i recently purchased a takeoff Remington 700 vssf ii barrel. The problem is that the factory markings are not aligning correctly to my receiver. My ocd want everything to look factory again. Suggestions?
Factory barrel
- Thread starter Brent Harbaugh
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J E Custom
Well-Known Member
It is a simple matter to time the barrel by taking a little off the shoulder until it times in. You can take as much as one thread in length (1/16th) off the shoulder without affecting strength. but if you take over .010 you will probably have to re cut the breach face and re set the head space by reaming the chamber.
If you are changing cartridges to something else, you can rotate the barrel ID under the stock and re mark the barrel with the correct barrel/cartridge ID.
If it head spaces without any machining, you will be better off leaving it alone.
J E CUSTOM
If you are changing cartridges to something else, you can rotate the barrel ID under the stock and re mark the barrel with the correct barrel/cartridge ID.
If it head spaces without any machining, you will be better off leaving it alone.
J E CUSTOM
Thanks for the reply, it looks like your a gunsmith, is this a project you would be willing to take on? I have no Smith in my area and would have to ship it out anyway.
J E Custom
Well-Known Member
I am currently booked through this year, but there are many good Smiths on this site. One that I know personally is in/near Tulsa OK. and goes by shortgrass on this site. I would trust him with any of my rifles.
PM him and see what his schedule is.
J E CUSTOM
MNbogboy
Well-Known Member
I agree with JE, if it headspaces correctly now, I would leave it alone.
The location of the roll marks on a barrel are specific to the rifle they came from. The safety of correct headspacing checked with go & no-go gauges are what is important after a swap.
The location of the roll marks on a barrel are specific to the rifle they came from. The safety of correct headspacing checked with go & no-go gauges are what is important after a swap.
Wahnter
Member
I really recommend making sure that barrel is headspaced correctly. They are not simply a "plug and play" item. While is does happen occasionally I sure wouldn't rely on it. If you aren't able to to this work yourself my best advice would be to send it to someone.
BallisticsGuy
Well-Known Member
^^ This. At least grab a no-go gauge and see if the bolt closes on it. If it does, get thee to a gunsmithery.
Doug Herold
Well-Known Member
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J E,
Thank you for tagging in. I always appreciate your input and the knowledge that you share.
One can accomplish the same thing with using several different factory loaded rounds. If the bolt does not want to close on them.....THEN consider the expense of head spacing. But - frankly, rifles today come from the factory shooting pretty darned good. Not PRS good...but plenty good enough for hunting. SO - it depends on how anal, and caught up in the minutia of "seeking perfection" one wants. Both have their place. Fixed position target shooting - especially at long range - SURE! Hunting...no...there are too many variables in the field beyond the control of the hunter or the rifle.
Practice, practice practice FIRST....fidget with it later - IF you are not confident of taking game with it.
***END SERMON***
J E Custom
Well-Known Member
You are welcome Doug.
A good example of why take off barrels are not always the best bargain considering the amount of work that may need to be done. If a person is able to do the necessary work, they are sometimes a big savings, but is most cases it is cheaper to go with a custom barrel and accuracy is less of a risk.
I have had some take offs that only needed the chamber dressed up to shoot well, but again you need to be able to do the work your self to come out ahead.
Hope it works out for you.
J E CUSTOM
In the absence of a go gauge, I concur that you can do an adequate "safety check" of headspace by stripping the bolt and using factory rounds. If the bolt closes with light resistance, you can stop there. Not closing, smith time.
Closes with no resistance, add a closely-trimmed piece of cellophane packing tape (.002-.003 thick) to the casehead and try again. If you can add more than two layers before resistance on closing the bolt, the shoulder will need to be set back and chamber deepened.
Do not force the bolt when closing as it's easy to force a few thousandths with brass (even with ground/hardened gauges will give a false indication if excessive force is applied when closing the bolt). For me, ideal is when the bolt handle falls most of the way, then very light resistance to close fully into battery- as good as it'll get.
Closes with no resistance, add a closely-trimmed piece of cellophane packing tape (.002-.003 thick) to the casehead and try again. If you can add more than two layers before resistance on closing the bolt, the shoulder will need to be set back and chamber deepened.
Do not force the bolt when closing as it's easy to force a few thousandths with brass (even with ground/hardened gauges will give a false indication if excessive force is applied when closing the bolt). For me, ideal is when the bolt handle falls most of the way, then very light resistance to close fully into battery- as good as it'll get.
MNbogboy
Well-Known Member
Loose headspace can be adjusted with recoil lug thickness adjustment also. Usually done on a surface grinder.
Tight headspace can be adjusted with a thicker lug ground accordingly.
Tight headspace can be adjusted with a thicker lug ground accordingly.
