E. R. Shaw barrels

[Muddyboots]

Another Shaw barrel that shoots extremely well on a 1966 Savage 110.

Optics? Base and rings? Change out to try different optics?

Stock torqued to specs?

Any interest in trying a Hammer 90HHT or 104HHT? They usually shoot well and rated for 1:7tw.

 

[cajun]

I've never had a shaw barrel. But their rep is not as good as say Brux or Bartlien. With that being said not every barrel from even the best companies is a hummer. Some are just ok. Some are bummers. I think the likely hood of getting a bummer is less with the better barrel makers. I have done 3 criterions. 2 are really good one is struggling to hold moa. You may burn up a lot of components and find a load that shoots but from my experience if the barrel is that picky it's not likely. I would scope it. See if you can see something obvious.

 

[VinceMule]

I have played around with Re bored barrels and budget barrels for p. dogs, chucks, and short range coyotes(300 and less).

I think of it like this, out of 10 barrels, 6 will work to the accuracy standard for your application, with 4 being a pain in the arss, being rough inside requiring more cleaning, or inaccurate requiring more load development. It is an absolute disaster when you get a bad barrel, many trips to the rifle range with many dollars spent on components.

I have chambered my last cheap barrel due to 4 nightmares in the last few years with a couple of different makers. Also, you can get a bad top-drawer barrel that is rough as heck inside, so service after the sale is critical for me.

The two Shaw barrels I have had were good for short-range deer hunting, they are rougher than top drawer barrels, and a Sunen hone machine is not used on them to make sure the bore is uniform from front to back to the 0.0001. Everyone that I have known over the years who has used Shaw to chamber a barrel has had excellent results with 1" groups being about average.

What one guy calls a good barrel another calls a tomato stake.

Brux, Krieger, ABC, Hart, and Muller, are my barrel choices, and the Hell that I went through trying to get those bad barrels to shoot 1/2" groups is enough to make me appreciate the quality and anticipated groups that will be shot with the above barrels.

 

[std7mag]

Alas, there are good barrels and bad barrels from every manufacturer.

I know a lot of people thumb their noses at makers like ER Shaw & Douglas.
My friend and I count ourselves lucky that we've had good results with both.

One thing I will note. It sounds like you are a benchrest or F Class shooter. The 1.25 straight barrel gives you away.

These aren't Shilen or Brux barrels. They tend to be a little rough.
Clean the carbon out, but leave the copper in the barrel alone. It's a hunting rifle, not a match rifle.
Your not going to be doing fouling shots when you're hunting.

I have 2 Rugers that don't settle down until I get about 50 rounds through them.

This is an ER Shaw over run special $100. 24" sporter in 250 Savage screwed onto a Savage Axis II action.
75gr Sierra HP Varmint over a charge of Alliant Varmint. Distance 200 meters. Wind caught me out on the last shot.

 

[VinceMule]

I have had good luck with Green Mountain barrels also, you have to be realistic about your expectations. Some years ago, we were buying Adams and Bennett barrels for $50 each, we shot out a lot of them on varmints. We learned some advanced cleaning and bore lapping methods to help them out.