Bob S.
Well-Known Member
4ked Horn - Thanks for the info and link to your previous gong post. It was awesome. I think I have a plan for this winter gong project. I'll let you know how it turns out when it happens.
Gongs
- Thread starter Bob S.
- Start date
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Here is another link for you if you are feeling truly ambitious.
We really like the swingers we made in the pictures at the top but If you make your own follow this design:
1. The entire face should be either T1 or better steel and should be ONE piece. Cut it in the shape of a double ended lollipop. Ours were made of two discs welded to an angle iron beam. Even though we welded a bar to the back of the discs and the angle the disc still shot off due to some inferior welds with a 110 volt stick welder.
2. 1/2 inch thick will do. If you make it too thick then you will have to hit it multiple times in succession to get it to spin over. (This is what Gonehuntingagain was going for so our discs are about 3/4 thick.) Also make the disc diameters the same size. 9" is about as big as I would go.
3. Weld your axle tube (1/2 I.D. tubing) to the back of your one piece target face LESS THAN 1" above the balance point. You want it as close to the balance point as possible and still be out of balance enough to reset its self when it stops moving. Too far and it won't swing well. Make it as wide as the target metal so it is hidden behind the target but has a nice bearing surface.
4. Bend the target face in a slight curve around the axle tube by laying it on the floor tube side down and having a friend stand on one end and you apply weight to the other. Small bends make a big difference and heat at the balance point might help if the metal is hard. This will make the target hang more vertically instead of tilted forward. Check it after each SMALL adjustment.
7. Now weld some nice braces to the axle tube and the back of the target. This is the other part that broke from shooting on ours. 2 pointing up and 2 pointing down should do OK. Make them triangles that are about 4" x 4" x 3/4". 1/4" thick mild steel will be OK since they are protected by the target face.
6. Make your axle out of 1/2" diameter solid bar stock. 18" long ought to do nicely. If you want to get fancy you can drill a 1/8" hole for a cotter pin then put on a small washer then the axle tube then a washer and then drill for a small "quick pin". (you know, the ones that look like a heavy duty hair pin.)This will keep the target centered between the legs when the target spins.
7. make the legs as long as you want out of 1/2" square tubing. Weld a piece of strap across to make an "A" shape. then weld small pieces of the axle tube material on top at a slight angle so the legs kick out a little to the side for stability (and to keep them out of the line of fire). No need to fasten the axle to the legs, it wont go anywhere if the targets axle tube spins nicely.
8. Paint
9. SHOOT, SHOOT, SHOOT.
We really like the swingers we made in the pictures at the top but If you make your own follow this design:
1. The entire face should be either T1 or better steel and should be ONE piece. Cut it in the shape of a double ended lollipop. Ours were made of two discs welded to an angle iron beam. Even though we welded a bar to the back of the discs and the angle the disc still shot off due to some inferior welds with a 110 volt stick welder.
2. 1/2 inch thick will do. If you make it too thick then you will have to hit it multiple times in succession to get it to spin over. (This is what Gonehuntingagain was going for so our discs are about 3/4 thick.) Also make the disc diameters the same size. 9" is about as big as I would go.
3. Weld your axle tube (1/2 I.D. tubing) to the back of your one piece target face LESS THAN 1" above the balance point. You want it as close to the balance point as possible and still be out of balance enough to reset its self when it stops moving. Too far and it won't swing well. Make it as wide as the target metal so it is hidden behind the target but has a nice bearing surface.
4. Bend the target face in a slight curve around the axle tube by laying it on the floor tube side down and having a friend stand on one end and you apply weight to the other. Small bends make a big difference and heat at the balance point might help if the metal is hard. This will make the target hang more vertically instead of tilted forward. Check it after each SMALL adjustment.
7. Now weld some nice braces to the axle tube and the back of the target. This is the other part that broke from shooting on ours. 2 pointing up and 2 pointing down should do OK. Make them triangles that are about 4" x 4" x 3/4". 1/4" thick mild steel will be OK since they are protected by the target face.
6. Make your axle out of 1/2" diameter solid bar stock. 18" long ought to do nicely. If you want to get fancy you can drill a 1/8" hole for a cotter pin then put on a small washer then the axle tube then a washer and then drill for a small "quick pin". (you know, the ones that look like a heavy duty hair pin.)This will keep the target centered between the legs when the target spins.
7. make the legs as long as you want out of 1/2" square tubing. Weld a piece of strap across to make an "A" shape. then weld small pieces of the axle tube material on top at a slight angle so the legs kick out a little to the side for stability (and to keep them out of the line of fire). No need to fasten the axle to the legs, it wont go anywhere if the targets axle tube spins nicely.
8. Paint
9. SHOOT, SHOOT, SHOOT.
Centre Punch
Well-Known Member
Cowboy,I had a 16" dia. 1/2" thick disk laser cut at my local profile cutting shop,they burned two 1/2" holes 90 degrees apart.oh forgot to mention it was Hot Rolled Plate. This was hung by two short pieces of chain from a cheap tubuler steel trestle i bought from my DIY store.It was cut at 16" so that it would roughly 1 moa at 1500m as of yet i have not shoot at it because of temporary range access problems here in the UK. This little set up cost £30 in total about $50
Ian M
Well-Known Member
We keep it simple. 3/8 or 1/4 inch plate, cheapest I can find and whatever size. Prefer 2'x4'. Used to use old swingsets, now have a simple, portable stand setup that is cheap, easiy repaired and just plain works for what we do.
Leg angle can be varied, which in turn varies how high the target sits above the ground. We simply hang the big sheets of steel from "S" hooks, no chain anymore, vary the leg angle till the sheet is just clear of the ground. Then low shots do not get under, we can spot about anything we shoot.
I have some jpegs of the new stand and plate setup if anyone wishes to see them or put them up.
Hardened steel is not needed for our .308 rifles out at 700 to 1000, the .300 WSM bends it at 700 tho.
Leg angle can be varied, which in turn varies how high the target sits above the ground. We simply hang the big sheets of steel from "S" hooks, no chain anymore, vary the leg angle till the sheet is just clear of the ground. Then low shots do not get under, we can spot about anything we shoot.
I have some jpegs of the new stand and plate setup if anyone wishes to see them or put them up.
Hardened steel is not needed for our .308 rifles out at 700 to 1000, the .300 WSM bends it at 700 tho.
Bob S.
Well-Known Member
Holy cow! I thought I had it figured out. Now I have to decide if I want a swinging or spinning target(kidding). I like the bench pictures also since I have been contemplating that project. So many projects so little time. If I didn't have to work I would have almost enough time.
RMulhern
Well-Known Member
Go to a bulldozer repair facility and get them to cut you a 1/2" piece of T1 steel! They can cut it any way you like! Harder than Hillary's arse!!
Jon A
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
Anyway if your interested I could cut you out a gong to your specs.there is a 10.00 - $20 cutting fee depending on your size. and the steel is around $25.00 a square ft.
[/ QUOTE ]
Do you still have any of that stuff left? If so, I might be interested in having you cut me off a slab...my gong is getting worn out. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Anyway if your interested I could cut you out a gong to your specs.there is a 10.00 - $20 cutting fee depending on your size. and the steel is around $25.00 a square ft.
[/ QUOTE ]
Do you still have any of that stuff left? If so, I might be interested in having you cut me off a slab...my gong is getting worn out. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
308 nate
Well-Known Member
JonA
I sure do.
Just let me know what size you want.
308nate
I sure do.
Just let me know what size you want.
308nate
Jon A
Well-Known Member
Cool. I'm looking for one 24" long, 18" tall. Can you burn a hole in the top two corners too? I'm thinking I might go through a box of drill bits trying to drill through.
308 nate
Well-Known Member
Jon A,
torching a few holes won't be a problem!I would imagine you would want at least 1/2" or do you want them big enough to slip your chain through? As far as pricing 3 square ft. would be 75.00 plus 15.00 for cutting.And actual UPS shipping.I would need your address to get the exact amount for you.I got a good deal on the steel and am passing it on to you as I believe it runs about 35-40.00/sq. ft. AR400 is what they use fo maintainer (grader) blades and in my tests T1 doesn't even come close to the AR400 for erosion resistance.Let me know if it's a go.
here is my e-mail address:
[email protected]
thanks,
308nate
torching a few holes won't be a problem!I would imagine you would want at least 1/2" or do you want them big enough to slip your chain through? As far as pricing 3 square ft. would be 75.00 plus 15.00 for cutting.And actual UPS shipping.I would need your address to get the exact amount for you.I got a good deal on the steel and am passing it on to you as I believe it runs about 35-40.00/sq. ft. AR400 is what they use fo maintainer (grader) blades and in my tests T1 doesn't even come close to the AR400 for erosion resistance.Let me know if it's a go.
here is my e-mail address:
[email protected]
thanks,
308nate
Jon A
Well-Known Member
Cool. Email sent. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
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308 nate
If you like, you can just ask the other member to click on your Username to get your email address. I notice you have included one as part of your Profile.
If you like, you can just ask the other member to click on your Username to get your email address. I notice you have included one as part of your Profile.
