got a 300 Win Mag 700 5-R Stainless Threaded Gen 2 came with a HS but did not like the size of the forearm. Replaced it with the Magpul plus for a few bucks more you can add removal able mag's . Big plus to me Liked it so much now I got a 700 Magpul in 308
HS PRECISION STOCK OFF 5R
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etisll40
Well-Known Member
I wonder if you can take the bedding block out and use pillars? HS is pretty decent quality, some people sand the palmswell a bit and custom paint the stock afterwards.
mason3379 I want to thank you for mentioning Grayboe stocks.
I contacted Ryan at Grayboe and told him I have a 300 weatherby mag that's a Vanguard action maybe Howa.
He said he did not have a stock in stock yet for the rifle I have but in 2 months it will be available.No metal bedding block in stock.He too said their stocks absord recoil and should make it an easy shooting rifle.The stock was quoted at 359.00
A lot better price than Manners.Manners would be lighter as they use carbon fiber to build the stock and then add fiberglass to finish it out.
That might just be my next stock.Thanks again.
Old Rooster
I contacted Ryan at Grayboe and told him I have a 300 weatherby mag that's a Vanguard action maybe Howa.
He said he did not have a stock in stock yet for the rifle I have but in 2 months it will be available.No metal bedding block in stock.He too said their stocks absord recoil and should make it an easy shooting rifle.The stock was quoted at 359.00
A lot better price than Manners.Manners would be lighter as they use carbon fiber to build the stock and then add fiberglass to finish it out.
That might just be my next stock.Thanks again.
Old Rooster
CAMPMEAT
Well-Known Member
In my opinion, a chassis system offers no advantage over a bedding block. Both can benefit from bedding.
CAMPMEAT
Well-Known Member
You don't need to bed a chassis at all. Torque down to specs and sequence.
I simply don't believe that is really completely true. The mating surface of a chassis isn't any different from the mating surface of a bedding block (or even a perfectly molded synthetic stock). Even if we assume that the precision of that mating surface might be absolutely totally perfect (which it probably isn't), I know for an absolute fact that the mating surface of the receiver isn't perfect at all and no two are the exactly the same.
Whenever two surfaces are screwed together where one or both surfaces are not perfect matches to each other, stresses are introduced. Those stresses are the bane of accuracy. The primary objective of a "PROPER BEDDING JOB" is to make the two surfaces a perfect match so that there are no stresses when the screws are tightened down.
I do believe that there will be situations where a perfect bedding block or a perfect chassis mated to a perfect receiver will result in a perfect fit, but this is not very common - probably less than one in a hundred.
I would invite you to solidly mount a dial indicator with thousandths graduations to the barrel of your rifle just beyond the end of the stock or chassis forend, and then position the indicator tip to make contact with the forend such that the indicator will show any relative movement between the two. Stand the rifle vertically on its butt plate, hold it by the stock only, and then alternately tighten and loosen each of the screws one at a time (one of the screws is always tight). Any movement in the indicator at all with either screw proves that there is stress in the bedding. Removing this stress by properly bedding the rifle is a good idea. The amount of movement is directly proportional to the quality of the bedding and the skill of the individual doing it. I try to achieve less than a half thousandth and will rebed the rifle as many times as necessary to achieve that.
Also, I know that there is the odd rifle that will shoot well even with stress, but that is the exception - not the rule.
Lastly, the accuracy of most rifles will improve with a proper stress free bedding job assuming the shooter and conditions are good enough to be able to take advantage of that improvement.
So, all that said, there is no question that properly bedding a rifle is not a job for the faint of heart. I've seen some bedding jobs that look worse than a gutt pile. For those who don't want to bed their rifle, a GOOD bedding block or a GOOD chassis is definitely the next best thing. I wouldn't say one is "inherently" better than the other though.
CAMPMEAT
Well-Known Member
Boy, that was a mouthful........
Ya, sorry about that. I am an old engineer and machinist so I tend to tell folks how to build a clock when they just asked for the time......
I'd really love to know how your chassis system checks out with a dial indicator though....
I'd really love to know how your chassis system checks out with a dial indicator though....
CAMPMEAT
Well-Known Member
I figured you were something like that. Well, you'll never know since I don't have one.
MPA, one if the largest chassis makers design their contact surfaces, and make the statement in their literature that these surfaces may be bedded if necessary for a exact fit to the action. I have personally not found additional bedding to be necessary with my two MPA's and an MDT.
CAMPMEAT
Well-Known Member
I have 2 MDT LSS and a top dollar Killer-Innovations Orias Chassis. None of them the are bedded..
