H1000 variance in powder or chrono?

[jrock]

I have seen funny things with my F1 during spring when I get moving clouds on sunny days. Also, have seen variations if I'm out shooting all day as the sun moves across the sky or the diffusers cast shadows on one of the sensors but not the other.

I'll do a incremental velocity work up to max pressure again and see if velocities stay low or jump back up to the original data. Either way, the gun shoots tight groups.

 

[shphtr]

I tend

 

[shphtr]

I tend to be somewhat OCD and as a consequence chronograph everything, even when working up loads. I have seen vel's
as high as 250 fps between canisters. Usually a difference of 25 to 75 fps is more common. I have addressed this observation by always trying to purchase my powder in 5 or 8 lb containers and using a LabRadar as my chronograph for variencies caused by differences in lighting. I had been using an Oheler (?sp) since about 1995 - really like the LabRadar.

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

I find it rather amusing that many don't want to work with Alliant powder even though the velocity variance with temperature is a constant and rather low from what I've seen. I rarely see ANY difference in velocity between different lots of powder. It's to the point I don't bother to record the lot numbers or bother to mix the powder.
As to the chronograph; get a magnetospeed or an Oehler and forget the single screen jobby...

 

[Wedgy]

Lefty, Reloder 26 & 31 have huge spikes at about 83F, if you can stay under that they are great, but I an out west where sometimes it's 83F at night....
Reloder 16 looks very promising though

 

[Garycrow]

With Alliant powders, just like other brands, you can't make a blanket statement of performance. Some powders are temp stable and stable across the lots while others not so much so. RL22 is probably the most temperature sensitive powder I've ever worked with in the 7mm rem mag, so much so that I refuse to use it any more. RL26 is much more temp stable but didn't give me the accuracy, ES and SD that H1000 does. It does give good velocity, but wasn't as consistent or temp stable as H1000. My problem with the H1000 I got was lot to lot consistency, not the powder itself. An 8 lb. can fixed that.

I'm not brand loyal when it comes to powder, I use whatever I can find works best for the given application. The major powder suppliers are just resellers anyway, they don't actually make the powders they sell. Hodgdon, Alliant, Ramshot, etc. source their powders from many different plants, just because it says Alliant on the label it doesn't mean that it has anything in common with another powder in their line.

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

Lefty, Reloder 26 & 31 have huge spikes at about 83F, if you can stay under that they are great, but I an out west where sometimes it's 83F at night....
Reloder 16 looks very promising though

I've found that with most reloader powders as long as you don't push it too far you don't have trouble going over pressure. I've seen loads with rl26 get a bit nuts when hot if I'm rather warm in cool weather, but that's about it.

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

With Alliant powders, just like other brands, you can't make a blanket statement of performance. Some powders are temp stable and stable across the lots while others not so much so. RL22 is probably the most temperature sensitive powder I've ever worked with in the 7mm rem mag, so much so that I refuse to use it any more. RL26 is much more temp stable but didn't give me the accuracy, ES and SD that H1000 does. It does give good velocity, but wasn't as consistent or temp stable as H1000. My problem with the H1000 I got was lot to lot consistency, not the powder itself. An 8 lb. can fixed that.

I'm not brand loyal when it comes to powder, I use whatever I can find works best for the given application. The major powder suppliers are just resellers anyway, they don't actually make the powders they sell. Hodgdon, Alliant, Ramshot, etc. source their powders from many different plants, just because it says Alliant on the label it doesn't mean that it has anything in common with another powder in their line.

an 8# can fixes consistency issues; until you run out and can't get the **** thing to shoot on the next 8# because it's so different.
rl22 and rl25 are pretty much my go to powders for the 300win and 7stw. I've also used rl22 a bunch in the 7rem over the years. 60 fps or less from the coldest to the hottest weather I shoot is about it from what I've seen. I get the program that Alliant isn't getting every powder out of the same plant; this isn't my first rodeo. They have better Q.C. than hodgdon though and do a better job at blending the powder.
As to rl26; I can't get enough accuracy out of it in anything I don't already have a good load for to bother with. If I decide to get a little 7mm like a 7rem again I may play with it; I still have a # or so on the shelf.

 

[jrock]

Locally, I found a Oehler set up for $200. All my guns are sporter contours #1 to #4 so I'm wondering if it would be worth getting over the Magnetospeed. I've read on sporter barrels, it changes POI a lot.

 

[Kimber7man]

I tried to solve the lot to lot inconsistency issue by buying 4 8lb jugs of the same lot number H1000. Hopefully that works!

 

[Pdvdh]

Locally, I found a Oehler set up for $200.

If that's the 35P, then that's a bargain.

I've avoided the Magnetospeed for the same reasoning. My rifles have lighter contour barrels than most posting on this Forum. It seems risky to develop loads with a bayonet hanging off the muzzle with #3 & #4 contour barrels. At #5 and heavier, my gut instinct is the MS is a better option.

 

[jrock]

The description only say model 35, don't know if its a P or if it matters.

 

[Pdvdh]

The description only say model 35, don't know if its a P or if it matters.

I "think" P means it comes with printer. Ask if it has three sky screens and a printer (prints out data on calculater-type roll of paper). You'll for sure want the printer.
Go to Oehler's web site to learn more about their current production 35P. I think current production 35Ps all have the printer included.

 

[shphtr]

Yup, "p" means a printer - actually pretty nice to have ...... but fades somewhat with time (years).