Cfoxkennels
New Member
3 layers of MDF inside of a 1x4 frame (on edge 4th layer sets inside frame give a bench with great mass and an easily replaceable work surface
Homemade reloading benchtop material?
- Thread starter SavageHunter11
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Go to a local saw mill and get some wood planks. Done mine out of 2 1/2 inch walnut. Most saw mills u can get very good wood ant a responsible price. A lot cheaper than Lowe's or places like that. wood is very hard and looks good if stained.
ntsqd
Well-Known Member
If you're going to use a home store counter top be careful to get one that does not have the bulge at the front edge that most of them have. Makes mounting the press or presses much easier without that bulge!
jcbjr
Member
2x6 yellow pine glued and screwed to frame with 3/4" hardwood (oak, I think) plywood screwed (not glued) to that. You know, in case am elephant sits on it. I tend to overbuild, but it doesn't flex...
Do a little looking around and see if you can find a good old solid wood desk with upright cabinet top with drawers. I got a terrific medical desk /cabinet that you would have thought was designed solely for re-loaders...not chemists. The entire desk/cabinets weigh about 200+ lbs. Solid 1 1/2" wood. Find of a lifetime.
Windini
Member
I use a cheapish woodworker's bench similar to the HF one several here have already posted. (Sjobergs, I think) Mine came w/o drawers, so I built a simple box cabinet to fit below the top. I left 6" or so between the top of the cabinet & bottom of the bench as shelf space and so I could use the bench dogs & hold downs if I wanted.
I prefer something other than plywood for a top simply because the top layer of veneer is thin & prone to damage & excessive wear. If/when I build a 'nother ("It's never done; someone just comes and takes it away"), I will probably buy a solid wood countertop from IKEA. They can be had about 1-1/8" thick and are pretty affordable, especially if you live near enough to go pick it up & save shipping.
While i've certainly used framing lumber for legs & bases in the past, I've become more wary of the readily available stuff because the drying & storage is often sub-par. This leads to warping & twisting that translate to thinner benchtop materials. Remember, wood is hygroscopic & will always take on & give off moisture, so it will always move. Finishes & sealers will slow this down but never stop it completely. Mechanical fastening is good for assembly, but won't stop wood movement either. If the wood wants to move, it's gonna, and your screw or bolt usually just provides a good splitting point...
Plan accordingly, learn from experience, and accept the fact that you will likely build another bench - eventually! In the meantime, git 'er done and crank out some rounds.
I prefer something other than plywood for a top simply because the top layer of veneer is thin & prone to damage & excessive wear. If/when I build a 'nother ("It's never done; someone just comes and takes it away"), I will probably buy a solid wood countertop from IKEA. They can be had about 1-1/8" thick and are pretty affordable, especially if you live near enough to go pick it up & save shipping.
While i've certainly used framing lumber for legs & bases in the past, I've become more wary of the readily available stuff because the drying & storage is often sub-par. This leads to warping & twisting that translate to thinner benchtop materials. Remember, wood is hygroscopic & will always take on & give off moisture, so it will always move. Finishes & sealers will slow this down but never stop it completely. Mechanical fastening is good for assembly, but won't stop wood movement either. If the wood wants to move, it's gonna, and your screw or bolt usually just provides a good splitting point...
Plan accordingly, learn from experience, and accept the fact that you will likely build another bench - eventually! In the meantime, git 'er done and crank out some rounds.
redneckdan
Well-Known Member
Built my bench frame from 2x4s on 12" centers. Top is 3 layers 3/4" ply wood glued and screwed. Dimension is 24" x 96". Next bench will probably be 16" x 96". Less depth is less room to accumulate crap before I'm forced to clean it....
I pulled a chunk of bowling alley out of a dumpster for my current bench top. I used 1" plywood atop a 2x4 frame for my first bench and made sure I had 2X4's under my single stage RCBS press, and ran lag bolts down into them. I never had any issues for 10+ years.
your buddy is correct. Butcher block to is the way to go. I reload off of a 2" thick butcher block bench and it's solid.!
Mine is made out of 1" B/D plywood glued and screwed down on top of a 1/2" pressed wood piece. I built it from a heavy adjustable steel modular chassis work bench I bought from Home Depot and made the plywood top overhang in front so I can have access to the drawer below it. I have a 750 Dillon progressive with a Mr. Bullet bullet feeder and a RCBS Rockchucker single stage loader. In addition I also have RCBS case prepper, automatic and single power measures and scales and automatic case trimmer. The top is 48" x 28". Above it is a shelf with a shop light with LED 48"tubes and peg- board between the bench top and shelf. On the shelf top I keep my various powders and on a bottom shelf I keep my dies and cases. I keep my primers and tools in the drawer.
This top is more than stable as I have loaded everything from. 17-50BMG without any issues. Good luck with your build.
This top is more than stable as I have loaded everything from. 17-50BMG without any issues. Good luck with your build.
shawn mcjunkin
Well-Known Member
Dude Love that chair !!
Recoil Junkie
Well-Known Member
I found a metal fab shop and they cut me a piece of 1/4" thick steel plate for scrap cost. I can't remember exactly but it was around $50 for my bench top. It is 54" x by 28". I painted it Hemi Orange so things would stand out when laying on the bench and its an awesome color.
