How do you: 1- range your target?, 2- aim your rifle?

JimD

Active Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2013
Messages
43
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Veteran Scopers,

Under 300 yards life is so simple isn't it?

Zero your scope to some nice Maximum Point Blank Range, walk around putting your crosshairs on stuff and shooting it.
(...or not depending on a few things, but you get my drift don't you?)

But over 300 yards it all gets a little more complicated.

For what it's worth I (me personally) am concerned about shooting in the 300 to 600 or 700 yard range.

So... in broad strokes, there's two things we have to do
1- determine the range of our target
2- somehow figure out how to "aim" the rifle to deliver the bullet on the target

So...

1-
How do you guys range your target?
Some sort of mil dot or m.o.a. ranging reticle?
Or... LASER rangefinder?
Are their other ways?

Then...

2-
How do you orient your rifle to that range?
Some sort of BDC reticle? Or HORUS type reticle?
Or we be dialing in values via the turrets?
Or...


Trying to think my way through some stuff here.
Thought I'd see if I could learn how you guys were doing these things.

Much obliged,

James


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For me, I....
Laser range finder. Taking readings all around the target also to make sure it's about right, and not a slight rise in the ground in front of the target or something silly.
Then I look at the shooter app for how much to dial.
I usually just hold for wind, unless target shooting, then I might dial. my scope has 2 moa markings.
 
For me, I....
Laser range finder. Taking readings all around the target also to make sure it's about right, and not a slight rise in the ground in front of the target or something silly.
Then I look at the shooter app for how much to dial.
I usually just hold for wind, unless target shooting, then I might dial. my scope has 2 moa markings.

nzr1,

Can you tell me about "shooter app" ?

Jim

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Yes. The link kindly posted.
Add it to your phone.
There are other apps that do the same thing, some even free.
But I would guess the shooter brand is most popular.
 
1. Quality Range Finder intended for long distance shooting
2. Depending on rifle I am using and the type of hunting I am doing. Either hold over or dial up. Most of my hunting scenarios won't stretch 600 yards. I practice hold over on all my hunting rigs. If time allows I prefer to dial up and in.
 
I use a rangefinder mostly and dial in the correct value on the scope. I make a MOA drop chart and tape them to my rifle stocks so when I either hunt or shoot long range for fun I'll just check range and look on my stock for the values then dial in. Other option is I use IStrelok app on my IPhone and enter the correct range and wind info into the app and it will print out your information on MOA / MIL and windage values to dial in.

Other option I also use to estimate range when I don't have a rangefinder is to use the hash marks on my MOAR reticles and off the top of my head I calculate using the formula ( just make sure the numbers are correct, lol ) or I use the MIL DOT Rangefinder app on the IPhone. You can use MOA or MILS on it. Just compare the number of hash marks on the scope and check the app and it tells you the range after you dial in the info then either use the drop chart on the stock or on IStrelok for MOA / MILS to dial in the scope.

I prefer the drop chart taped to my stock and a rangefinder, its quicker.

You can make your own MOA / MILS drop chart by using this: https://www.federalpremium.com/ballistics_calculator/

JMB is a great tool, check it out.

JBM - Calculations - Trajectory (Simplified)
More advanced JMB calculater:
JBM - Calculations - Trajectory
 
I use a range finder. Get a good one as this will be your limiting factor.

I prefer to dial. If there is not enough time to dial then I figure the shot was not a good one. I use an app in an ipod touch along with a drop chart taped to the stock.

Steve
 
range finder make's things easier.
My rifles are sighted in so the bullet never crosses my line of sight usually 100yards. So anything close or out at range I only have to aim high ( one less thing to worry about ).
Once sighted in I then test at varies ranges to find my actual drop then make a card showing drop and what adjustment I require, also test at same ranges in wind when possible but I just hold off for wind.
 
I started my long rsnge shooting years ago using Mildots for ranging. Holdover was accomplished using either Mildots or dialing. This was pretty effective on deer sized game out to 500 yards. For the last 6 years I have used a G7 Rangefinder programmed for my specific load. I then dial for elevation using tier turrets, and for windage using a MOA scaled horizontal reticle. This approach has proven to be extremely successful for me with a few dozen deer, antelope, and coyotes taken between 500 and 1200 yards.
 
I forgot to say that I shoot prone one way or another. I use shooting stix or backpack or both to set up the shot.

Steve
 
Leica 1600- Range it and get the angle. Plug these two figures into a Kestrel 4500 AB. It gives you the most accurate shooting solution available in moa. It also shows you the wind high and low solution. Dial elevation and wind and you are good to go. I also carry paper with drop,ranging, etc. written down in case of electronic fail.
 
I love the math behind subtension applications (multi-stadia reticles) and apply it some whilst shooting for fun. I have applied reticles rarely for ranging animals in the field besides testing on some big game animals whilst hunting coyotes mostly. I know others who have used my information in situations where the rangefinder would have been too slow, or whatever reason and they have had some success with it. Here is a couple youtubes I made on the info--

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iNvJKBOpj08

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ozEhoNaRi2s
 
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