Hunting = cold bore shots

Define cold bore, in order to impart understandable meaning to this thread.
1) First shot from a fouled cold bore with powder and copper fouling residual in the bore from the prior firing of the gun, or
2) First shot from a clean cold bore, with powder, carbon, and copper fouling removed by thorough cleaning of the bore.

I think most rifles print their first shot to an altered POI under first cold bore shot #2 definition. I've recorded many MVs over the past decade and they are most commonly significantly different from the first cold clean bore shot, compared to the following bullets fired from the fouled bore, whether the fouled bore is cold or warm. The fouling affects the MV.
That change in MV alone could often cause the differing POI on the first shot shot from a cold, cleaned bore.
 
phorwath,
You have correctly described the clean, cold bore shot POI problem.

Shane,
Yep, I hate leaving my barrels fouled so they all get cleaned for carbon and printer residue each time after I shoot and cleaned for copper fouling each 100 rounds W/O HBN and 200 rounds with HBN.
It's a PITA re-fouling copper in a barrel but to regain top accuracy in most barrels requires a "re-coppering". YA can have too much copper and to little. It's a balance.

Here again HBN seems to reduce copper fouling in my experience.

Eric B.
 
In my experience with factory barrels the more you shoot them, polishing out the peaks and valleys left in the barrel, the less they shift on clean bore shots.
When the accuracy does degrade I will run a wet patch through followed by two or three dry ones to take the worst out but I don't really worry about cleaning it to death unless the rifle is going to sit in the safe for an extended period of time
 
I used to think I had to shoot a fouling shot or two before I took a rifle hunting but have finally put that system to rest since I discovered the huge difference between the way a properly bedded rifle shot versus a rifle that wasn't properly bedded.

Of course you need to have an accurate rifle and good load for it first but my experience lately is that all my rifles that I've taken to my gunsmith for good bedding shoot to same point of aim almost all the time and when they don't it's usually the nut behind the trigger that's to blame... ;)

It's reached the point where I don't even shoot fouling shots when I shoot for group with some of my rifles. Some of my best groups I've shot this year included "fouling" shots from a cold and clean barrel.
 
Bull barrel. No issues out of my .264/6.5 Same zero.
Bull barrel on my precious .308. No issues. Same zero.
I run both dirty. Clean cold bore there are slight adjustments. But I keep mine dirty.
 
I think a quality barrel preferably cut not button or hammer forged should shoot clean i.e. Bartlein krieger proof. Clean barrel 1st shot i.e. Copper stripped may wander a bit but should come back quick. That would suck if you couldn't put your first three shots together cause your 1st shot cold flew. My2cents
 
In my experience with factory barrels the more you shoot them, polishing out the peaks and valleys left in the barrel, the less they shift on clean bore shots.
When the accuracy does degrade I will run a wet patch through followed by two or three dry ones to take the worst out but I don't really worry about cleaning it to death unless the rifle is going to sit in the safe for an extended period of time
AGREED ! and proper barrel "break in" helps to get the process that, Canhunter stated above, started. After Factory Rifle is test fired, I clean my barrels with Barnes C-10 then, POLISH the Throat and Lands with, 20 strokes of, JB bore cleaner on, a tight fitting patch, over a Bronze brush, using lots of JB's on the patch then, clean again, oil with Montana oil, then dry. My Tikka SS T3, .270 WSM Bore, shines like Chrome and shoots "cold bore" shots, dead center at 200 yards ! I leave the bore dirty and clean bbl after about 4-5 trips out to the Desert or, every 60-100 rounds. I always hunt with, a Fouled bbl.
 
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