Honestly, buy whatever fits your budget and train, train, train. The military uses the lowest bidder and those rifles keep functioning somehow (mine were all FN stamped). You don't need a noveske, seekins, Daniel defense, etc... to get the job done.
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Entry Level AR 15 for first time buyers
- Thread starter richard33
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jvr
Well-Known Member
Lots of opinions. Buy a dd 14.5 with pinned QUALITY flash hider and call it a day. Runs great. Light weight. Small muzzle flash and your set. Solid resale value too.
Budget is a major factor here. Do you have AR experience behind the trigger to be able to know what you like and don't like? The advise to define your use/purpose is the very first decision to make. If you don't have that down, I would agree with locating a complete rifle or at least complete upper and go from there. Just building one is easy, building one that fits your needs is a different thing. If you can find them, POF USA stuff is super good for the money. I would skip the piston stuff and go DI. I have a couple of their products, one complete rifle and one of their uppers. Ive shot Spikes, Danial Defense, and many lower tier rifles. All of them worked and did the job but the job is the first thing to consider. This is definitely not a time when you are going to save any money so biting the bullet and getting something good is going to be spendy.
Stay away from junk like this. https://www.sarcoinc.com/ar15-m16-parts-kit-flat-top-optics-ready-kit/
You are not a friend telling someone to buy this. You don't even want to go down the junk rabbit hole. They never shoot a good group because everything is cheap junk.
You buy an upper or a barrel with free floating front hand guard. That way the barrel is held on really well to the upper receiver with a big barrel nut. 1:9 twist or possibly 8 twist never 7 twist. most barrel manufactures tell you a barrel weight. The gas block size is an indicator of barrel weight. .750 gas block size is your medium weight. .625 are really light weight. I have 18 and 20 inch barrels in both sizes. I've got away from barrels with threaded ends. It just adds length putting on a flash hider or muzzle brake M-lok hand guards are the some of the best.
I buy forged everything upper and lowers. I've got away from the phoney forward assist type uppers. These are much lighter and trouble free.
andersonmanufacturing.com
This is a quality piston type rifle 20 inch match SS barrel titanium muzzle brake 9 twist Hogue rubber grips and stock. 3 pound drop in trigger dime sized groups at 200 yards using a lead sled to sight it in.
You are not a friend telling someone to buy this. You don't even want to go down the junk rabbit hole. They never shoot a good group because everything is cheap junk.
You buy an upper or a barrel with free floating front hand guard. That way the barrel is held on really well to the upper receiver with a big barrel nut. 1:9 twist or possibly 8 twist never 7 twist. most barrel manufactures tell you a barrel weight. The gas block size is an indicator of barrel weight. .750 gas block size is your medium weight. .625 are really light weight. I have 18 and 20 inch barrels in both sizes. I've got away from barrels with threaded ends. It just adds length putting on a flash hider or muzzle brake M-lok hand guards are the some of the best.
I buy forged everything upper and lowers. I've got away from the phoney forward assist type uppers. These are much lighter and trouble free.
AM-15 Anodized Sport Upper Receiver, No Forward Assist or Dust Cover
No Forward Assist or Dust Cover
andersonmanufacturing.com
This is a quality piston type rifle 20 inch match SS barrel titanium muzzle brake 9 twist Hogue rubber grips and stock. 3 pound drop in trigger dime sized groups at 200 yards using a lead sled to sight it in.
lyle2231
Well-Known Member
I recommend getting a White Oak Armament upper. Mr Holliger is a 1st class AR builder and offers complete uppers. Obtain a lower off of GB, put 'em together. HTH
ntsqd
Well-Known Member
We can all point to our favorite high end parts to use in a build, but that's not what the OP asked for. Specifically: "Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas about where I could know how to build a gun for entry level usages?"
When I suggested the ALG ACT trigger I was considering the Return on Investment for the OP. It's a little more cost, but the change is huge as most of those LPK triggers are truly atrocious. Some of the suggestions are a large increase in cost. Granted they too will make a huge difference, but the key point is Entry Level Usages and for this use the ROI on those suggestions isn't there.
My wife can ping the 36" gong at 300 yards off-hand at our local range nearly at will with her PSA built M4 upper (complete with it's 1/7 twist light weight 16" barrel and CAR type hand guards) on an M&P lower with mostly generic parts in it. It has a Sabre Tube butt because her stature is such that it provides her with the ideal LOP, and the ACT trigger. A $125 Bushnell 1-4x in a Burris one-piece mount is the current sight set-up. Other than those parts it is a simple, generic build.
I've since moved away from the Sabre Tubes for me because they're just too short for me. Instead I'm using the Ace Skeleton Stock because the PRK's nannies don't allow those dangerous collapsible stocks.
When I suggested the ALG ACT trigger I was considering the Return on Investment for the OP. It's a little more cost, but the change is huge as most of those LPK triggers are truly atrocious. Some of the suggestions are a large increase in cost. Granted they too will make a huge difference, but the key point is Entry Level Usages and for this use the ROI on those suggestions isn't there.
My wife can ping the 36" gong at 300 yards off-hand at our local range nearly at will with her PSA built M4 upper (complete with it's 1/7 twist light weight 16" barrel and CAR type hand guards) on an M&P lower with mostly generic parts in it. It has a Sabre Tube butt because her stature is such that it provides her with the ideal LOP, and the ACT trigger. A $125 Bushnell 1-4x in a Burris one-piece mount is the current sight set-up. Other than those parts it is a simple, generic build.
I've since moved away from the Sabre Tubes for me because they're just too short for me. Instead I'm using the Ace Skeleton Stock because the PRK's nannies don't allow those dangerous collapsible stocks.
redneckdan
Well-Known Member
Entry level for what purpose? Entry level range blasting will be different from entry level across the course which is different from entry level diffensive rifle.
ntsqd
Well-Known Member
I see entry level range blasting/plinking and entry level defensive as being pretty much the same rifle and I think that my suggestions apply. However, entry level 3 Gun or Across the Course is a whole different rifle and none of my suggestions apply, but the White Oak Arms suggestion does.
OP, can you clarify what your intended use is a bit better?
OP, can you clarify what your intended use is a bit better?
The benefit of building both the AR upper and lower is that the builder better understands how the parts relate and function, and how to repair any issues. Cannot beat hands on experience. Beats "reading about it" or watching YouTube videos. Knowledge is power.
rewiltshire
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2012
- Messages
- 198
The one I built years ago has been a great rifle. Not pretty, but shoots straight. What I started with was a Sarco 'parts kit' from a decommissioned Vietnam era M16A2 rifle. It was my first attempt at building one and I will admit I did have to purchase some extra detentes, but I learned how to get them in with out shooting them across the room. The complete rifle was about $450. I have built more 'impressive' rifles/carbines since. To this day I still shoot that old A2 in my clubs competition, and in a lot of cases beat out high dollar guns. But again maybe I was just lucky and got a good kit from Sarco.Stay away from junk like this. https://www.sarcoinc.com/ar15-m16-parts-kit-flat-top-optics-ready-kit/
You are not a friend telling someone to buy this. You don't even want to go down the junk rabbit hole. They never shoot a good group because everything is cheap junk.
You buy an upper or a barrel with free floating front hand guard. That way the barrel is held on really well to the upper receiver with a big barrel nut. 1:9 twist or possibly 8 twist never 7 twist. most barrel manufactures tell you a barrel weight. The gas block size is an indicator of barrel weight. .750 gas block size is your medium weight. .625 are really light weight. I have 18 and 20 inch barrels in both sizes. I've got away from barrels with threaded ends. It just adds length putting on a flash hider or muzzle brake M-lok hand guards are the some of the best.
I buy forged everything upper and lowers. I've got away from the phoney forward assist type uppers. These are much lighter and trouble free.
AM-15 Anodized Sport Upper Receiver, No Forward Assist or Dust Cover
No Forward Assist or Dust Cover
This is a quality piston type rifle 20 inch match SS barrel titanium muzzle brake 9 twist Hogue rubber grips and stock. 3 pound drop in trigger dime sized groups at 200 yards using a lead sled to sight it in.
View attachment 226829
The first photo cost $450, the second is a F class rifle good for 1000 yards, but I have closer to $4000 in it so I don't think it would classify as 'entry level'. And like I said, it was a good place to start and learn about all the parts of the AR15/M16/M4 at an reasonable expense.
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I bought one of these years ago just to try out prairie dog hunting. 24 inch bull for extended shooting periods. Before I ever shot it I spent hours with a bore cleaning snake polishing out the barrel with liquid chrome wheel polish. That way the barrel doesn't need a break in period. I loaded up a couple thousand 75 gr hpbts and sighted it in with a 8X32 power 60mm scope and went hunting. Heavy, but very accurate. Oh I did put on a 2.5 pound drop in trigger
Anderson Predator AR-15, Semi-Automatic, 5.56 NATO/.223 Remington, 24" Stainless Barrel
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rewiltshire
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2012
- Messages
- 198
Started with a Sun Devil milled billet upper and lower. Used a Geiselle SSA trigger system. The barrel is a 24" Black Hole bull barrel in .264 LBR-AR (Les refused to pay the copyright fee for the name 6.5 Grendell) with an adjustable gas block. The BCG is from JP Enterprises. The weight was getting up there so I went with a carbon fiber front tube and an Ace skeletonized stock. Tried different scopes, but ended up with a Nighforce atop a 20 MOA base. Because of the weight I named it 'The Pig'. But that little puny round will really surprise you
