RuninL8
Well-Known Member
Dern, if you had you could measure your actual headspace, by simply adding scotch tape layers on he end of a go gauge. Handy trick.
headspace
- Thread starter crystalgayleguy
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Maximum chamber, head to datum is 1.2503" The minimun cartridge is 1.2364"
If the rifle has a maximum chamber & factory ammo is at the minimun, head clearance will be .0139" Brass would have case head separations under these conditions. May take more then 1 firing.
valsport05
Well-Known Member
If I am putting a used factory barrel on a factory action and don't have an internal action wrench nor torque specs, is putting a go gauge into the chamber and tightening until snug then testing with a no go gauge an appropriate/safe practice to install my barrel?
Is that a shouldered barrel or a barrel nut design?
valsport05
Well-Known Member
shouldered factory barrel
I would screw it on until it stops, tighten as much as seems appropriate. Consider 40-60lbs of torque or so is usually adequate, that's not a lot. Then try your gauge. If it's goes on the go and the no-go doesn't it's pretty good.
valsport05
Well-Known Member
Sounds like a plan. I'm just concerned that it seems the factory barreled action is so tight that they must be torqued down really tightly and that headspace may be difficult to duplicate on a garage bench. I will find out soon enough. Since its a factory-for-factory replacement I was concerned about the high-torque where I wouldn't with an aftermarket custom as I have seen info about their torque specs.
I wouldn't worry about that. I've taken a few Savages apart and they're torqued to line 120lbs from the factory but less than 60 is usually enough. Factory actions are typically overly tight.
valsport05
Well-Known Member
Thanks for sharing your experience @chav0_12 the action should be here in a couple days. Hoping it won't take an action wrench and that a large adjustable wrench will get proper purchase as its flat on both sides.
I'd just buy an action wrench and a barrel vise. They're not overly expensive and it'll make it worth it if you ever take the barrel and action apart again.
valsport05
Well-Known Member
I've got aluminum barrel vise jaws to use in my bench vise, the outside action wrench like Wheeler #1 and Brownells universal seem to be sold out everywhere. If one becomes available I'll go for it. I'm installing a used barrel so it probably won't be long that a re-barrel will be in the near future.
nksmfamjp
Well-Known Member
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- Jan 5, 2004
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This is basically the OP…..I'm not sure what 0.008" is. New brass is not set to min or max. I would bet it is set to min -0.000" to -0.003". Just a guess.
shortgrass
Well-Known Member
New brass is always smaller than minimum SAAMI spec. Hardened steel gages don't lie. Need to know exactly how much? Steel or brass shim stock stuck with a dab of light grease to the bolt end of the GO gage, it's available in varying thickness beginning with .001" on up.
Could be, but shouldn't be...
Thread crush is minimal when threads (internal and external) are within spec and barrel shoulder and receiver ring are perfectly concentric. There's usually only .001-.0015 crush.
When spinning the receiver onto the barrel, it should spin on smoothly then come to an abrupt and solid "stop" when the shoulder contacts the receiver ring- you can feel it when it's correct. If you have a barrel shoulder or receiver face (or both) that aren't concentric only a small portion of the barrel contacts the receiver face initially- then torque forces the rest into contact. This results in a lot more rotation, and decreasing headspace.
This is why getting fitment correct is critical if trying to get minimal (go +.001 max) headspace.
