Magnum72576
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Headspace adjustment with Shellholder??
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blinderthanascope
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I've never used nickel so I don't know, I would use 1 brass case that's all you need, have you measured your belt on the cases, is the belt galled or rubbing, do you have new brass or is this once fired from another gun if so that's your problem
blinderthanascope
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cases from other guns unless cut with same reamer will cause a nightmare
blinderthanascope
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make sure you haven't squirted your neck to long
bigedp51
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Magnum72576
Are you saying your sized cases will not chamber fully because the shoulder is not bumped back far enough during sizing.
Or is the resistance you are feeling caused because the case is rubbing just above the belt. Meaning the die did not reduce the case diameter enough just above the belt.
If you use a black felt tip marker and cover the case with the marker when you chamber the case you will see where it is rubbing.
Are you saying your sized cases will not chamber fully because the shoulder is not bumped back far enough during sizing.
Or is the resistance you are feeling caused because the case is rubbing just above the belt. Meaning the die did not reduce the case diameter enough just above the belt.
If you use a black felt tip marker and cover the case with the marker when you chamber the case you will see where it is rubbing.
Magnum72576
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The nickel cases are once fired from my gun by the builder. In the Broz video he shows how the bolt closing resistance decreases to almost none. Then he drops one size shell holder from there to get .002 headspace. I can't seem to get down to no resistance. I'm not familiar with measuring the belt.
Tony
Magnum72576
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I think I may have realized my error. The ejector is still in my bolt. I'm thinking this is supposed to be removed when feeling the resistance when closing the bolt. If so I guess I need to order another tool.
Tony
Tony
jimbires
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the ejector will push your brass forward , causing a false feeling . if I remember right , Alex also hooks the ejector on the brass before inserting the bolt .
bigedp51
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Magnum72576
You are going to far too much effort dissembling your bolt and "feeling" for resistance.
Just buy the Hornady cartridge case headspace gauge and measure several fired cases.
Then adjust you die for .001 to .002 shoulder bump and you are done.
The Hornady gauge eliminates "feel" and it gives you actual measurements in thousandths of an inch between the fired case and the properly sized case.
NOTE, if a case has unequal case wall thickness when fired the thin side of the case expands more. This in turn causes the case to warp with the base of the case tilted and no longer 90 degrees to the axis of the bore. The ejector pushes the case forward and away from the bolt face and with the proper shoulder bump the base of the case does not contact the bolt face.
Meaning if the case has a little wiggle room in the chamber any warping of the case is minimized and only the case shoulder is contacting the chamber.
Below is from the now shutdown "The Riflemans Journal" and where I first read the the "Case should fit the chamber like a rat turd in a violin case".
Reloading: Partial Neck Sizing
by German A. Salazar
http://riflemansjournal.blogspot.com/2010/06/reloading-partial-neck-sizing.html
"Now the last scenario, a full-length sized case in which the neck is also fully sized. There is clearance at the neck and in the body of the case, the closest fit anywhere is the bullet in the throat. If the neck to bullet concentricity is good (although it needn't be perfect), then the bullet will find good alignment in the throat and the case body and neck will have minimal influence. Let's not forget that the base of the case is supported by the bolt face or the extractor to a certain degree as well; this is yet another influence on alignment. As you can see, there are several points from base to bullet that can have an effect. My procedure is to minimize the influence of those that I can control, namely the case body and neck, and let the alignment be dictated by the fit of the bullet in the throat and to some extent by the bolt's support of the base. Barring a seriously out of square case head, I don't think the bolt can have a negative effect on alignment, only a slightly positive effect from minimizing "case droop" in the chamber. Given that a resized case will usually have a maximum of 0.001" diametrical clearance at the web, this isn't much of a factor anyway."
Below Kevin Thomas of Team Lapua USA who also believes in the Rat Turd in the Violin case.
Bottom line if you feel any resistance when closing the bolt on a loaded round you don't have enough wiggle room and the extra room for the rat turd.
You are going to far too much effort dissembling your bolt and "feeling" for resistance.
Just buy the Hornady cartridge case headspace gauge and measure several fired cases.
Then adjust you die for .001 to .002 shoulder bump and you are done.
The Hornady gauge eliminates "feel" and it gives you actual measurements in thousandths of an inch between the fired case and the properly sized case.
NOTE, if a case has unequal case wall thickness when fired the thin side of the case expands more. This in turn causes the case to warp with the base of the case tilted and no longer 90 degrees to the axis of the bore. The ejector pushes the case forward and away from the bolt face and with the proper shoulder bump the base of the case does not contact the bolt face.
Meaning if the case has a little wiggle room in the chamber any warping of the case is minimized and only the case shoulder is contacting the chamber.
Below is from the now shutdown "The Riflemans Journal" and where I first read the the "Case should fit the chamber like a rat turd in a violin case".
Reloading: Partial Neck Sizing
by German A. Salazar
http://riflemansjournal.blogspot.com/2010/06/reloading-partial-neck-sizing.html
"Now the last scenario, a full-length sized case in which the neck is also fully sized. There is clearance at the neck and in the body of the case, the closest fit anywhere is the bullet in the throat. If the neck to bullet concentricity is good (although it needn't be perfect), then the bullet will find good alignment in the throat and the case body and neck will have minimal influence. Let's not forget that the base of the case is supported by the bolt face or the extractor to a certain degree as well; this is yet another influence on alignment. As you can see, there are several points from base to bullet that can have an effect. My procedure is to minimize the influence of those that I can control, namely the case body and neck, and let the alignment be dictated by the fit of the bullet in the throat and to some extent by the bolt's support of the base. Barring a seriously out of square case head, I don't think the bolt can have a negative effect on alignment, only a slightly positive effect from minimizing "case droop" in the chamber. Given that a resized case will usually have a maximum of 0.001" diametrical clearance at the web, this isn't much of a factor anyway."
Below Kevin Thomas of Team Lapua USA who also believes in the Rat Turd in the Violin case.
Bottom line if you feel any resistance when closing the bolt on a loaded round you don't have enough wiggle room and the extra room for the rat turd.
blinderthanascope
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i'm confused about what he want's to know
Rhovee
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Just thought I would put in my experience. I was losing sleep over having to much bump back. Turns out is was right the whole time. It can be deceiving to say just measure a fired case and dial the die down tell you get .002 bump back. I tried that method and my bolt wouldn't close without resistance. If you can't rechamber a fired case then you will need to bump more that .002 to actually have .002 clearance if that makes sense. I am at 4-4.5 thou clearance from a fired case to a true 1.5-2 thou bump. At 2.5-3 I have the smallest amount of resistence closing. 4-4.5 is very smooth. Using a fired case as your bench isn't always true as Broz pointed out in his video. If it won't chamber it's not your actual chamber length.
I too remove the firing pin and ejector when setting my die to where there isn't any resistance on bolt closing. My .338 RUM full length die will not give me the bump I want, so I use a shim between brass and shell holder. Mine was made from a piece of neck turned brass, cut the neck off and flatten with hammer on anvil. I use this because the deprimer pin on the die will poke a hole through the first time I run brass through and this will now hold it in place. I can also turn the brass neck for the shim as much as I need. Kinda shade tree way also.
