Trickymissfit
Well-Known Member
**Powder measurers are simply powder dumpers with a few exceptons (as in very). The best buy in powder measurers is the Lyman #55 without a single after thought (also cheap). Find a good U.S.A. made one, and get the Sinclair bottle adapter and a couple of his drop tubes. None of them do stick powders all that well, so you'll need to learn to use a powder trickler. I use an RCBS. On the other end of the scale the best are the Harrells, Niel Jones, and the Sinclair. I doubt you'll benifit from them. Still if you just have to have one then look no further than a Harrell.
**Presses can be divided into three types, and all three still do the same job. There's the C frame press, the O frame press, and the Forster style. You need to think about what's in your game plan. Are you just gonna load hand gun ammo? Or maybe big long rounds like a .378 Weatherby. Power is another factor to think about. Short hand gun ammo dosn't need a lot of powder to size the rounds, but on the otherhand big long cases like a 45-70 do need that kind of power. The average guy loads less than 300 rounds a year, and you may also fall into that bracket. C framed presses tend to flex a lot under pressure, but are fine for hand gun ammo (.357 mag, 44 mag, etc). An O frame is much more rigid, but still shares a few of the same issues that the C frame has. Then there is the Forster type. Big and very powerfull to start out with. Somewhat expensive (usually around $260), but the design will lend it to last a couple lifetimes. Also the straitest and squarest press made. But do you need this? The average guy can do nicely with a plain jane Lee cast iron press if you ask me. I've been known to do some serious case forming in the past, plus do some of those long strait walled cases that tax the press so hard. I went with the Forster design (mine is not a Forster but actually a Bananza). I also have a small RCBS press setting right beside it to do some odd jobs that are a PIA in the other.
Buying a used press can be a crap shoot! I wouldn't be afraid to buy a used Forster due to their design. But the others demand very close inspection. And really for the price you just can't beat the Lee.
** Dies! We live and die by the dies we buy. I use mostly Forster anymore, but have a few sets of Reddings and a few RCBS and a couple Hornaday sets. The best hand gun dies I've ever used were Lyman M series dies. Forster designed the best seater made, and now has been copied by Redding and a third more cash input. Sizing dies are interesting, but most all are really similar. If you use a full length die, the bodies are all similar. The Forster stem setup is different, and may or may not give you a few tenths better concentricity. Reddings are nice, but grossly over priced. Plus they are really no more accurate than some of the others. Others on this board swear by the Lee Collet die. Jury's still out at my house. I would use the Forster seater with whatever sizing die fit my needs. I don't recommend neck sizing for a novice (neck turning as well).
** You'll need a scale. Most guys on here like the RCBS 10-10. I had one once. I use nothing buy Pact electronic scales. You either like them or hate them. I own three if that matters much.
** I have a cigar box full of priming tools from past experiences. All the major players are in there. But I either use a K&M or the one on the back of the Forster press these days. The type of primer you prefer has a little bit to how you select a priming tool (I use most Federal)
** all case trimers are not made the same! The ones that come in kits are generally suspect from the start. A lot of guys like the older Forster style trimmer (can't remember what the call it). I use a Wilson 99.8% of the time anymore. Once again I've owned several trimmers in the past.
** Now we've got almost everything in front of us to load ammo, but is it anygood? There are all sorts of gauges out there these days, and I trust few of them. I built several over the years, and each got better. Now days I use two. A Neco and one I built that is very simple and very small). I use only wand type indicators as they are well known for their accuracey. 95% of us here could get by with the Neco and the .001" GEM indicator. I use a .0005" with mine, and rarely drag out a .0001" indicator.
** I'd also recommend buying the Hornaday case gauge setup. Used to be called a Stoney Point. Not perfect, but as good as most of us will ever want. And while your at it the Hornaday bullet puller is nice, and works quite well. You'll need one! The Hornaday setup will help you set your dies up in both head space and seating depth (actually make it a lot easier)
** loading manuals often are a crap shoot. You have to learn to take their loads apart. The Hogdon is my favorite, even though most loads are somewhat generic. I also use the AA manual a lot. The Hornaday is the most complete, but loads listed leave a little bit to be desired. I use the Sierra and Lee DVD's.
** your going to need a good pair of one inch mic's (don't buy the cheap Chinese ones!). A good caliper. I use mostly Starrett and Brown & Sharp. But use a Mitutoyo dial caliper at the range. All are 6" except for the Mitutoyo (4.25".
gary
**Presses can be divided into three types, and all three still do the same job. There's the C frame press, the O frame press, and the Forster style. You need to think about what's in your game plan. Are you just gonna load hand gun ammo? Or maybe big long rounds like a .378 Weatherby. Power is another factor to think about. Short hand gun ammo dosn't need a lot of powder to size the rounds, but on the otherhand big long cases like a 45-70 do need that kind of power. The average guy loads less than 300 rounds a year, and you may also fall into that bracket. C framed presses tend to flex a lot under pressure, but are fine for hand gun ammo (.357 mag, 44 mag, etc). An O frame is much more rigid, but still shares a few of the same issues that the C frame has. Then there is the Forster type. Big and very powerfull to start out with. Somewhat expensive (usually around $260), but the design will lend it to last a couple lifetimes. Also the straitest and squarest press made. But do you need this? The average guy can do nicely with a plain jane Lee cast iron press if you ask me. I've been known to do some serious case forming in the past, plus do some of those long strait walled cases that tax the press so hard. I went with the Forster design (mine is not a Forster but actually a Bananza). I also have a small RCBS press setting right beside it to do some odd jobs that are a PIA in the other.
Buying a used press can be a crap shoot! I wouldn't be afraid to buy a used Forster due to their design. But the others demand very close inspection. And really for the price you just can't beat the Lee.
** Dies! We live and die by the dies we buy. I use mostly Forster anymore, but have a few sets of Reddings and a few RCBS and a couple Hornaday sets. The best hand gun dies I've ever used were Lyman M series dies. Forster designed the best seater made, and now has been copied by Redding and a third more cash input. Sizing dies are interesting, but most all are really similar. If you use a full length die, the bodies are all similar. The Forster stem setup is different, and may or may not give you a few tenths better concentricity. Reddings are nice, but grossly over priced. Plus they are really no more accurate than some of the others. Others on this board swear by the Lee Collet die. Jury's still out at my house. I would use the Forster seater with whatever sizing die fit my needs. I don't recommend neck sizing for a novice (neck turning as well).
** You'll need a scale. Most guys on here like the RCBS 10-10. I had one once. I use nothing buy Pact electronic scales. You either like them or hate them. I own three if that matters much.
** I have a cigar box full of priming tools from past experiences. All the major players are in there. But I either use a K&M or the one on the back of the Forster press these days. The type of primer you prefer has a little bit to how you select a priming tool (I use most Federal)
** all case trimers are not made the same! The ones that come in kits are generally suspect from the start. A lot of guys like the older Forster style trimmer (can't remember what the call it). I use a Wilson 99.8% of the time anymore. Once again I've owned several trimmers in the past.
** Now we've got almost everything in front of us to load ammo, but is it anygood? There are all sorts of gauges out there these days, and I trust few of them. I built several over the years, and each got better. Now days I use two. A Neco and one I built that is very simple and very small). I use only wand type indicators as they are well known for their accuracey. 95% of us here could get by with the Neco and the .001" GEM indicator. I use a .0005" with mine, and rarely drag out a .0001" indicator.
** I'd also recommend buying the Hornaday case gauge setup. Used to be called a Stoney Point. Not perfect, but as good as most of us will ever want. And while your at it the Hornaday bullet puller is nice, and works quite well. You'll need one! The Hornaday setup will help you set your dies up in both head space and seating depth (actually make it a lot easier)
** loading manuals often are a crap shoot. You have to learn to take their loads apart. The Hogdon is my favorite, even though most loads are somewhat generic. I also use the AA manual a lot. The Hornaday is the most complete, but loads listed leave a little bit to be desired. I use the Sierra and Lee DVD's.
** your going to need a good pair of one inch mic's (don't buy the cheap Chinese ones!). A good caliper. I use mostly Starrett and Brown & Sharp. But use a Mitutoyo dial caliper at the range. All are 6" except for the Mitutoyo (4.25".
gary
