How to remove this hand guard?

Chilidawg

Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2024
Messages
17
Location
Sandia Park NM
I need some advice. I want to remove the hand guard on this CLE upper. I have loosened the two small screws on the bottom of the tube and can take them out. I'm not sure if I'm looking at a jam nut over the barrel nut that I can back off with a spanner. CLE sells a spanner wrench to remove this tube so I'm guessing its a jam nut.
IMG_3517.jpg
 
I believe you're correct.

DPMS's version also has a reputation for needing heat to release the lock-tite.
 
I believe you're correct.

DPMS's version also has a reputation for needing heat to release the lock-tite.
I've seen the same comment about RRA using red loc-tite. I called Compass Lake Engineering who made the upper and they are sending the exact spanner wrench for that nut. They recently closed for public sales but were very nice about getting me the tool.
 
remove you gas block and tube first ,, before you do anything
Why! Does it have an A2 front sight? If the gas block fits inside the handguard there's no need to remove the gb and tube 1st. I'm wondering since it has only 2 screws in the bottom that the hg screws on and might have shims so it's tight? Just say'n cause it looks like this kind of barrel nut.

 
Why! Does it have an A2 front sight? If the gas block fits inside the handguard there's no need to remove the gb and tube 1st. I'm wondering since it has only 2 screws in the bottom that the hg screws on and might have shims so it's tight? Just say'n cause it looks like this kind of barrel nut.


Hello,
the reason to remove the gas block and tube is to make sure you don't damage it , or twist it in half .
by not knowing just how the handguard comes off . since most barrel nuts are in 35 to 60 foot pound range
if you take out any set screws and if you apply heat and twist in some cases, you can unscrew the whole unit
tube and barrel nut , and if it does then you may twist the tube or break it in half as the tube goes through the
upper almost 1.5 to 2 inches . and if it does come loose as 1 unit the tube will keep it from coming loose
so, remove it if you are not sure how things comes a part. it only take a few minutes to remove two gas tube screws
and remove the block /tube , or push a 1/8 pen out .
TS2
 
OP here. Thanks for the good comments. Its a Compass Lake Engineering heavy barrel upper with the varmint handguard (22 Nosler by the way). I am pretty sure it has a YHM-style jam nut over the barrel nut. I have the proper wrench to remove the jam nut. I'll go ahead and take the gas block off first.

I'm replacing the upper receiver with a CMT billet that matches the CMT lower I am putting together.
 
Hello,
the reason to remove the gas block and tube is to make sure you don't damage it , or twist it in half .
by not knowing just how the handguard comes off . since most barrel nuts are in 35 to 60 foot pound range
if you take out any set screws and if you apply heat and twist in some cases, you can unscrew the whole unit
tube and barrel nut , and if it does then you may twist the tube or break it in half as the tube goes through the
upper almost 1.5 to 2 inches . and if it does come loose as 1 unit the tube will keep it from coming loose
so, remove it if you are not sure how things comes a part. it only take a few minutes to remove two gas tube screws
and remove the block /tube , or push a 1/8 pen out .
TS2
Without seeing where the gb is (in front or under the hg) you can't take it off before removing the hg.
 
Top