Electric Measures and electric scales ?

[Johnny05]

Years ago, I bought the pact setup, for multiple reasons at the time. I did go to the V4 a couple years ago. When I got the pact, I wasn't convinced of its accuracy, so I set up my trusty old beam scale on the granite countertop, and would double weigh every charge. I would get small discrepancies very often, my guess was around the 65-70 % range, every time I could trace it to the beam scale.
With that said, the V4 with the " lab" scale, as everyone here that has one knows, is irreplaceable in my opinion. I would never go without a forester co-ax, a Good lab style scale, and the thumblers tumbler with SS pins.

 

[Mark37082]

I have a big desk drawer full of relatively cheap e-scales and a beam scale that hasn't been used in a long time. I still use the old RCBS manual powder thrower and their manual trickler. The FX120i is a big investment, but the confidence and accuracy it delivers is worth every penny. I'm still a slow loader, but this doesn't bother me. I have found I can compromise on speed with my setup, but precision is never an issue with a high quality scale like the FX120i.

 

[berger21]

I bought a Frankfort e scale and own a 50 year old rcbs beam scale. I'm going back to beam scale as the electronics want to draft. I'm retired and have lots of free time.

 

[Horse1]

I've got a Lyman DPS II thrower/digital scale combo. My negative zero is -109.8gn and that's the number I watch. If it gets wonky it's almost always a few kernels have gotten under the pad for the pan. My air-compressor is nearby so usually a squirt or two of high pressure air gets things back to normal. I am Jonesing a Supertrickler and I suspect I'll scratch that itch reasonably soon.

Ball powders I throw with a Dillon or Harrells.

I've got a couple of 10-10's and a 304 Dial-O-Grain I use for spot-checking the Lyman, Dillon's, and Harrells.

 

[Philward]

When I'm loading I usually charge all the cases and then seat bullets. How many charge a case and then load the bullet while waiting for the next charge to trickle? That sounds like a good method with an auto trickler.

I use a powder thrower and beam scale with hand trickler, usually the thrower is set to less than 0.1g low and I trickle up, usually just a few kernels.

 

[nksmfamjp]

I've used a couple of electronic scales. They all drift. The Hornady I have is terrible. Back to dropping and trickling on an old ohaus scale. I do low volume hunting loads so it's not a deal breaker. The chargemaster may be enough for some folks. With a few mods they do ok. The new setups with the lab balance scales are the way to go if you want speed and accuracy.

One thing I'll add is I have a trickle set up and I set the charge master to about .2 below my target and I'll trickle up. That way if it throws an over charge it's generally right on.

I bought a Frankfort e scale and own a 50 year old rcbs beam scale. I'm going back to beam scale as the electronics want to draft. I'm retired and have lots of free time.

Seems like there are a lot of comments about drift. Drift is a thing on strain gage scales. Wear and dust are a think on mechanicals. Life happens.

Check weights are a huge value in seeing this drift. That helps a person separate the wheat from the chaf.

I have a strain gage scale. Call me cheap. I have no drift. How? I did some process development with check weights.

Strain gage scales like my TRX-925 scale can drift. It has anti-drift programming at zero and any stable weight and around zero. If I weigh something, it will weigh it correct and hold that weight with without drift. If I leave it weighing 0, it will hold that for days. It doesn't warm up either. It is always "on". Only the display turns off.

If I weigh something, take it off, add or subtract a weight above zero, I will eventually show some drift pattern. So, how do I eliminate drift?

I remove pan from zero's scale. I dump powder in it. I place on the scale. I trickle up to a target weight. I remove pan and charge the case. I place the pan back on scale allowing it to zero which corrects drift. I have proven this process doesn't show drift with check weights and this scale.

 

[fseaman.js]

Seems like there are a lot of comments about drift. Drift is a thing on strain gage scales. Wear and dust are a think on mechanicals. Life happens.

Check weights are a huge value in seeing this drift.

I used to use eScales for work separate from reloading. Needed pretty high resolution and precision. Learned some things to apply to reloading.

I use a high precision auto e-Scales with auto-trickler as well as an RCBS ChargeMaster and my Dillon 650 thrower.

I found a few things with eScales for reloading.
1) don't leave your pan on the scale when not in use. It changes the readings and makes #2 take longer.
2) they will "float" around until they have been on a while. I give it about 1/2 hour to stabilize. Don't leave them on "forever", that is worse.
3) they are sensitive to temperature changes. Do your best to have them in a stable environment.

 

[nksmfamjp]

I used to use eScales for work separate from reloading.

Can you share a link?

 

[fseaman.js]

Can you share a link?

What do you mean?

 

[Marky_mark]

I have a supertrickler with my fx120 and it works great, fast and extremely accurate