Factory recoil lug bending. Wow !

Alright, my BS meter is about pegged and I'm going to have to vent a bit of my own. I'm no engineer but I do have good measuring equipment and know how to read it. I pointed this issue out a couple years ago and got poo pood the whole way. I don't remember for sure if it was this forum or another but there was a wiener stretching contest going on over grinding factory lugs verses aftermarket lugs. I mentioned I throw away stock lugs and got attacked by the guys with surface grinders. They were bragging up processing bags of stock lugs for their super trued actions and making good money selling them. I demonstrated I can flex a factory lug with my thumb. Even the .250" titanium bends almost as easy as the .187" factory lug. I pointed out that hardened .250" lugs were much stiffer and I was chastised for wasting peoples money. They contended the factory stamped Remington lugs were all a guy needed up through Lapua's.

A drilled lug does not weaken a lug in any way because the hole is not the same plane as the lug is under stress. As far as the hole weakening the action. I say yes but only slightly. The hole in the action is not anywhere near the other weak spots which is near the ejection port or at the corners on the feed hole. Even the scope holes at 12 o'clock have been known to allow cracks through them during catastrophic failure. The double pin lug with the holes at 4 and 8 o'clock seriously weakens a 700 action but it will usually never fail until you have a catastrophic event anyway.

I highly recommend Holland drilled lugs and pinning them to the action. I never use the .010" or more oversized lugs that are promoted by the cnc action truing crowd. That really weakens an action to arbitrarily open it up .010" oversize when usually .003"-.005" is plenty to get a 100% cleanup. I propose that a .250" lug fitted tight to a barrel tennon, void of threads or a thread relief, may offer even better support to the chamber area and further strengthen the entire assembly. This is why we never cut barrel threads on either end to a relief.




A 1.200 barrel shanks offers a little over 1/16" of lug support from the forces of recoil. I really prefer 1.250" shanks and if I was designing barrels I would be pushing 1.350" barrel shanks. Same size as the action on the back side of the lug.

As far as a lug over .250" weakening a stock more than a .200" thick lug; I can't agree or find any logic to support this little cut when less than one inch away the whole stock is cut away leaving less than 1/4" thick vertical walls for four inches to allow for a mag box. That weakens the stock far more than cutting for a lug. I also contend that thicker lugs resist flexing better and load the bedding more even than a thin lug which would be easier on the stock and bedding making it stronger. If anyone was concerned about it (which I am) they would be building single shots with no magwell in the stock or bottom feed ports in the action.

This issue is part of why I like the Mark 5 or Vanguard or better yet single shot custom actions with integral lugs to build on.

Sorry if it sounds confrontational but it's from the heart and not a teleprompter. I love you all.
 
Alright, my BS meter is about pegged and I'm going to have to vent a bit of my own. I'm no engineer but I do have good measuring equipment and know how to read it. I pointed this issue out a couple years ago and got poo pood the whole way. I don't remember for sure if it was this forum or another but there was a wiener stretching contest going on over grinding factory lugs verses aftermarket lugs. I mentioned I throw away stock lugs and got attacked by the guys with surface grinders. They were bragging up processing bags of stock lugs for their super trued actions and making good money selling them. I demonstrated I can flex a factory lug with my thumb. Even the .250" titanium bends almost as easy as the .187" factory lug. I pointed out that hardened .250" lugs were much stiffer and I was chastised for wasting peoples money. They contended the factory stamped Remington lugs were all a guy needed up through Lapua's.

A drilled lug does not weaken a lug in any way because the hole is not the same plane as the lug is under stress. As far as the hole weakening the action. I say yes but only slightly. The hole in the action is not anywhere near the other weak spots which is near the ejection port or at the corners on the feed hole. Even the scope holes at 12 o'clock have been known to allow cracks through them during catastrophic failure. The double pin lug with the holes at 4 and 8 o'clock seriously weakens a 700 action but it will usually never fail until you have a catastrophic event anyway.

I highly recommend Holland drilled lugs and pinning them to the action. I never use the .010" or more oversized lugs that are promoted by the cnc action truing crowd. That really weakens an action to arbitrarily open it up .010" oversize when usually .003"-.005" is plenty to get a 100% cleanup. I propose that a .250" lug fitted tight to a barrel tennon, void of threads or a thread relief, may offer even better support to the chamber area and further strengthen the entire assembly. This is why we never cut barrel threads on either end to a relief.




A 1.200 barrel shanks offers a little over 1/16" of lug support from the forces of recoil. I really prefer 1.250" shanks and if I was designing barrels I would be pushing 1.350" barrel shanks. Same size as the action on the back side of the lug.

As far as a lug over .250" weakening a stock more than a .200" thick lug; I can't agree or find any logic to support this little cut when less than one inch away the whole stock is cut away leaving less than 1/4" thick vertical walls for four inches to allow for a mag box. That weakens the stock far more than cutting for a lug. I also contend that thicker lugs resist flexing better and load the bedding more even than a thin lug which would be easier on the stock and bedding making it stronger. If anyone was concerned about it (which I am) they would be building single shots with no magwell in the stock or bottom feed ports in the action.

This issue is part of why I like the Mark 5 or Vanguard or better yet single shot custom actions with integral lugs to build on.

Sorry if it sounds confrontational but it's from the heart and not a teleprompter. I love you all.


We rarely disagree, and on most of your post I totally agree so to keep it from being an argument
I will just say I disagree on some of your points.

First= I, like you never use the factory lugs for many reasons. They are never perfectly flat. they are also a minimum thickness and some brands are very soft (Mild steel, Not chrome molly)

I also agree that grinding the factory lug only weakens it more and the cost, If you don't have the equipment is more than a new aftermarket chrome or stainless lug.

The other issues you mentioned I will have to disagree with you and state that it is simply a difference of opinion.

This is my logic on the other issues = If you remove more wood/material from the stock that is necessary, the stock is weaken.

If a recoil lug is drilled to pen it to the action it is not as strong as it would be without the drilled hole because it is located at the normal bending moment of the lug.

The same goes for drilling the receiver. The drilled hole runs along the center line of the action reducing the hoop strength of the receiver ring.

Obviously, if the tools are available to install a recoil lug without drilling and pining are available, then drilling, and pining is not necessary, so why do it.

I don't believe that anyone can state just how much these modifications actually weakens the recoil lug, the receiver, or the stock. I sure cant, So my logic is simple, why remove any material from any part that is not necessary.

As to lug thickness, A well made recoil lug of the proper material doesn't need to be .300 thousandths thick to handle the recoil of any rifle if installed correctly in my opinion. I have never came across a .187 Remington recoil lug that was bent. but I still replace it with at least a .200 lug
or more. better material and thicker lugs assure there will be no issues with the recoil lug and I don't worry about it being strong enough.

So as stated, This is just my opinion and the fact that it differs with others is nothing more that different opinions and we are all entitled to our opinions. Only a few factory rifles have pined lugs
and it is for ease of assembly at the factory, and all the rest use un pined or integral lugs.

Just my opinions and beliefs

J E CUSTOM
 
No. 1. Pillar Bedding, and the flexible Remington receiver.
This link leads to an explanation that shows (To my satisfaction anyway) how little pressure it takes to bend metal. In the photos with the receiver in the lathe it shows how little pressure it takes to deflect a 700 receiver. I can see how someone could easily deflect a recoil lug with thumb pressure. Dial indicator does not lie.
My current Remington 700 build is getting a pinned Holland recoil lug
Cheers.
BTL
 
No. 1. Pillar Bedding, and the flexible Remington receiver.
This link leads to an explanation that shows (To my satisfaction anyway) how little pressure it takes to bend metal. In the photos with the receiver in the lathe it shows how little pressure it takes to deflect a 700 receiver. I can see how someone could easily deflect a recoil lug with thumb pressure. Dial indicator does not lie.
My current Remington 700 build is getting a pinned Holland recoil lug
Cheers.
BTL


In My opinion, there are many things wrong with this test and for sake of the debate I will explain My point on this.

1st = any action will flex if not held in place properly. I for sure would not shoot any rifle with surgical tubing holding it on so this is not a real world test. the purpose of pillar bedding and torqueing the action is to prevent or minimize any or all deflection during firing by using the stocks strength in addition to the actions strength. also, recoil energy is vectored along the barrel center line unless an outside force is applied so the action does not see much if any bending moment if everything in done right.

Also bending the recoil had nothing to do with any flexing of the action. just improper contact with the recoil surfaces, soft lug material and inline force applied backwards without and normal restraint

You could do the same (Make a 1'' barrel deflect if it was held on one end and pressure was applied to the end with a dial indicator touching it there would be some deflection show on the indicator.

All material will flex by some amount if an uneven load is applied to it. But it takes a great deal more to reach the yield strength and "bend" the receiver or the lug where it would not return to its original shape, which is what the original poster encountered and was curious about why it happened.

As to pinning a recoil lug, that is your right and even though it is not recommended or necessary, and will weaken the action and the lug it is your responsibility for any weakness you build in.

If you can "Bend" a recoil lug with your hands (No vice and hammer) I stand corrected.

J E CUSTOM
 
I did not intend any readers to reference the receiver in the stock with surgical tubing photos. I was directing attention to the photos of the receiver secured in the lathe. I am not a metalurgist, nor did I spend the night at a Holiday Inn last night so my reference to my attached link may be akin to comparing apples to oranges. I just thought that since a properly heat treated receiver can "deflect" with as little as 4 lb feet of force, (I know I can push a lot harder than 4lbs feet with my thumb) a cheap factory recoil lug would probably "deflect" more with the same amount of force. If an old as from the factory non bedded rifle was torqued into a wood stock and left with the recoil lug improperly supported, I would imagine that factory recoil lug could take a set in a bent position. Again I am just an ordinary guy looking at this with a laymans eye.
I also have no affiliation with the OP who started this thread, or with anyone who has made any comments in it.
Plus I am sipping on my second Scotch!
Again, Cheers!
 
When I said bending I actually ment permanent deformation which is different than simple deflection.
 
Yes you'd hope so.

Maybe not this case but sometimes I think sometimes guys just read the very last post.
 
So, on a different rife...
I relaced the factory lug with a .235" machined, hardened lug on a 6.5-284 that had a supposed bad barrel. I milled the front of an Accustock to fit the lug and cut the lug to fit the sides of the accustock.
I rolled up a load that shot good when the barrel was new then went to +1moa. I guess the barrel might not be bad after all,lol.

Shot at 200 yards in 15-20 mph full value wind from my hunting bag not a bench rest. All shots with the same point of aim regardless of the wind speed at the time.
 

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So, on a different rife...
I relaced the factory lug with a .235" machined, hardened lug on a 6.5-284 that had a supposed bad barrel. I milled the front of an Accustock to fit the lug and cut the lug to fit the sides of the accustock.
I rolled up a load that shot good when the barrel was new then went to +1moa. I guess the barrel might not be bad after all,lol.

Shot at 200 yards in 15-20 mph full value wind from my hunting bag not a bench rest. All shots with the same point of aim regardless of the wind speed at the time.

Little things do make a difference don't they.

I'm glad you got it shooting.

J E CUSTOM
 
Years ago I was working with a stress engineer at an aerospace factory. That was when aftermarket lugs first were in vogue. These lugs were in the theam of "if a little is good, then too much is just right" The lugs were more than double what a factory Remington lug would have been, all the way to .5". I had him run some numbers on a factory lug to see what it would take to bend it. I have long sense forgotten the numbers but his comment has stuck with me, "you would have a broken shoulder long before you bent that lug".
That was based on 100% contact (which goes to earlier post about proper bedding). I do think that aftermarket lugs do have there place in that that are ground flat and parallel, but based on what that guy calculated, I am fine with factory thickness.
 
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