Flash hole deburring tool.

[2Rope]

I've had good luck with Sinclair...

 

[dmoon]

I like my Sinclair as well, but all in all the K&M is my favorite. I bought all of mine 20+ years ago too....so things may have changed.

 

[DUSTY NOGGIN]

I also have the K&M. Works great/highly recommend!

I've tried them all at one time or another and have found the K&M tool to be my favorite. It fits about any case neck and it's design doesn't require trimming cases, say you're wanting to let them get longer prior to trim.
View attachment 101024

bonus about the k&m -- handle comes off and screws into my motorized case prep

squeezing a small spring between the handle/case prep center and the centering cone keeps a hand free so you can have another one ready , super fast ... surprised they do not include in kit --

the large .080" pilot seems to be the most common one for me .. but they make a .062" also -- cutters are interchangeable

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/635539/k-and-m-professional-flash-hole-uniformer-standard-0080

 

[Goobie270]

Thanks everyone for the input. Does anyone know if there is a deburring tool that fits a 0.59 flash hole. That's the size of my flash hole on lapua Palma brass, as I wouldn't want to make the flash hole biger.

 

[Barrelnut]

Look at the 21st Century list on their web site. They have them for smaller flash holes too. I do not deburr Lapua brass since it has no burr. Neither do most of the other more premium cases like Norma and Nosler.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Lapua, Nosler (Norma) flash holes are drilled and deburred from the factory. Also centered properly unlike less expensive brass. Less expensive brass, the flash holes are punched

 

[243winxb]

The Lyman done correctly.

 

[243winxb]

Lyman done by feel.

Do i have proof then this all makes a difference? Nope. I like the way it looks when done correctly.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Lyman done by feel. View attachment 101178 Do i have proof then this all makes a difference? Nope. I like the way it looks when done correctly.

Cheap brass, off center punched flash hole complete with burr from the punch. Winchester or Remington most likely. You do get what you pay for in Nosler, Norma or Lapua. Actually Privi brass is pretty good too but do require an annealing right away.

Proof is in the grouping.

 

[Of001]

New reloader here, working on my first batch of once fired.

I've got the Sinclair, I'm a little confused as to how deep to go besides 'just the burr'.
It has a stop so it can't go too deep, so it says. More of a non-cutting band that bottoms out before it goes too far.

So I chucked it in a drill and went for China, a sold over application of speed, pressure, and rotations. I only did one btw. Looks about the same as 3-4 turns by hand. Maybe about 20%more material removed. Looks way better/uniform than by hand.

Am I wrong to drill them?

 

[Canhunter35]

I'd Just do them by hand. Once the burr is one and the pilot has uniformer the hole, you will be good to go

 

[Mike Matteson]

Like anything else, all depends on personal preference and the depth of your wallet. The Lyman works fine for me but your mileage may vary....

A little off the subject, but love your Rem. drone loads picture. I have RCBS primer hole reamer. I am changing to Redding with different calibers pilots. I feel I can set up and do cases at the same depth. Note the length and record it. Keeping everything for that case the same.

 

[Of001]

I'd Just do them by hand. Once the burr is one and the pilot has uniformer the hole, you will be good to go

Better safe than boom.

But just for the sake of going to the extreme. Would bottoming out, measuring/basing the depth off the inside base of the space be more uniform than with the cone thing on the neck?

This obviously being if the 'stop' band doesn't malform or mark the case when over done.

I'll have to cut my sample cases to check.