Help with 30-30 reloading and zero

[Dean2]

You are loading for a 250 yard rifle, max, so don't over complicate it.. You do not want to lock up a lever gun, REALLY a pain in the rump to fix. Trajectory at 2000 or 2300 FPS isn't going to change much and wind drift is a non issue usually. Crimp your bullets so they stay put, use CCI 250 primers for load development, start at min, go up .5 in 3 round test batches. When you hit max published velocity STOP, also if you hit a velocity plateau where more powder keeps vel the same or it decreases, even if you are far from max charge. When you get to max book charge or any signs of pressure whatever, also stop, whichever occurs first. Best of luck.

 

[jumpmasterkolo]

You are loading for a 250 yard rifle, max, so don't over complicate it.. You do not want to lock up a lever gun, REALLY a pain in the rump to fix. Trajectory at 2000 or 2300 FPS isn't going to change much and wind drift is a non issue usually. Crimp your bullets so they stay put, use CCI 250 primers for load development, start at min, go up .5 in 3 round test batches. When you hit max published velocity STOP, also if you hit a velocity plateau where more powder keeps vel the same or it decreases, even if you are far from max charge. When you get to max book charge or any signs of pressure whatever, also stop, whichever occurs first. Best of luck.

Thanks Dean! I've got this horrible OCD side that wants all my guns to shoot like my 300 Weatherby and 6.5 PRC. I STILL single stage load my 300 blackout...I'm trying...Lord am I trying to relax and just knock it out without overcomplicating it.

 

[MagnumManiac]

You will NEVER see over pressure signs in a 30-30, just doesn't produce enough pressure.
If you see a hesitation while trying to open the lever, even if a tiny amount sticky, STOP right there and lower the charge ONE GRAIN. If the lever springs open, even a little upon firing, STOP, you have surpassed the safe limit for the gun, the action is springing.
If you see backed out primers, like my 1908/9 Winnie '94, then it has excessive headspace and you need to find brass with a thicker rim. It will just mean that when you size, only size enough that the brass goes back in firm, otherwise in 1-2 more firings you will get incipient case head separations.
As I said, ball powders work the best in the 30-30, bulky stick powders don't seem to work too well in my experience. H4895 left unburnt powder everywhere for me.

Cheers.

 

[Dean2]

You will NEVER see over pressure signs in a 30-30, just doesn't produce enough pressure.
If you see a hesitation while trying to open the lever, even if a tiny amount sticky, STOP right there and lower the charge ONE GRAIN. If the lever springs open, even a little upon firing, STOP, you have surpassed the safe limit for the gun, the action is springing.
If you see backed out primers, like my 1908/9 Winnie '94, then it has excessive headspace and you need to find brass with a thicker rim. It will just mean that when you size, only size enough that the brass goes back in firm, otherwise in 1-2 more firings you will get incipient case head separations.
As I said, ball powders work the best in the 30-30, bulky stick powders don't seem to work too well in my experience. H4895 left unburnt powder everywhere for me.

Cheers.

You have added a couple of great high pressure signs. I should have thought about those when I was posting. Good job!!

As far as un-burned powder, that is why I use magnum primers. 3031, Varget, 4895 all burn clean in a 20" barrel. With reg primers there is a lot of un-burned powder granules floating around. Same is true in the 45-70. Giuve it a try, you will like the results.

 

[MagnumManiac]

You have added a couple of great high pressure signs. I should have thought about those when I was posting. Good job!!

As far as un-burned powder, that is why I use magnum primers. 3031, Varget, 4895 all burn clean in a 20" barrel. With reg primers there is a lot of un-burned powder granules floating around. Same is true in the 45-70. Giuve it a try, you will like the results.

Use magnum primers anyway in my 30-30 with 760 powder, always have.

Cheers.

 

[mcnanysa]

Yep, just do a middle load to get it on paper, say 10 rounds.
When you say ladder test, at what range are you going to do this?
I just do OCW for rounds like the 30-30.
I do 3 rounds for each charge weight.

Cheers.

Okay... help me out... what's OCW? I've been told I've got OCD and ADD, so it only has to be perfect for a little bit, but I've never heard of OCW...

 

[MagnumManiac]

OCW is Optimum Charge Weight.
Two ways to accomplish this; fire 3-5 rounds per charge weight at 100. Do 1gr intervals or .5gr intervals, personal choice here. Smallest group is the optimum charge.
Shoot a round robin at 200 with half grain intervals, it's also known as a ladder test, but the one's I do at 600 do not mirror this.
Shoot to one aim point and when the optimum charges all group at the same elevation, then you have found a node.
TBH, I don't see this test being better than the above method.
All we're looking for is the best group essentially.

Cheers.