ewnanney
Active Member
Thanks guy's, I think that answered my question
I don't find any pattern or formula. Kinda like some brass bullet combos seem to be more prone to cold welding. I just bring the cleaning station to the range and if something seems funky the barrel gets a cleaning. If we get a rifle from someone else then the first thing that happens is it gets all the old copper out of it. We have had some that took a couple of days of scrubbing to get all the layers of copper out.It's worth testing to ease your mind but I haven't noticed a loss of accuracy due to switching over without cleaning. I may shoot 5-8 different loads at the range and only clean when I get home. It wouldn't be unusual for me to shoot 5-6 groups with c&c bullets and then test a few Hammer loads (or visa-versa). I have found many excellent Hammer loads that were shot after the c&c testing. It may be possible that shooting the Hammers would group even tighter on a squeaky-clean barrel but I'm normally seeing .5moa with a carefully developed load without any special attention to bullet type switching.
Personally, I have tested much of the common thought-out and repeated loading/shooting methods only to determine that they often didn't pan out in my testing. There are just so many variables when dealing with individual rifles, components and loading methods that it's hard to say what works better in your rifle without testing.
There are few absolutes in this great and intriguing hobby.
Not exactly proprietary, 2 alloys are used for Guilding metal, 95/5 or 90/10 or in other words, 5% tin or 10% tin. These 2 have differing hardness and friction numbers. Pure copper is stickier than Guilding metal, the more tin content, the less friction and increased hardness. This is why my 338 & 375 target solid brass bullets (non expanding) are HBN coated to decrease friction. We tried a few alloys, including pure Bronze, but it is sticky like gum, as is pure copper jackets or solids.So if I understand the process, it's the composition of the copper and zinc, specifically the ratio of copper to zinc.
I am sure it's proprietary information, but I would like to know if there is a zone, this ratio to this ratio you are OK, above or below this ratio all bets are off.
Interesting information for sure and I have heard it in the past about switching from cup and core to solid copper should be avoided without a deep clean.
No, my big bores all have match grade barrels, even my 375 Weatherby has an aftermarket cut-rifled barrel. Going from a 260g Accubond to a 250g TSX has woeful accuracy if not cleaned.Any chance this comes down to match grade vs factory barrels or rifling type?
Any chance this comes down to match grade vs factory barrels or rifling type?
Love to know who it is trying to sell something because I have never seen it…I bet it comes down to someone trying to sell something.
So this thread has me thinking about HBN coating all my bullets - including the mono's. Has anyone coated their mono's and observed the results?Love to know who it is trying to sell something because I have never seen it…
Cheers.