Gadgets/tools plus techniques for learning wind reading

[dmr400]

Not so hypothetical question here. If you wanted to start from scratch learning to read wind in the field in the most efficient way possible, or train someone else to do so, how would you go about it?

I have decent positional fundamentals, a kestrel, and a revic rangefinder. I have a very generous ammo budget and am using remage barrels so that isn't really a concern.

It seems to me that either an electronic target or a target camera would allow as close to instant feedback as possible to see if your call was correct, assuming good shot execution.

I like to shoot a lot in various locations, often on the very properties I'm hunting (lots of coyote hunting) , but I can't say I'm very consistent in my wind calling success at distance so I want to focus on that this year.

So if you could start with a clean slate, had an unlimited budget and time, how would you go about it?

Target camera seems like a better option for a mobile setup that can be used anywhere.

What target setup would you use, paper or steel? And what size for a portable setup to use in lots of different locations? I have a 7" tall by 20" wide AR500 plate I had cut to simulate a broadside coyote torso, but sometimes I struggle to get on it at distance.

Alex Wheeler mentioned in one thread on another forum putting clay targets on a good dirt bank to spot hits, which I thought was a great idea but I can't always find a good dirt bank where I need it when I have time to shoot.

What about small portable BR type wind flags to correlate to the mirage? Just another of the ideas floating around in my head.

I usually have to train by myself, but I have seen it recommended to spot for a buddy shooting and making wind calls for him allows you to focus solely on the wind. I can probably make that happen occasionally but looking for ways to do this by myself as much as possible.

Also what sort of drills do you like for this?

Thanks for your feedback.

 

[FireFlyFishing]

Lots of ammo and lots of shooting.

Set your targets up in a spot where you can see bullet splash for corrections and dope recordings.

I'm going down the train of trying mrad scopes as you can wind bracket with them.

I've seen the light indicators for steel targets. They seem to be worth while when it's windy, you're shootings at distance, and may not be able to hear the steel feedback.

I guess it's up to you how technologically advanced you want to get. I would like to stay more bare bones learning how to wind call. When I'm out hunting, I won't have all the gee whiz bang toys as a crutch when making a call on an animal. Experience, familiarization, and then correction seem the be the best assets come game time.

 

[BSPPC]

Wing flags …….

 

[Hand Skills]

In the field?

A high quality spotting scope is a game changer... Taking cues from vegetation, and especially mirage helps a lot.

Attach a cel phone camera to it and video your shots

The fastest and most efficient way to learn?

I'm guessing here, but probably a couple of courses at @Barbourcreek

 

[milo-2]

Not so hypothetical question here. If you wanted to start from scratch learning to read wind in the field in the most efficient way possible, or train someone else to do so, how would you go about it?

I have decent positional fundamentals, a kestrel, and a revic rangefinder. I have a very generous ammo budget and am using remage barrels so that isn't really a concern.

It seems to me that either an electronic target or a target camera would allow as close to instant feedback as possible to see if your call was correct, assuming good shot execution.

I like to shoot a lot in various locations, often on the very properties I'm hunting (lots of coyote hunting) , but I can't say I'm very consistent in my wind calling success at distance so I want to focus on that this year.

So if you could start with a clean slate, had an unlimited budget and time, how would you go about it?

Target camera seems like a better option for a mobile setup that can be used anywhere.

What target setup would you use, paper or steel? And what size for a portable setup to use in lots of different locations? I have a 7" tall by 20" wide AR500 plate I had cut to simulate a broadside coyote torso, but sometimes I struggle to get on it at distance.

Alex Wheeler mentioned in one thread on another forum putting clay targets on a good dirt bank to spot hits, which I thought was a great idea but I can't always find a good dirt bank where I need it when I have time to shoot.

What about small portable BR type wind flags to correlate to the mirage? Just another of the ideas floating around in my head.

I usually have to train by myself, but I have seen it recommended to spot for a buddy shooting and making wind calls for him allows you to focus solely on the wind. I can probably make that happen occasionally but looking for ways to do this by myself as much as possible.

Also what sort of drills do you like for this?

Thanks for your feedback.

If you are bound and determined to go at it alone, I would buy steel targets, with an easy way to plant or hang them. Steel gives instantaneous feedback. I really like Xsteel targets and mount systems for portable use.

XSteel Targets-America's Best AR500 and AR550 Steel Target Manufacture

Industry leading AR500 and AR550 steel shooting targets. Our products are laser cut from the highest quality material you can buy. From reactive moving targets to stationary plinking steel we have it all. Custom cut orders welcome! Get your premium targets in round, square, moving or fun novelty...

www.xsteeltargets.com

Target background will be paramount in your case, need to spot misses, if they cannot be on the side of a hill, look for anything that will print bullet splash, if not available, get the steel as close to the ground as possible, this eliminates over shooting, and seeing impacts below the target.
An electronic target is extremely limited, setup time, and just one spot, it's just not that much fun shooting one distance for long periods of time.
Shooting multiple locations as you do is in your favor, this is good. So think this way, most all these spots have basically the same air movement for the day, air is moving through your part of the state at say 11mph SSE. It's terrain that disrupts air flow, causing it to speed up, slow down, and bend to a certain degree, funnel, hence the rodeo at times. IMO, wind flags can help, but if you're going to use, while shooting, figure out the why behind the shifts downrange and sooner or later, they will not be needed. A Kestrel reading at shooting location will suffice. But if setting targets daily, take a Kestrel reading at each target and document it.
Sometimes a spotter would be nice, but buy the best scope you can afford, and learn to trust what you see downrange. Pay attn to the details.
I like shooting alone, esp if a goal is to be accomplished. I got into 22LR 3yrs ago, and if I had company most outings, I wouldn't have picked up 20% of what I know and understand today. Not telling you to go alone, we are all different, good luck!
Edit: Touching on target camera, combined with electronic target, just learn to shoot and not how to manage gadgets. If some clown brought a drone to spot hits at say over 1600 yards, my ammo supply would be spent trying to shoot it out of the air.

 

[Beluebow]

If you truly want to know whats going on down range https://windzero.store/ ......we have shot some amazing scores in some big wind during Fclass practice.

Lots of sniper/LEO units both foreign and domestic are using this tool. Pretty sure Barbour Creek has one as well. Mark and Sam after work as well.

 

[dfanonymous]

Kestrel.

Wind flags only teach you how to use wind flags imo.
If all you do is shoot on the range, then that might be fine. However, even in PRS flag reading isn't always an option.

Foliage and at night:
Get a note book (or dope book), then go to surrounding prominent brush, trees and foliage and get readings and note the bending. If particular trees don't start to bend until a certain mph, note that.

When you're on the range, use a kestrel to get the wind at your position, then learn to 3rd your total range, using what you know about foliage in the wind.

In the absence of foliage, like desert or prominent snowed landscape, mirage is going to be your next tool. Again, using your kestrel, but this time with a spotter on a pan head can help both with wind direction and speed for the last 2/3s. I'm sure plenty of charts are online nowadays, but it's a bit of a learning curb to be able to identify what you're looking for sometimes.

Pro tip, when applicable, look up to approximately where max ordinate will be if your shot. If there's a difference in mirage bend, go with the greater number.

Lastly, learn the MPH method. It's also more also called quick wind in the military. It's easier to do in a mrad scope. This helps take that data that you have environmentally collected and lets you apply it to the scope without needing to compute it on a solver. I've mentioned it a few times on here, but often it goes over peoples head.

 

[Hand Skills]

These guys call it gun number, but same principle as MPH above;