they'll go in the slot. Why not take advantage of a built on recoil lug? I then finger tighten the 1/4" bolt and set the lapping bar in the lower halves and press it down a bit. The I tighten the 1/4 bolts to 65in lbs each with slight pressure on the bar. The cleat on the lower ring is bevelled, and will pull the ring up and into the base dovetail, seating it where it's going to seat.
Now the rings are about true (probably more than acceptable with badgers) but to meet Nightforces' warrenty requirements I lap the rings for the NXS. I find the Sincliars lapping kit to be fine, and easily lapped the lower halves in about 5 minutes the first time. Each subsiquent time it's taken two or three passes to ensure they're still strait and I re-blue and drive on. I've never done MkIV rings, but here the older cast one are much harder to lap.
I originally took the lowers to 100% and the uppers to 50% lapped. I won't do it again. I think that Brent is spot on, and the uppers are pretty much along for the ride unless the ring screws bind and twist the cap or the cap contacts the lower,, both bad juju IMHO. Now it's 70% on the lowers,, none on the uppers unless I see something I don't like.
I have a set of max-50's with a M3LR in it that have never been lapped. Scope has been in and out a few times, and the scopes/ring combo has been on and off several times. Always returns to zero and no ring marks at all. That's ben my expierence with each of my badger set ups, and now all but one of my scoped rifles have badger bases to aid in scope swaps. Quality pays for itself.
Premier sells a nice in lbs torque screw driver for doing ring caps, (2 in lbs to 25 in lbs) but she's not cheap at over $100. I use the supplied tool and tighten the ring screws with the small end of the tool in my fingers. This keeps me from overtorquing (so far at least).
FatBoy...
