How many MOA for base?

That is very good velocity?
My son uses 106 gr of Retumbo in the 378 case with a 30" 9 twist for about the same velocity.
110 gr of the old H570 will do about the same, but slightly better accuracy.



I'm using 102.5 grain of RL33 , with a 300 gr Berger hunting . I use Lapua Brass , and get 10 + reloading cycles on it . my barrel is a 30" 10 twist .
 
Have you ever done a side by side with other guns at say 1500?
I sure have . there are 5 of us that shoot together about every week . us guys with 30" bbls and using RL33 are all with in about 0.5 grains of powder , and all use about the same elevation corrections . I use 2939 FPS in my ballistic programs , and my sig 2400 rangefinder . it follows along very close out to 2375 yards . the farthest I've shot so far .

one guy uses H1000 and 300 grain A-tips , I'm not sure what he dials
 

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If you use a rail with half of your internal adjustment that will allow you to use the full travel of the scope upward.
 
Get the max mow you can that will still allow for your 200y zero.

you should be able To run a 40, this way you keep as much elevation in your scope and you can use your reticle for sub zero distance adjustments if needed.

just my 2 cents.
 
Well if were going to use the reticle, why not use a lower portion of it and dial from that without the tapered base.
No written law says we cant, and in fact it will work.
But our feeble minds can only handle so much complication.
 
Well if were going to use the reticle, why not use a lower portion of it and dial from that without the tapered base.
No written law says we cant, and in fact it will work.
But our feeble minds can only handle so much complication.
That would net you less adjustment/ hold, or something is lost in the translation here.
if you want more adjustment you could zero using a mark above the center of your scope and dial up and hold from there
 
That would net you less adjustment/ hold, or something is lost in the translation here.
if you want more adjustment you could zero using a mark above the center of your scope and dial up and hold from there
Carefull now, we all know or at least should know that down is up and up is down when dialing.
But when using the reticle as a hold, and dialing from that, the same dialing principle would apply, but were starting at a different point than if we used the center of the reticle.
But youve proven my point about the human mind.
 
I'm building a .338 Norma on a Remington action with a 28 inch Krieger barrel. I have an 1100 yard range and would like to be able to shoot a mile. Should I get the 20 minute or 30 minute base?
Thanks
Sometimes it really depends on the model-bell size, power(s), reticle scope you're using, mostly the reticle. Good luck
 
Carefull now, we all know or at least should know that down is up and up is down when dialing.
But when using the reticle as a hold, and dialing from that, the same dialing principle would apply, but were starting at a different point than if we used the center of the reticle.
But youve proven my point about the human mind.
Ok I think I am lost in the fact that if you use a point lower in your scope to "zero" you effectively loose the same amount of hold as the elevation adjustment you potentially gained. The only way I can see around this is to use a base that is the equal (or close to) 1/2 the amount of internal elevation adjustment plus the amount of "downwards hold" and using the top of the reticle to zero. which should get you all your hold plus all the elevation adjustment.
 
Ok I think I am lost in the fact that if you use a point lower in your scope to "zero" you effectively loose the same amount of hold as the elevation adjustment you potentially gained. The only way I can see around this is to use a base that is the equal (or close to) 1/2 the amount of internal elevation adjustment plus the amount of "downwards hold" and using the top of the reticle to zero. which should get you all your hold plus all the elevation adjustment.
I didnt say use that as a zero.
But you can use that as a hold and dial from it.
I have several now very old Leupold scopes from before the time period (any) scopes other than the target types had dialing ability.
We would send them to Dick Thomas of Premier reticles for a reticle change to a programmed multi dot reticle out to 1000 yds.
They were/are very good as for being on at the various distances provided you dont change the load they were programed for.
So i know the lowest dot is 1000 yds, and i can just dial from that for longer shots now that i have target knobs on the scope.
The key of coarse is to know where you are to start with the reticle, and that requires shooting.
We didnt always have the ability to just order a tapered base or special scope rings the way it can be done today.
Because nobody was making them 30 years ago.
You had to learn to improvise, and frankly it wasent a bad thing.
 
I ran a 30 MoA base on my Edge, could've done with a 40 MoA base like my 338-416 Rigby Improved 45°. This was difficult to do 10 years ago due to my platform choice being a CZ550 S
I run a 20 MoA on both of my F-class rifles, in 264WM and 300WM, but I run 30 MoA bases on my 6.5x47 and 22-250AI.

I think a 30 MoA base would serve you better, if like me, I prefer a 300 meter zero.

Cheers.
 
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