Food plots

I really want a tractor but I have stayed away from old tractors because I am not a mechanic. I can do basic stuff but no serious kind of tear down. I have had friends over the years who have had old tractors and the tractors spent most of their time sitting in a barn because they needed to be worked on so I am weary of old tractors. I am selling off 5 aces to my neighbor who is a good friend to get a fairly new tractor in the 35 hp range with a front end loader. We were going to do it this year but it has not worked out yet.

My neighbor has not planted cereal rye in the last 2 seasons so there won't be any of that nearby. I just want something that will be lush and green in Dec and Jan and easy to grow. I will look into other options mentioned here.

As for implements, I have looked into drag harrows but I still have sapling stobs and I am worried that it will get hung up constantly. I am also interested in getting a cultipacker but they are kind of pricey. I assume its because of the materials necessary to make a decent one.
 
Round up now ,plant second week of September, Antler king products plus some purple top turnips works well here
Here's my mid November crop! We don't have to bale it, or even cut it for that matter....planting in September 🤣😂😅🤣😂...this is where a 5 x 5 Bull did a 360 on the fence wire and face planted 15 ft. infront of me!
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I have a long ag background and enjoy food plot management more than deer hunting honestly. Roundup has no little to no residual there for you could plant days later if you want. I have access to all the main tillage equipment so not everyone has these options. I spray a good load down of gramaxone or round up to kill then I'll fire burn off the entire plot, disk, do all, broadcast seed and fertilize then harrow and roll in. If the option is there to burn the plot (assuming you aren't overseeding into a warm season plot) then I strongly recommend you do, it'll really clean up the dirt and make tillage a lot more effective. I am a believer that your region is very dependent of what is on the menu but cereal grains are hard to beat with brassicas in the mix. I will be happy to suggest mix ratios if you want some. Fertilize is often over looked and misunderstood so guys think 2 bags of 13-13-13 on their 1acre plot is of value, I typically add 60 units of N/K and 30 P. High plant population will result in finer and more leaf compared to less, considering we are looking for forage and not grain production don't be scared to plant heavy.

This was a late plot of cereals and radishes I put in last year, this plot is almost 8 weeks in at the photo in early December. I am in North Mississippi btw.
 
For us in SE GA, mix of grains, usually cereal rye and oats, with crimson clover added. The grains dominate into January when the clover takes over and goes into late spring. Somtimes add arrowleaf and red clover to the mix to extend it further in to the late spring/summer. We usually plant the last week of September or first week of October. Avoids the heat of planting earlier and risk on a wet year of growing over mature before the deer are interested, due to still available AG and acorns earlier in the month of September. As others have said lime is important. Test in the winter and spread in spring to be ready for fall. Depending on the soil of that particular plot, we usually get about 3 to 4 years between applications of bulk lime.
 
x2 per 338 Dude, oats, wheat, rye, and clover mix does well in middle Georgia, did you test soil.
Ditto! I dont use roundup. Just plant it heavier than recommended seeding rate. Last week in September, give or take a week. I'll come back over Chufa's with winter rye and clover when they're gone. Haven't even disc them up yet, but once I do…look out…deer everywhere till chufas are gone. I plant half my 1 1/2 acre plot in chufas this year, the other in peas. The peas got 12-16" high and they mowed them down to a 1" stem. I have planted Sawtooth oaks and Dunstan Chesnuts around the perimeter of the plot but that's gonna take another 5-6 years to start producing. I also supplement with minerals and corn feeder all year long in the plot, which I affectionately call the 'field of dreams'. "If you feed them, they will come".
 
I agree with the plant what ever grows they will come. Brassicas are great, oats, triticale may be better for areas sensitive to cereal rye.

Round up has little to no residual. You can plant 3-5 days after application. However if using Dicamba or Dicamba and 2,4-D (which you should always use more than 1 mode of action) wait 7-14 days depending on use rate. Dicamba and 2,4-D work on the broad leaf plants. ALWAYS READ AND FOLLOW THE LABEL.
 
I maintain/plant 17 acres of food plots. What and when you plant is location dependent. My fall plantings are winter rye, oats, red and white clover, and chicory. With our weather, these need to go in by Labor Day. We also plant acres or brassica, and corn or beans which go in late spring or summer. As others have said, get your soil tested. We had extremely acidic soils with PH in the low 4s. Had to put down 60+ tons of ag lime to get the soil in shape. Please understand, unless your PH is good, a plant's ability to absorb nutrients is greatly limited. In fact, with acidic soils, I view lime as more important than fertilize.

You've gotten good advice about roundup. When I have time, spray, wait 10 days, disc, wait 10 days and spraying again can be optimal. Sadly, I'm constantly strapped for time. I will say that if starting out, I'd set up a boomed sprayer. While I have and still use a boomless sprayer, coverage is far more thorough with a boomed sprayer.

Final comment: Magazine cover weed free plots are beautiful
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, but not necessary. Deer eat most all of the weeds on my place:)
 
I really want a tractor but I have stayed away from old tractors because I am not a mechanic. I can do basic stuff but no serious kind of tear down. I have had friends over the years who have had old tractors and the tractors spent most of their time sitting in a barn because they needed to be worked on so I am weary of old tractors. I am selling off 5 aces to my neighbor who is a good friend to get a fairly new tractor in the 35 hp range with a front end loader. We were going to do it this year but it has not worked out yet.

My neighbor has not planted cereal rye in the last 2 seasons so there won't be any of that nearby. I just want something that will be lush and green in Dec and Jan and easy to grow. I will look into other options mentioned here.

As for implements, I have looked into drag harrows but I still have sapling stobs and I am worried that it will get hung up constantly. I am also interested in getting a cultipacker but they are kind of pricey. I assume its because of the materials necessary to make a decent one.
well I will add this,
most all the OLD tractor's PER 1970's were basically as SIMPLE as they could be, they were designed this way , due to the simple fact, NO bash, that farmers back in the 40-50-60's were NOT all that educated , many had little to no schooling or tech skills
they grew up on a farm and stayed there,
so, the machines /tractors and even implements were rather simple, so the average farmer could work on and fix!
this is actually an advantage to old tractors,
they are night and day easier to work on
not to mention, most of them were WAY over built for the HP they had, rear ends over sized, frames over sized, weight over sized, all things that make things last a LONG time!
and also, older tractors will have more weight than many modern tractors of double the HP, and in tractors weight is your friend most times! one big advantage IMO to older tractors besides being easy to work on!
yes older things can have issue's and need repairs
but when buying things, anything used , if were honest can have problems, and some are just in better shape than others

but the costs to FIX a old tractor can be a LOT less than anything more modern,
BUT we all like what we like or buy what we want!


NOW< if your considering buying a more modern tractor, and plan to do more than 4-5 acres of food plots,
I'd highly suggest going bigger than 35 hp, get as close to 50 as you can
this just opened the door to SO many more things the tractor can run and do!
the general rule of thumb on a say a brush hog, is 10 HP per ft
so, a 35 HP tractor is running MAX power to run a 4 ft mower, and YES many go bigger, but that is also working the tractor a LOT harder to do so,

same with disc, and other implements
when you get into the 50 hp range you get more machine, and old saying, better to cry once than buy twice!
just honest advice and food to think on!


LAST, you really don't want a spring tooth harrow if your working any where there are a lot of roots, better tool will be a disc, be it a drag behind or a 3 point hitch design, it will work way better! and with less hang ups
but again, size of tractor dictates the size of a disc you can use
 
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