Go/No Go Gauge Mystery

[justinp61]

I've only rebarreled two Savage rifles and am waiting on the barrel to do the third. On the first one (260 Rem.) I used a go gauge, set the head space so the bolt would close on it, then put a piece of shipping tape on the go gauge (.004") and the bolt wouldn't close on it. The second one (22-250) I bought both gauges, the gauges have a slot milled in the head for the ejector so no bolt disassembly needed. The third will also be a 260 Remington so I went ahead and ordered the No Go gauge so I don't mess with tape. The No Go measures .004" longer than the Go gauge.

The Op needs to measure his gauges from the sounds of it. Good luck.

 

[Muddyboots]

Using head space gauges requires a light touch. If the bolt has a plunger style ejector, it should be removed so you are not 'fighting ' the spring that powers it. Also, the firing pin assembly should be removed, so you don't feel the hand-off to the trigger. Never 'lean on' or force a head space gauge. With the bolt stripped of its plunger ejector and firing pin assembly the bolt handle should fall of its own weight when no gauge is present. The same technique should be applied with the GO, move the bolt into the action until it is in position to turn down. The bolt handle should fall. Do the same with the No-Go, the bolt handle should not fall of its own weight. There are techniques used by those with experience, but don't try them until you can understand and properly use what you have. Gauges are very rarely made "wrong". It is usually an 'operator' problem.

THIS!!!!

 

[DJ Fergus]

I have a Savage model 112 long action that was originally chambered in .223. I bought and put on a .17 Remington barrel built by Shaw barrels. I purchased a set of go/no go gauges from Pacific Tool and Gauge. I got the barrel very close to proper headspace but the bolt will still close on the no go gauge although it closes quite stiff. I recently came into a Remington Model 700 factory chambered in .17 Remington and the no go gauge closes very easy in this chamber as well. Pacific is the only place I have found that builds a set of gauges for the .17 Remington. Do you think it is possible I got a bad set of gauges?
Thank you for any information.
Clint

I had a 25-06 rem 700. From the factory, chamber was .010" over no go. Factory chambers can be big and sloppy. I would bet on the no-go gauge being closer to accurate than the 700 chamber, and I usually don't take up for PTG. If you reload, just make sure that you only bump the shoulder back a few thousandths instead of maximum shoulder set back that the die will do.

 

[shortgrass]

I would seriously doubt that the gauges are bad. Gauges are the one thing PTG must pay attention to. Gauges made out of spec can put the maker out of business. I have no great love for the maker of these gauges as I have had problems with their reamers and customer service. Another thing that has crossed my mind is, If the threads are a mite sloppy on the barrel or in the action, when you tighten the nut it pulls the barrel away from the bolt face. This could be creating your problem. If you happen to have a trusted gunsmith in your area, I'd take it to him and see what he has to say. He should have a set of gauges, so yours could be compared to his. I've contributed all I care to in this thread, so it's all speculation which is what the web seems to be all about these days. PTG isn't the only tool maker that makes .17 Rem. gauges. If you'd have called JGS or Manson, chances are they'd have been able to supply what you needed. Just because they don't list it on their web sites doesn't mean they don't have 'um.

 

[westcliffe01]

I have changed all my factory Savage barrels for aftermarket ones. I buy a go gauge and after setting the headspace I use a piece of a "post it " pad behind the go gauge and the bolts will never close on it. So far I'm pretty sure my headspace is set to minimums. I also use only brass that has been fired in that chamber and so far have not yet had to bump the shoulder to get it to chamber after re-loading. Primarily use a body sizing die and a collet die on the neck which works the neck much less than a full length die.

 

[John Klingenberg]

Manson.

 

[nksmfamjp]

Savages can move when tightening. Try running the barrel down to the GO gage. Then take the gauge out. Turn it a smidge tighter. Then torque the nut lightly to like 20 ft lbs and try both gauges. I'll bet it works.

Also confirm the GO with 0.002" packaging tape on it. You don't want the handle to drop with this either.

 

[Muddyboots]

Just as @shortgrass has stated, you really need to remove all bolt interference to properly feel the go gauge. Same method to really set your headspace for your dies. Do it once like this and you will appreciate the absolute sensitivity of removing bolt cam over interference. Bolt is sloppy and the most minute force can be felt in the cam over of the bolt. Plus clean your bolt at same time.

 

[HRM Johnny]

Thanks for straightening that out @shortgrass