Fiberglass inlet need sealing?

[Ol' Red]

Thanks, I did have the firing pin replaced. The funny thing is, the pin that holds the firing pin in the bolt was welded in place! That must have been from the factory as I don’t think my dad ever had it in a shop after he owned it. The GS said it was a pain to get out, but it’s good now.

My Remington 722 was the same. Peter Angelos @ Omega Arms replaced my firing pin after stripping the bolt to have it Melonite Nitrate treated. Welding the pin must have been common.

 

[bomberodevil]

Is that a before or after picture? Did gunsmith use the term welded to express how difficult it was to get out maybe? Welding that pin in, which has no chance of falling out because of its position, would require a lot of finish work to get back the dimensions that it would function correctly. That oblong hole in the firing pin head may cause you some problems down the road.

Those pictures were both taken before the gunsmith removed it and replaced the spring. I can’t remember if he used the actual term welded, but he did say it was the hardest pin he’s ever removed from a bolt.

 

[tobnpr]

My question is, for weather protection, do I need to seal the bare fiberglass where it was sanded? If so, any particular sealing product, or just a clear coat acrylic product?

You should. However, do NOT use polyester fiberglass resin- use epoxy resin such as West System.
Grayboe- like every other manufacturer uses epoxy resins for their stocks.
You can use epoxy resins over polyester- but never the opposite. Polyester resins will not bond to cured epoxy.

 

[bomberodevil]

You should. However, do NOT use polyester fiberglass resin- use epoxy resin such as West System.
Grayboe- like every other manufacturer uses epoxy resins for their stocks.
You can use epoxy resins over polyester- but never the opposite. Polyester resins will not bond to cured epoxy.

How about just a spray on clear coat?

 

[comfisherman]

Are they all epoxy?

 

[tobnpr]

How about just a spray on clear coat?

IMO, would depend on the clear coat- ask Grayboe. If you have exposed strands of fiberglass after opening the barrel channel, the glass needs to be re-sealed otherwise it will break down and de-laminate over time. Sanding/opening the barrel channel will remove the gelcoat used in the molding process. You can tint the epoxy resin to match the stock- an advantage over clear coat.

 

[hesse]

I'd get a hold of the manufacturer and see if they got any sort of touch up product or what they recommend they got to figure that sometimes you got to do a touch of adjustment to get it to fit proper

 

[bomberodevil]

I'd get a hold of the manufacturer and see if they got any sort of touch up product or what they recommend they got to figure that sometimes you got to do a touch of adjustment to get it to fit proper

I followed your advice, and I messaged Grayboe. They responded that their fiberglass doesn't absorb moisture at all, so there's no need to seal it.

 

[comfisherman]

There isn't a resin on the market today that has a water absorption percentage high enough to mean anything, even on an exposed riber like on old school polyester mcmillan or mpi the submerged % is less than a few per decade. So unless you store these things under water or in 100% open humidity its a moot point.

Usually the slurry molded stocks, like greyboe hs and bell and carlson can have some voids, I cover those up but only for cosmetic reasons.