First Custom Rifle Build | Tips Appreciated

[VLD Pilot]

22" min barrel length. Your plans may change. Just as staying with an 8 twist would be best if a 140 is ever desired later. Lots of money on a custom. May as well make it as versatile as possible.

 

[nksmfamjp]

1. Barrel Twist Rate: I know the 1:8" twist rate is good for the heavier, 143-grain bullets (Hornady ELD-X). However, my hands-down favorite hunting bullet is Barnes. I plan to shoot either the 120-grain TTSX or the 127-grain LRX bullets. Wondering if I should get the 1:8.5" twist rate to stabilize the lighter Barnes bullets, while also being able to stabilize the 143-grain ELD-X bullets.
2. Action: I know I want to go with a Remington 700 action. I've heard great things about to Defiance actions (very smooth). I would also like to stay lightweight, so I would spring for the Anti-X model. However, I would like opinions on if it is worth spending the extra $600-$1000 on the defiance Anti-X action or should I just stick with a stock Remington 700 stainless short action?
3. Need ideas for a good Trigger Guard and Magazine.
4. Cerakote: I plan to Cerekote the action, bolt, bolt handle, and trigger guard. Any recommendations on a good company to use?

1) typically the all copper bullets, though lighter need same twist rate due to length. I too wonder about the idea of pushing an all copper with the 6.5 creed. I would be thinking 6.5 PRC.

2) Why a Rem 700? People spend too much making these ok, IMO. You might consider Tikka, Howa 1500 for a little cheaper, or the Bighorn Origin for a bit more.

3) So, it seems like in this process many end up with some kind of AICS centerfeed, but I find hunting often feels better with a BDL or short mag like the Tikka.

4) Get it done by a certified applicator at the end of the gunsmith work. I find rifles best with a simple 1-2 color pattern, but I'm boring. I don't want it back without the smith looking at it after finishing. My gunsmith needs to make sure it works after and the coating isn't causing poor feeling.

 

[VLD Pilot]

1. Stick with 1:8
2. Defiance all the way. Standard anti is the way to go.
3. look at Hawkins precision. They have a flush mount dbm or regular dbm.
4. usually your smith has a good handle on this. Check with them.

Stock. Don't rule out the adj. alpine hunter from AG as well. Solid design.

Wish they made that Hawkins hunter in LA.

 

[L.Sherm]

If you go with a Defiance I would consider nitride for the action unless your set on something other than black, my Anti XM is at nitride right now.
I also am gonna put it in a AG stock.

 

[sierracharlie338]

Wish they made that Hawkins hunter in LA.

I've heard they are working on testing it IIRC

 

[VLD Pilot]

I've heard they are working on testing it IIRC

Been hearing that also. Hope it's out by summer

 

[lancetkenyon]

Your thinking on twist rates is backwards. The heavier bullet (or mono) needs a faster twist rate to stabilize. The 1:8" is faster than the 1:8.5". If you are wanting to shoot the 127 LRX, absolutely stick with the 1:8", not the 1:8.5". Meaning the bullet makes a full 360° revolution in the barrel every 8" instead of 8.5". Much better choice. Allows you to shoot a 140-143 also for target shooting. You might even consider a 1:7.5", since the shorter length is going to leave a lot of velocity on the table. Slower velocities also require faster twists to shoot the heavier bullets or monos and stabilize them well.

As for barrel length, unless your can is a 9", I would be looking at a 20" minimum with the 6.5CM. 22" would be even better. You are probably looking at 2800fps max from an 18" barrel with the 127 LRX. My daughter shoots a 22" 6.5SLR, and gets 2925fps suppressed with a 130 Berger OTM. Absolutely slays game. Mule deer bucks from 454, 532, 637, and pronghorn from 260 & 391. She shoots the 127LRX up to 2955fps or the 124 Hammer Hunter at 3001fps. With the lower BCs, 300 yards is a cakewalk, even out to 500. Make sure you get a heavy enough contour to limit barrel sag with the can.

Action, go with the Defiance. Way, WAY lighter than an R700, and the money you would spend on an R700 to bring it up even close would probably be comparable in costs to the Defiance. True and square action, recut threads, side bolt release, M16 extractor, fluted bolt, bolt knob, alloy bolt shroud, firing pin bushing....it adds up very fast to get similar features, plus, you still have an R700 action. Unless you already have the action off a free donor, the Defiance makes way more sense.

Hawkins makes amazing DBM bottom metal.

This is my daughter's 22"+7" can 6.5SLR for length reference against a 20"+9" can 6.5SS.

 

[ModernRedneck]

Your thinking on twist rates is backwards. The heavier bullet (or mono) needs a faster twist rate to stabilize. The 1:8" is faster than the 1:8.5". If you are wanting to shoot the 127 LRX, absolutely stick with the 1:8", not the 1:8.5". Much better choice. Allows you to shoot a 140-143 also for target shooting. You might even consider a 1:7.5", since the shorter length is going to leave a lot of velocity on the table. Slower velocities also require faster twists to shoot the heavier bullets or monos and stabilize them well.

As for barrel length, unless your can is a 9", I would be looking at a 20" minimum with the 6.5CM. 22" would be even better. You are probably looking at 2800fps max from an 18" barrel with the 127 LRX. My daughter shoots a 22" 6.5SLR, and gets 2925fps suppressed with a 130 Berger OTM. Absolutely slays game. Mule deer bucks from 454, 532, 637, and pronghorn from 260 & 391. She shoots the 127LRX up to 2955fps or the 124 Hammer Hunter at 3001fps. With the lower BCs, 300 yards is a cakewalk, even out to 500. Make sure you get a heavy enough contour to limit barrel sag with the can.

Action, go with the Defiance. Way, WAY lighter than an R700, and the money you would spend on an R700 to bring it up even close would probably be comparable in costs to the Defiance. True and square action, recut threads, side bolt release, M16 extractor, fluted bolt, bolt knob, alloy bolt shroud, firing pin bushing....it adds up very fast to get similar features, plus, you still have an R700 action. Unless you already have the action off a free donor, the Defiance makes way more sense.

Hawkins makes amazing DBM bottom metal.

This is my daughter's 22"+7" can 6.5SLR for length reference against a 20"+9" can 6.5SS.
View attachment 234993
View attachment 234994

Good info here. To clarify, I only mentioned the 1:8.5 twist for the 120-grain TTSX bullets, but it seems I'm over thinking this and Injust need to stick with 1:8.
Also, good points on the longer barrel. Most of my hunting shots will be under 300 yards. And when hunting mostly in Mississippi hardwoods, I would like to stick with a shorter barrel. I would just like to stretch out the barrel at longer ranges in the off-season. You're really making me think about just going with the 22".

 

[VLD Pilot]

You won't be handicapped in a woods setting with a 22" over an 18". Both will be lower than your head when slung over shoulder. Mine stays lower than my head when slung and doesn't catch everything overhead in my path.

 

[BrentM]

My hunter creed is a 20" proof barrel and I run it suppressed. I can get 2800 out of a 140 but run 135's at 2800 for a softer load. RL26 in the creed is magic. I don't run this load in my comp rig tho. I run 140's at 2800 but in a 26" barrel.

I think your ideas are great. I went with a Bighorn TL3 as I prefer a chassis and mags. My rifle is 10lbs suppressed in a 6.5 PRC but I can swap out barrels and bolt in 30 mins and have any short action cartridge set up I want.

I run a chassis with folder for much more compact carry in my back pack, eberlestock scabbard style, and run arca swiss rail for mounting to a tripod. Often it is hard to find a good spot to shoot prone. This year my rifle killed 3 deer, 1 wolf, multiple yotes off the tripod. I killed a yote last week at 1124 off that tripod, excellent tool. Just something to consider while setting up your rifle.

 

[ModernRedneck]

Go with the custom action. You will have near that by the time you true it all up, have a better action, and higher resale. Your gunsmith should already have established relationships with someone doing the cerakote. Ask your smith about the bottom metal. Do you want ADl, BDL, DBM? Sounds like your set up to build one fine rifle! Let us know what you decide and how it turns out. I agonized over alot of the details of my first build. I'm also extremely pleased with it and in the end, that's what truly matters.

Thanks! I'm very excited about this rifle build. I'll be going with a DBM.

 

[ModernRedneck]

You won't be handicapped in a woods setting with a 22" over an 18". Both will be lower than your head when slung over shoulder. Mine stays lower than my head when slung and doesn't catch everything overhead in my path.

My thought for the shorter barrel is due to adding a 7.5" can to the front of it. That would put me at 25.5" OAL vs almost 30" OAL with a 22" barrel.

 

[lancetkenyon]

This was a test on Rifleshooter.com

 

[VLD Pilot]

My thought for the shorter barrel is due to adding a 7.5" can to the front of it. That would put me at 25.5" OAL vs almost 30" OAL with a 22" barrel.

If that chart is true, you wouldn't lose much by staying with a 20" barrel. Even an 18. Hard to say which powder was used. I think those results may change depending on the powder used. Only my opinion since I've never done a barrel length test on that cartridge.