Dry Aged White Tail Leg for Mother's Day

[epags]

BTW - TSA might look at you weird, but there is no law against traveling domestically (Rapid City to VA) with a limit of intact dead pheasants in your checked bag. I haven't tried carry on.

I have done it with a whole frozen salmon from AK to CA

 

[JTComfort]

I have done it with a whole frozen salmon from AK to CA

Probably good that it was frozen!!

 

[BillLarson]

Some game books talk about it, but I've never seen anything really codified. I have written about it and made some posts in various forums. After reading Steve Rinella's "Scavenger's Guide to Haute Cuisine" in 2006, I tossed around a book idea and even proposed a Food Network program. I erred by pursuing the culinary route - FoodNetwork doesn't really do guns or death. I've heard Steve touch on it, but I haven't read his more recent books. I am guessing that it's such a niche interest that there's not a lot of market value in talking about it at length. Culturally, our consumption of wild game is so low that a conversation about antiquated handling practices from Old Europe is just not interesting and Steve seems to be playing to a different crowd these days.

"Larousse Gastronomique" - first published in 1938 discussed the technique, but does not state exact times. "Until it develops a marked smell" or "until the breast turns green" these are extremes, but not beyond the realm. Ground game (hares and such) are noted as being hung for 2-4 days. On birds, woodcock are said to require the longest aging, but no specifics other than not "drawn" (feathers on, guts in). Poorly shot game is dismissed as not suitable for aging. For really elevated recipes for game, go to Europe - French or Spanish contemporary chefs - they have the culture for market hunting. And Escoffier can not be beat for the true classics of French cuisine. Fergus Henderson in Nose to Tail Eating has a number of good recipes for game birds and offal. Mark Miller in Coyote Cafe has some tremendous recipes for game that are modern and reflect the desert southwest. .

I post and share what I know largely because I don't see or hear much about it in the mainstream. I'd like to think that I might inspire someone else as I was inspired. The results are very rewarding and the process is arcane. I can tell you truthfully that to the many non-cook/non-hunters that I have served well aged game, most will acknowledge they've never had game like it.

BTW - TSA might look at you weird, but there is no law against traveling domestically (Rapid City to VA) with a limit of intact dead pheasants in your checked bag. I haven't tried carry on.

Thank You for posting and discussing topic...
I am somewhat of a survivalist and the day may come this knowledge could save lives...
Thanks again and good hunting...

 

[Triple BB]

A friend has a small walk in cooler. We were able to change the temps and aged a deer for 18 days. It was the most tender deer I've ever eaten. However the texture of the meat was soft and it didn't chew like meat. Ended up burgering all of it. Won't ever do that again…

 

[JTComfort]

A friend has a small walk in cooler. We were able to change the temps and aged a deer for 18 days. It was the most tender deer I've ever eaten. However the texture of the meat was soft and it didn't chew like meat. Ended up burgering all of it. Won't ever do that again…

Sorry to hear about your unsatisfactory results. So many factors in-play. Final preparation makes a difference and aged game is not to everyone's taste. A lot of people note that the meat can taste "metallic" if overcooked and I would agree, it's off-putting.

 

[JTComfort]

Thank You for posting and discussing topic...
I am somewhat of a survivalist and the day may come this knowledge could save lives...
Thanks again and good hunting...

You're welcome. I've been playing around with pressure canning venison as well. A friend in PA does a lot of canned venison - perfect for that late-night snack or breakfast venison hash.

 

[Treeslug]

Twas Mother's Day eve supper for 11. Bone-in leg was from a white tail doe, aged whole for 21 days. Leg was dry rubbed and marinated for a day then indirect smoked over charcoal and mesquite for 4.5 hours - until 125F internal temp was reached. Allowed to rest for a hour before carving. Served it with charred scallion/jalapeno relish. Well worth the wait to get the family together for these "whole-beast roasts."

Sorry, it took me so long to reply. My new Chihuahua puppy jumped up on my computer and pushed a bunch of keys and shut down my email for the last 3or4 days.

While I am not a trained chef, I did own a bar-b-que restaurant for a while. I am a meat cooking kinda-a-man. You have talked me into clearing out one side of my refrigerator (spare one in the garage) and hanging a hind quarter for three weeks. That will have to wait until this fall but in the meantime, I will practice with some feral hogs. Thanks for the great information and inspiration.

 

[JTComfort]

TS - definitely support the hanging quarter as a first go. I would add a couple of suggestions if doing only the quarter. IF you decided to go with skin-on, then cut the hoof and wash/dry the hide thoroughly. Salt the exposed flesh and cover with cheesecloth. If you decide to hand with hide-off, wash the whole leg in vinegar, then salt water and wrap in cheese cloth. You will lose some flesh when you finally trim. Aging as a quarter, with hide off will take less than 3 weeks. Check every-other day with the touch test (thumbprint springs back but not 100%) should look great in 14 days.

Regarding the hogs... Don't hang wild pigs or bears. Trichina (the worm that will give you trichinosis) is too common in bear and wild pigs and not worth the risk. Steve Rinella addresses this as well - trichinosis always out there and wild hog and bear should always be cooked well (160F). Though trichina is killed at 137F, every molecule of the meat must hit that temperature, so a higher temp, measured at the thickest part of the portion is insurance. Alternatively, per the CDC, freezing is a suitable method to kill trichina worms. https://www.cdc.gov/parasites/trichinellosis/prevent.html.

Due to their high body-fat content, the onset of spoilage/rancidity is fast in hogs and bears. Processing bears and hogs quickly and completely is the best course to preserve your bag and fill the larder. Try some rabbits or birds to observe the rate of aging and the change from fresh "feel" to "well-hunge."

Be selective of the game that you intend to age - choose animals that have been dressed and cooled quickly from the field, well-drained of blood with low chance of contamination. Gut shot, poorly shot, contaminated w/mud, water or cross-contaminated w/other animals should be processed immediately or discarded. Be safe and bon appetit.

 

[Slick8]

Great info.

Living in southeast Texas this is almost never an option during deer season.

I typically keep on well drained ice for 7-10 days.

I've thought about buying a used double door cooler from a convenience store but that's a lot of space taken for something that's used a few times a year. I've also thought about modifying my garage side by side fridge for this process.

Again, thanks for sharing. I've been making my own sausage for years but only recently got into whole animal cooking. Front shoulders of deer are great as are the shanks of elk or other larger animals and necks from bucks.

 

[Left Hand Dave]

JT,
Maybe instead of a full-blown book you should type up some of your posts on the subject, print them off, place them in an appropriately sized 3 ring binder and offer them for sale on the forums. You could do it by order, so you keep your overhead down and make some money for toys. I think many would enjoy your knowledge and experience.

 

[jbur13]

Anyone bought and tried some dry aging bags from amazon?

Amazon product ASIN B00HUS4J4Samazon dry age bags

 

[Treeslug]

TS - definitely support the hanging quarter as a first go. I would add a couple of suggestions if doing only the quarter. IF you decided to go with skin-on, then cut the hoof and wash/dry the hide thoroughly. Salt the exposed flesh and cover with cheesecloth. If you decide to hand with hide-off, wash the whole leg in vinegar, then salt water and wrap in cheese cloth. You will lose some flesh when you finally trim. Aging as a quarter, with hide off will take less than 3 weeks. Check every-other day with the touch test (thumbprint springs back but not 100%) should look great in 14 days.

Regarding the hogs... Don't hang wild pigs or bears. Trichina (the worm that will give you trichinosis) is too common in bear and wild pigs and not worth the risk. Steve Rinella addresses this as well - trichinosis always out there and wild hog and bear should always be cooked well (160F). Though trichina is killed at 137F, every molecule of the meat must hit that temperature, so a higher temp, measured at the thickest part of the portion is insurance. Alternatively, per the CDC, freezing is a suitable method to kill trichina worms. https://www.cdc.gov/parasites/trichinellosis/prevent.html.

Due to their high body-fat content, the onset of spoilage/rancidity is fast in hogs and bears. Processing bears and hogs quickly and completely is the best course to preserve your bag and fill the larder. Try some rabbits or birds to observe the rate of aging and the change from fresh "feel" to "well-hunge."

Be selective of the game that you intend to age - choose animals that have been dressed and cooled quickly from the field, well-drained of blood with low chance of contamination. Gut shot, poorly shot, contaminated w/mud, water or cross-contaminated w/other animals should be processed immediately or discarded. Be safe and bon appetit.

JTC, Yeah, hogs might be too much of a challenge. I used to inject the hams with a ham cure and smoke them. Never had a problem with worms, but that was probably because of the cure and the brief time between killing the hog and getting it processed. I also used the cure on the back straps and tenderloins of hogs. Makes a Canadian beacon.

I also make most of my wild game into sausage. By weight, I try to use 1/3 venison, 1/3 hog, and 1/3 untrimmed beef brisket. Got to have some fat for good sausage. That blend works out to about an eighty percent lean and twenty percent fat. I use the pink modern cure to keep the sausage from going "green." If you trim most of the silver skin off the deer, there will be NO wild gamey taste at all. But this year I will age a deer ham in cheesecloth in my temperature-controlled garage refrigerator, thanks to your inspiration. Been looking for something new to wow the few friends still alive. Thanks!

 

[Weaver93]

Could you use the dry age bags in the fridge with cuts like the leg?

 

[Carlos88]

I live in VA and we rarely get the conditions right for this opportunity. I haven't hung a deer in 5 seasons and was only able to hand this one b/c of a cold snap near the end of the season, so it is a rare treat.

I hang in my garage, the whole animal, skin on. Even temperatures, good air circulation, in a shaded area that is pest free is best. Before hanging on a gambrel is inspected the carcass, trimmed back excess belly skin remove the tenderloins. You may leave the head on or not - I have been removing heads for CWD testing, taking the tongue and inspecting for sinus bot flies - YMMV

Wash the cavity with water, dry it, then vinegar, then rub with salt to help create a cuticle. Prop the cavity open. I run a fan and a dehumidifier to keep the air moving. Conditions do have to be "just right" - ideally, temperature under 40 degrees and humidity under 50% - and you have to be ready to process on relatively short notice if the weather dictates. Inspect daily for any off-odors or bacterial growth - mold is not a bad thing, it can be cut away.

Temperature spikes to 50 or so during the day are okay as long as they are short and the meat is out of direct sunlight (and warming) - persistent temperatures too high will result in spoilage. The temperature of the meat is more important to monitor than the air temp. If ambient temperatures dip below 28, the aging process will be slowed and if it really takes a dive into the single digits, will stop altogether - and skinning a frozen animal is NO FUN. Meat will not freeze at 32, so "frozen" solid will occur when temps are very low for a couple days.

Hanging skin on slows the drying time down and also reduced the amount of meat that is lost when processing. The skin will come off very easily after a week of hanging. I've let deer go as long as 30 days and the result was incredible. Test for texture by firmly pressing your thumb into the inside of the leg. When the meat springs-back more slowly and a slight depression remains, the meat is aging well and the texture will be exceptional.

When you've determined that your animal is aged long enough or conditions require it's time to process. Remove the skin then sanitize your area - process as usual. As you butcher, trim away any cuticle (hard dried skin) which should only be the cavity, part of the neck and inner hindquarters, and any shot-through areas. Inspect as you go for any irregularities.

I am a professional chef and restaurateur and I learned this process from an Icelandic certified game butcher, chef and dear friend. We have aged everything from woodcock to elk with exceptional results. A $50 used side-by-side fridge/freezer served as an aging locker during the years we had a duck lease on the Eastern Shore. I've never had better Canada goose on the table after 3 weeks of hanging with feathers on and guts in. The Europeans have been doing this for 100s of years - good cooking techniques still apply. Unless we're fortunate enough to have a cold locker, conditions are not always favorable, locations vary and and each animal is different. Continuous observation is key to watching the process unfold - having a mentor is helpful. Happy to answer any questions - PM me. It has been a gustatory journey of discovery over the last 30 years with many amazing meals.

When I was in my 40s I read all I could on the subject and started the process of making a cold locker. Life got in the way and I never followed up. This rah-cheer gives me some hope.