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Winchester 69
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Congratulations! Hope you enjoy yours as much as I do my Boss. I wouldn't have anything else.
Hairtrigger
Well-Known Member
I bet you cannot wear that press out
3fingervic
Well-Known Member
Any advise on a tumbler? How is the RCBS powder trickler? I'm definitely picking up at least one all cal reloading book, but I did see a Dillon one cal one book reloading manual. Would that be worth the $20?
Winchester 69
Well-Known Member
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The recommendation for loading manuals is more for the instructional material than for the recipes. That's why the Lyman manual is universally recommended. That the recipes do not concentrate on a single brand of powders or bullets is secondary. The Speer and Hornady books also have good instructional sections. The Sierra manual has good ballistics information, but it's also available online at their website. The primary emphasis for you is your getting a good foundation for what you will be doing. Read first. Load second. You will be building your own loading process to suit your particular requirements.
I'm unable to advise you about Dillon's manual; you should decide for yourself if it looks like it has $20 dollars worth of information. I think I would establish a need before investing. Load info is pretty much available for the asking.
The RCBS trickler is made of metal, which is probably an advantage over a plastic one that may be prone to static problems. The main differential is mass (weight). The thing will walk all over the place if its not heavy or fastened to something that is. One mfr, the one of your recent acquaintance, has a heavy one. It's of cast iron and is advertised to weigh one pound. It's made by Redding and is not the least expensive. It is the most functional. If you can weight down the RCBS or one of the plastic ones, you may have something that will work as well. What's the trouble worth? I use the Redding and am pleased.
I'll take the opportunity here to re-emphasize the desirability of having caliber-specific funnel and loading blocks if your loading process utilizes them. The cases and funnel will be stabilized when pouring weighed powder charges. If you have a third or fourth hand available, ignore the previous comment.
I don't use a tumbler. The factors surrounding their use are noise, stability and life expectancy. Do searches on a number of forums to get a feeling for which are the good ones. You'll also need a means for separating the cases from the media.
I'm unable to advise you about Dillon's manual; you should decide for yourself if it looks like it has $20 dollars worth of information. I think I would establish a need before investing. Load info is pretty much available for the asking.
The RCBS trickler is made of metal, which is probably an advantage over a plastic one that may be prone to static problems. The main differential is mass (weight). The thing will walk all over the place if its not heavy or fastened to something that is. One mfr, the one of your recent acquaintance, has a heavy one. It's of cast iron and is advertised to weigh one pound. It's made by Redding and is not the least expensive. It is the most functional. If you can weight down the RCBS or one of the plastic ones, you may have something that will work as well. What's the trouble worth? I use the Redding and am pleased.
I'll take the opportunity here to re-emphasize the desirability of having caliber-specific funnel and loading blocks if your loading process utilizes them. The cases and funnel will be stabilized when pouring weighed powder charges. If you have a third or fourth hand available, ignore the previous comment.
I don't use a tumbler. The factors surrounding their use are noise, stability and life expectancy. Do searches on a number of forums to get a feeling for which are the good ones. You'll also need a means for separating the cases from the media.
3fingervic
Well-Known Member
Your advise is not falling on deaf ears. The manual comment makes sense to me. I do plan on reading and rereading before getting started. Redding trickler....Check!
As far as the cal specific blocks and funnel, that was the plan. I'm already digitally challenged, hence the user name.
I can't afford to be careless.
You said you don't use a tumbler. What is your brass cleaning process? Thanks for the help.
As far as the cal specific blocks and funnel, that was the plan. I'm already digitally challenged, hence the user name.
I can't afford to be careless. You said you don't use a tumbler. What is your brass cleaning process? Thanks for the help.
Winchester 69
Well-Known Member
- Joined
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- Messages
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I use my dishwasher, but it is not a uniformly accepted method as primer material is lead styphnate. It may just be Californians, but some are concerned with contamination. Another method is to put the brass in the washing machine with jeans or whatever. The brass is first put in a mesh bag either way.
Incidentally, I'm more concerned about what I breathe at an indoor range than I am about residue in my dishwasher. That doesn't mean that you shouldn't be.
You should understand that I'm less concerned about how much you spend on the things that you will use than your spending money on what you don't need, won't use, or will replace. There are other areas where you could decide to spend more on your own, like the suggested Lee AutoPrime. It's the most popular unit going for reasons other than its low price, but many prefer an RCBS model. I've been specific on pieces that are markedly better, like your press and trickler.
Incidentally, I'm more concerned about what I breathe at an indoor range than I am about residue in my dishwasher. That doesn't mean that you shouldn't be.
You should understand that I'm less concerned about how much you spend on the things that you will use than your spending money on what you don't need, won't use, or will replace. There are other areas where you could decide to spend more on your own, like the suggested Lee AutoPrime. It's the most popular unit going for reasons other than its low price, but many prefer an RCBS model. I've been specific on pieces that are markedly better, like your press and trickler.
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3fingervic
Well-Known Member
Alright, I did some shopping/ordering today. I went to Gander Mnt. and picked up a Speer loading book, a loading block and a digital caliper. Then I went on the Midway site and ordered a few items. 30 cal. funnel, .300 wm loading block, Lee powder scoops, Redding powder trickler, Redding comp. shell holders and an RCBS hand primer. How am I doing? What else should I be looking at?
Winchester 69
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- Joined
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- Messages
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I'll suggest that you do two things before making any more purchases. The first is to go online and order the Sinclair catalog. The second is to read and study your loading manual. I mentioned that you will design your own process. You should first formulate what your anticipated methods will be. Then you can make better decisions regarding your purchases. Be sure you need what you buy.
Incidentally, the Redding shell holder set is a good idea for belted magnums. They're bad about having headspacing issues that lead to premature brass failure. I believe those shell holders will work with your RCBS priming tool, if it's the model requiring a shell holder. Use the 0.002" one as it's closest to standard.
Incidentally, the Redding shell holder set is a good idea for belted magnums. They're bad about having headspacing issues that lead to premature brass failure. I believe those shell holders will work with your RCBS priming tool, if it's the model requiring a shell holder. Use the 0.002" one as it's closest to standard.
john_m44
Well-Known Member
I would suggest hornady lock-n-load head space gauges.Hornady Lock-N-Load Headspace Gage 5 Bushing Set with Comparator - MidwayUSA
No matter how much research you do you'll always find something you "need".
john_m44
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=479704
No matter how much research you do you'll always find something you "need".
john_m44
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=479704
3fingervic
Well-Known Member
Well, I have a plan in my mind. After the brass is preped for sizing and deprimeing, I will do so to all of the brass in the batch. Then I will hand prime all of the brass. Using the Lee scoop set, I will come close to the desired charge using my scale. I will leave the charge in the pan and trickle the rest. After all the powder charges are complete, I will then seat the bullets to the correct OAL. At least that's the plan. My issue is prepping the brass. I'm sure there is a hole or two in my method let me have it.
Winchester 69
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- Joined
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- Messages
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Run the brass over your sizing die's expander button to make them round, but don't fully size the case (don't contact the shoulder portion of the brass). Check the first few to assure they will chamber in the rifle. A little lube on the inside of the case neck will ease the process. Then you're ready to chamfer, inside and outside, the case neck. On the outside, it's only necessary to remove any burr, not form a bevel. The inside needs a definite bevel, and this is where the VLD tool is beneficial. During all of this, you should be inspecting the brass for defects. Also, look for any major burrs on the inside of the flash hole. Big ones can be removed with a drill bit; around 1/4" will do. People loading for accuracy will buy a tool to uniform this area, and Sinclair sells a good one. If you're hunting, it's probably not necessary. Uniforming the primer pocket deserves similar commentary (probably not necessary). Your brass will need cleaning following these operations to remove lube and shavings. Shavings will score your dies, as will sizing w/o lube cause galling (except for carbide dies).
BTW, clean your new dies before using. Be sure the first case into a clean die is well lubed (except on the shoulder area.
After the first firing and sizing, check the case length and trim all to the same length. Absolute trim length varies with each barrel's chamber, but using the SAAMI length is simplest. Similarly, COAL can be adjusted to fit the chamber (although you're probably confined by magazine length); it's easiest to follow the SAAMI spec.
Since you've purchased the Redding Shellholder Set, I presume you understand the concept of partial full-length sizing, minimally bumping the shoulder back only enough to permit chambering. You want to have your brass's headspace set by the shoulder, not the magnum belt.
Simple enough.
BTW, clean your new dies before using. Be sure the first case into a clean die is well lubed (except on the shoulder area.
After the first firing and sizing, check the case length and trim all to the same length. Absolute trim length varies with each barrel's chamber, but using the SAAMI length is simplest. Similarly, COAL can be adjusted to fit the chamber (although you're probably confined by magazine length); it's easiest to follow the SAAMI spec.
Since you've purchased the Redding Shellholder Set, I presume you understand the concept of partial full-length sizing, minimally bumping the shoulder back only enough to permit chambering. You want to have your brass's headspace set by the shoulder, not the magnum belt.
Simple enough.
3fingervic
Well-Known Member
Well, I am trying to load for accuracy. I don't expect the quality of my rounds to be up to your standards for quite a while. That said I'm going to try to be as precise as possible with my limited skills. I will follow your instructions for the sizing, lubeing and deburring. Could you give me a list of the case prep items you would recommend? Thanks again.
