Duramaxx Stock Bedding......Anybody

Ramses II

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Feb 8, 2005
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Anybody glassbed a Duramaxx stock? I just got one for my Savage 10FP-LE2, it's nice (surely an improvement over the factory). But is seems a little brittle. I understand it is really high density foam. I don't want to bed this stock and then have it crack. Any suggestions?

Anybody glassbed one? If so, what parts did you bed?

Ramses II
 
Ramses II,

I just fitted one to a Lilja barreled 300 RUM and would not recommend bedding the rifle. When I fitted the barrel channel for the #8 Lilja barrel I found that the stock is simply what appears to be a painted injection molded stock. It looked and cut identically to the Savage factory synthetic stocks I have opened up.

While the paint would help the epoxy bond better, the paint may well seperate from the stock under stress.

The rifle I mentioned printed groups in the mid .3" range without bedding and that was with a 30" barrel hanging off the end of the receiver totally floated.

They are much stiffer then the factory stocks but I feel this is more design then materials used to make them.

One thing to always remember with the savage rifles and bedding them. Even if you do not bed the stock, make certain that the rear receiver tang does not touch the stock. This is critical to get top accuracy in the Savage rifles.

The stock I fitted contacted very solidly and so it was slightly milled out to float the tang. You do not want much behind the rear action screw touching the stock.

Good Shooting!!

Kirby Allen(50)
 
Kirby,
That is some great info!! THANKS!!

I just got the stock. I like the look, but It looks like I will have to get out the dremel to fit a few areas. I will pay particular attention to the tang area. Should I use a thin piece of paper to ensure the tang is not touching the rear of the stock??

As you are aware the rear action screw hole needs to be drilled. I don't have a drill press, but I have a a rifle clamp (two clamps) Any recomendations on how to properly drill the rear action screw hole. I'm new to all this and I don't want to screw up the stock. Thanks again,

Ramses II
 
Ramses II

Use a THICK piece of paper like an index card or something like that. We want a little clearance here. We don't want that think to touch ever during firing and if you don't think things are flexing all over hell when the rifle is fired you are wrong.

If you can pass an index card under the tang and run it up both sides freely then you are in good shape. Be sure the rear of the tang is floated as well.

This is easiest to do with the trigger pulled but that can be a pain to get back together if your not used to Savage triggers and how they go back together. Just make sure the total tang is floated.

As far as the screw hole goes. This will be one of the few times you see me type this so pay attention here. "It does not have to be perfect" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif!!!

What I mean is that we are drilling a hold for basically a deep threaded wood screw if you will. Make sure your drill bit produces enough clearance for the body of the screw to clear. I generally give them a few thou of clearance over the min diameter of the screw. NOT THE OUTSIDE DIAMETER!

If you go to small on your pilot hole, you will craack teh stock when you screw in the screw.

I way I drill mind is to use my floor press, swing the support arm out of the way, turn the press on and holding the stock with both hands level as possible I basically raise the stock into the turning drill bit and drill the hole.

Again this does not have to be perfectly true as we are only holding the trigger guard on. Get it as close as possible but if you are relatively steady with a hand drill and you can get the stock in a sturdy fixed position you will not have much of a problem.

Selecting the proper size drill bit is important though.

Good Shooting!!

Kirby Allen (50)
 
Hey Kirby,
do you have any pics of a propery floated tang. I'll be able to diretly see (on th eoutside anyway)
Thanks Again for the great advice and help!
 
I just shipped that rifle this morning. Sorry!

The key is to float it totally but not to make it look like you did it with a back hoe!!!

If you can get an index card between the tang and the stock with no effort, you are there. Only remove what is needed and leave the rest for good looks.

Good SHooting!!

Kirby Allen(50)
 
Kirby,
Thanks for the help man. I fitted it this weekend, and I think it went well. I can fit thick photo paper between the tang and stock. No she won't win any awards, but it looks pretty good for a first try. Now, to seee how it shoots /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif. Thanks again!

Ramses II
 
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