How to choose a bullet….data based decision…
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According to some people, bullet choice is NOT as important as shot placement...
tant-than-bullets.277715/
... so don't sweat it.
Rich Coyle
Well-Known Member
I pick what ever Hammer bullet Steve suggests.
MagnumManiac
Well-Known Member
I choose the bullet FIRST that I intend to hunt with, then I look at availability.
I cannot get Berger bullets in ANY of the calibre's I hunt with currently, so what I have is what I have.
After sorting bullets and a good supply, I then look through several sources of loading data and pick the top 3 powders that are mentioned the most. Then I cross reference this data with the bullet manufacturers data. If it agrees, I then proceed to test those powders.
I do not have access to the same array of powders as you guys in America, so my choices are limited.
Anyway, if a powder isn't satisfactory, try another.
If a bullet isn't satisfactory after testing a few powders, then your rifle doesn't agree with it. I have only ever experienced a bullet that wouldn't co-operate a few times and every time was with Barnes TSX in the early 90's.
Normally, a powder change is enough to get bullets shooting well, then you can fine tune by swapping primers and trying the same loads again.
Cheers.
I cannot get Berger bullets in ANY of the calibre's I hunt with currently, so what I have is what I have.
After sorting bullets and a good supply, I then look through several sources of loading data and pick the top 3 powders that are mentioned the most. Then I cross reference this data with the bullet manufacturers data. If it agrees, I then proceed to test those powders.
I do not have access to the same array of powders as you guys in America, so my choices are limited.
Anyway, if a powder isn't satisfactory, try another.
If a bullet isn't satisfactory after testing a few powders, then your rifle doesn't agree with it. I have only ever experienced a bullet that wouldn't co-operate a few times and every time was with Barnes TSX in the early 90's.
Normally, a powder change is enough to get bullets shooting well, then you can fine tune by swapping primers and trying the same loads again.
Cheers.
it's a combination of both accuracy and terminal performance. I'll run some numbers with that bullet at a velocity to see if it's meeting energy / FPS expectations at at the max range I want to be effective at. Im Gonna know pretty well at that point if it's something I want to move forward with or not
Then the load development starts and 1st and foremost it has to meet my accuracy expectations for the type of hunting / shooting I'm doing. If I can't get it
To shoot, then how it performs on game really isn't even in the equation.
Search this forum for a bit and you'll see thet folks are killing game with darn near every modern bullet in production from thin jacketed target / match bullets, hybrids. lead tips core lokts, bonded, to solid coppers etc etc and they all swear by what they're using and they're all killing animals.
Some better than others. If you can get a good killing bullet that meets your accuracy expectations Then your GTG.
memtb
Well-Known Member
The first step is go mono. Step #2, is to determine which mono! 
A good mono, will give you many more "good" bullet placement possibilities! 
memtb
A good mono, will give you many more "good" bullet placement possibilities! memtb
QuietTexan
Well-Known Member
Doesn't matter, pick whatever you like. Low odds it doesn't work in your rifle.
I'm feeling fancy this year so I'm going to use the latest and greatest bullet, but out of my oldest cartridge - some flavor of a Hammer from a 30-06. Last year it was the opposite, an old Partition from a fancy new 6.5 CM. Maybe one day I'll put something new and fancy into a new and fancy chambering, but then I'll probably end up with a 30-30 the next year.
I'm feeling fancy this year so I'm going to use the latest and greatest bullet, but out of my oldest cartridge - some flavor of a Hammer from a 30-06. Last year it was the opposite, an old Partition from a fancy new 6.5 CM. Maybe one day I'll put something new and fancy into a new and fancy chambering, but then I'll probably end up with a 30-30 the next year.
Jeffrey Van Zandt
Well-Known Member
I pick the bullet say a 215gr berger it worked well so then if I realy like it I then build a custom rifle around the bullet a custom twisted barrel with the best twist for that bullet
CONatureBoy
Well-Known Member
1. Define the types of quarry you intend to hunt (if you're choosing a bullet for hunting). Quarry type influences terminal-ballistics requirements. You wouldn't want to shoot a grizzly bear with a varminting bullet.
2. Decide what ranges you want to shoot at. Some bullets (e.g. flat-base target bullets) are extremely accurate at 100 yards, but perform poorly at 1,000 yards. Others really shine at long distances, but (supposedly) don't stabilize quickly. Long distances favor heavy-for-caliber bullets requiring a barrel with a fast twist rate. What "fast" means depends somewhat on the caliber, but usually means something around 1:8. For example, the 6.8 Western is designed around long-for-caliber 270 bullets, so it has a 1:8 SAAMI-spec twist rate. The more traditional 270 Winchester has a 1:10 SAAMI-spec twist for bullets of the same diameter.
3. Decide whether you want or need to hunt with a lead-free bullet. California and other places don't allow lead bullets. If so, you'll likely use "mono" bullets, i.e. solid-copper bullets. There are debates about how well these perform compared to cup-and-core etc. bullets with lead inside. (You can read these debates on this forum.)
4. Pick a hunting-bullet philosophy. Some folks believe in bullets having high penetration (Nosler Partitions and Accubonds represent two types of bullet construction that favor deep penetration), others believe in bullets that penetrate a few inches and then fragment violently (such as Berger bullets). (Another debate.)
5. Pick a single bullet that exemplifies everything you want along the above dimensions. Buy or build a rifle that is best suited to that bullet.
6. If you're handloading, try different components (powder, primer, case) and specifications (COAL, powder charge weight) to shoot that one bullet as accurately as you can.
You can vary the above procedure a bit to be a "one rifle hunter." (There's a thread on this forum on the subject, of course.) Faster twist rates can still shoot lighter-for-caliber bullets accurately (contrary to popular belief), and if you only hunt at high altitude, you can get away with a lower twist rate and still stabilize long-for-caliber bullets. For example, a 300 Win Mag with a 1:10 twist rate will shoot 165-grain bullets (really fast!) at antelope, 180-grain bullets at deer, and 220-grain bullets at elk. Then you have to choose three bullets for one rifle.
I build each of my rifles around one or two bullets. For big game I mostly design around heavy-for-caliber Berger hybrid hunters or VLDs: 156-grain EOL for a (1:7.5 twist) 264 Win Mag, 168-grain VLD for a 280 Rem (which I think of as a short/medium-range "woods gun"), 180-grain VLD for a 280 AI, and 210-grain VLD for a 300 RUM (which I'm changing over to a 1:9 twist barrel, so it shoots 230-grain bullets). I load for these rifles so they all have essentially the same drop chart out to 600 yards, which means I only have to remember one drop chart.
The above approach has given me eight rifle-bullet combinations I'm very happy with. All of my center-fire rifles shoot 1/3 MOA or better. The quarry mostly drop right where they're shot. Having the right bullet for the quarry and distance is a real confidence builder.
2. Decide what ranges you want to shoot at. Some bullets (e.g. flat-base target bullets) are extremely accurate at 100 yards, but perform poorly at 1,000 yards. Others really shine at long distances, but (supposedly) don't stabilize quickly. Long distances favor heavy-for-caliber bullets requiring a barrel with a fast twist rate. What "fast" means depends somewhat on the caliber, but usually means something around 1:8. For example, the 6.8 Western is designed around long-for-caliber 270 bullets, so it has a 1:8 SAAMI-spec twist rate. The more traditional 270 Winchester has a 1:10 SAAMI-spec twist for bullets of the same diameter.
3. Decide whether you want or need to hunt with a lead-free bullet. California and other places don't allow lead bullets. If so, you'll likely use "mono" bullets, i.e. solid-copper bullets. There are debates about how well these perform compared to cup-and-core etc. bullets with lead inside. (You can read these debates on this forum.)
4. Pick a hunting-bullet philosophy. Some folks believe in bullets having high penetration (Nosler Partitions and Accubonds represent two types of bullet construction that favor deep penetration), others believe in bullets that penetrate a few inches and then fragment violently (such as Berger bullets). (Another debate.)
5. Pick a single bullet that exemplifies everything you want along the above dimensions. Buy or build a rifle that is best suited to that bullet.
6. If you're handloading, try different components (powder, primer, case) and specifications (COAL, powder charge weight) to shoot that one bullet as accurately as you can.
You can vary the above procedure a bit to be a "one rifle hunter." (There's a thread on this forum on the subject, of course.) Faster twist rates can still shoot lighter-for-caliber bullets accurately (contrary to popular belief), and if you only hunt at high altitude, you can get away with a lower twist rate and still stabilize long-for-caliber bullets. For example, a 300 Win Mag with a 1:10 twist rate will shoot 165-grain bullets (really fast!) at antelope, 180-grain bullets at deer, and 220-grain bullets at elk. Then you have to choose three bullets for one rifle.
I build each of my rifles around one or two bullets. For big game I mostly design around heavy-for-caliber Berger hybrid hunters or VLDs: 156-grain EOL for a (1:7.5 twist) 264 Win Mag, 168-grain VLD for a 280 Rem (which I think of as a short/medium-range "woods gun"), 180-grain VLD for a 280 AI, and 210-grain VLD for a 300 RUM (which I'm changing over to a 1:9 twist barrel, so it shoots 230-grain bullets). I load for these rifles so they all have essentially the same drop chart out to 600 yards, which means I only have to remember one drop chart.
The above approach has given me eight rifle-bullet combinations I'm very happy with. All of my center-fire rifles shoot 1/3 MOA or better. The quarry mostly drop right where they're shot. Having the right bullet for the quarry and distance is a real confidence builder.
I first determine WHAT I will be shooting. Paper, thin skinned game, heavy game, dangerous game...., then what my longest shot could be either dictated by terrain or my own self imposed limit. Almost all bullet manufacturers publish numbers on their recommended velocities where the bullet hits the game for the bullet to expand/perform at its best. There are a number of ballistics programs on line that will give you that terminal velocity at the range you select. That terminal velocity starts at a much higher initial velocity. Can I get that kind of velocity out of my rifle, my hand loads. Know the twist rate of your barrel. If you bought it new the twist rate is very likely what the rifle manufacturer says it is. If you bought it used inspect the barrel carefully to see if it is a custom replacement barrel, The twist rate could very likely be different than the original manufacturers barrel. Why is twist rate important? If you start to lean toward mono bullets, like Hammers or Bergers they require a faster twist rate in order to stabilize. If you fire those in a slower twist rate barrel your accuracy will be pretty much non-existent. Get the twist rate right and they work like a charm. For hunting I always shoot heavy for caliber bullets. For example in my .243win normal offerings are in the 80-90gr range. I shoot 100gr or 105gr. In my 30-06 I shoot 165gr to 180gr, in my .270win I shoot 150gr. I prefer the downrange retained energy of the heavier projectile. Early in my reloading adventures I decided on Sierra Grand Slams. I did not have a chronograph back then. In 30-06 I shot at a black bear 3 times through the ribs. The bear slowed a bit but kept going. A buddy shooting a 1949 Winchester lever action with 1953 Super-X ammo finished it off. An autopsy showed my three shots hit where I was aiming but they passed clean through, pencil sized entry and exit except for one that nicked a rib on exit and it yawed a bit. A swore off Grand Slams at that point. I later found that I didn't have the velocity necessary for expansion at the range I shot at. I found Swift A-frames to be awesome but they became scarce. My final choice was Noslers. Partitions then later the AccuBond Long Range flavor.
I first look at the published ballistics of whatever bullet weight I'm considering...and why I'm considering it. Loaddata. Com is a terrific resource...It lists just about every bullet/caliber and powders known to work for each combo. Find your cal,find the weight you think you want, find the powders listed and check availability, gives you velocities of course as well...then I buy and try!
Go to ballisticstudies.com and the cartridge knowledge base. Nathan Foster that developed it has killed over 8,000 game animals in hunting and culling feral species. He performs terminal ballistics autopsy and has published a book on findings, and the online knowledge base is comprehensive on factory bullets and reloading bullets. He anneals Berger bullet tips to help them open up better at extreme range and he prefers frangible bullets for disruption of the central nervous system. The blog site is good too.
It's pretty awesome having such a large pool of experience to pull from on this forum. More than one way to skin a cat. It's nice to be able to read through and see other folks points of view.
I think we're pretty fortunate with the quality bullets selection available to us today It's pretty hard to find a "bad" bullet. They all have their limitations Ask for opinions just here on this forum and you'll see just how many bullets people are using with success. From thin jacketed "target" bullets like the SMK's, TMK's, Target, Hybrid, and Hunting VLD's, ELDM's, ELDX's, AMAX, Scenars, to classic OG hunting projectiles like the Core Lokts, the Nosler Partitikns and Accubonds, and now the solid Hammers, Bulldozers, and Cayugas, Barnes LRX, TSX and TTSX's.
Compromises will be made either by sacrificing a little terminal performance in favor or external performance or Vice versa depending on the individual shooters capabilities and type of hunting.
Everybody has their own preference and opinions based on their individual experiences. As with everything, you should be aware of the limitations of the equipment you're using and work within them.
I think we're pretty fortunate with the quality bullets selection available to us today It's pretty hard to find a "bad" bullet. They all have their limitations Ask for opinions just here on this forum and you'll see just how many bullets people are using with success. From thin jacketed "target" bullets like the SMK's, TMK's, Target, Hybrid, and Hunting VLD's, ELDM's, ELDX's, AMAX, Scenars, to classic OG hunting projectiles like the Core Lokts, the Nosler Partitikns and Accubonds, and now the solid Hammers, Bulldozers, and Cayugas, Barnes LRX, TSX and TTSX's.
Compromises will be made either by sacrificing a little terminal performance in favor or external performance or Vice versa depending on the individual shooters capabilities and type of hunting.
Everybody has their own preference and opinions based on their individual experiences. As with everything, you should be aware of the limitations of the equipment you're using and work within them.
Lot's of good info above, as said your intended purpose is the starting point
