Jon Bischof
Well-Known Member
Sounds like an issue worthy of a brand new thread.
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Do you put anything between your rings and scope tube?
- Thread starter Jon Bischof
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Lenny Foffa
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No Never!!, Light lapping of the Leupold or Redfield Steel Rings , and careful alignment. Larry Potterfield has an excellent 5 min video on complete scope mounting. Check it out!!
Aloha, so I did another arm workout with 15 more minutes of lapping and got 80% on the front and 70% on the back. Wiped it down with alcohol then mixed up some JB weld, waxed my scope tube, smeared some epoxy on the bottom rings, installed the scope and lightly snugged the caps down. Wiped the excess epoxy and it looks great so far. I didn't torque it down just a even snugging. I will leave it overnight before messing with it. I hope I did it correct if not it's only a set of Ruger factory rings. Thanks
"aushunter1, post:
No, absolutely not.
I don't why anyone would
The only thing I do is align & lap the rings.
Not even any Loctite is required on the screws.
Just make sure you have a torque wrench & toque to the specs of what your using.
Whatever source you read that from I would not read anything from ever again!
Rubbish!
Utter rubbish!!
Aussie, why are you holding back? Please tell us how you REALLY feel about it.
No, absolutely not.
I don't why anyone would
The only thing I do is align & lap the rings.
Not even any Loctite is required on the screws.
Just make sure you have a torque wrench & toque to the specs of what your using.
Whatever source you read that from I would not read anything from ever again!
Rubbish!
Utter rubbish!!
Aussie, why are you holding back? Please tell us how you REALLY feel about it.
Interesting article about bedding scopes in GunDigest (GunDigest.com) the magazine Long Range Shooting 2019 pp 49-52 by LT John Nores Jr (RET). References bedding method he learned from Marc LeQuieu (nice Irish name
) with Axial Precision. As used for stock bedding, uses Marine Tex bedding compound and Johnson Paste wax (as the release agent). Detailed article; good read. I only use top tier mounts and rings on top tier scopes. Never bedded scopes and never had any issues. Always checked with lapping bars...rarely actually lapped. But, I might give this a try on my next scope mounting. Associated note: When mounting scopes, I only use one piece picatinny rails. I feel the machining is more precise over one rail mount than two separate bases. Also, adds rigidity to mounting system. I use Badger Ordnance Dead Level Reticle Leveling tool mounted to a verticle mill table. (Dial indicated to confirm against it's bubble level.) Then, rather than using bubble levels, I dial indicate the scope to the picatinny rail. Indicate top of rail and both the bottom of the scope flat beneath the turrets, also confirming versus turret top and turret internal disc.....beneath turret cap as when setting scope zero. Bubble levels which most shooters will pay the price for have some inaccuracies in them..often 1-3 degrees...give some thought to that with respect to scope levels to address rifle cant. ( I use SendIt! electronic level...adjustable in 5 ranges down to 0.1 degree. Have checked against precision Bridgeport mill and machinist setup Pretty much dead on.) Have used Starrett precision machinist levels, but now prefer the dial indicating method. I always do a finish up confirmation check against a hanging plum bob line with bright light through the scope. Before indicating scopes, I did use machinist adjustable sine bars between top of pic rail and bottom turret flat to precisely set scope to rail. Note we all assume the scope manufacturer mounts the reticle dead nuts on with respect to turret movement and scope external reference surface. I think scope tracking inaccuracies, in addition to design and materials elements, are often due to deviations in this assembly relationship. Remember the old adage..."Garbage in; Garbage out." Every little error is additive. Consistency is King. The shooter and the wind are the big variables. Strive to push every error out of your physical system.Now that's what I'm talking about! Good job.
The lapping took a lot of time and effort with minimal results. I wasn't even close to being at least 80% with over 30 minutes sweating and muscles burning lapping those Ruger steel rings. The bedding of the rings took maybe 10 minutes with zero effort. I will be doing more bedding and less lapping in the future!! I'm very grateful for your advice, thank you brother!!
Jon Bischof
Well-Known Member
If you do the bedding (on reasonably well-made rings) there is no need to lapp the rings, right?
Talley says their rings should not be lapped by the way.
Talley says their rings should not be lapped by the way.
You know I do remember years ago; guessing around 1987 that I bought a Leupold Vari X II 2-7 that did have a little piece of paper with sticky on one side and a slick surface on the other; didn't know what it was for so didn't use it. Mounted it on a Winchester Model 70 Featherweight .243. Still on that rifle; many have taken their first deer with it.
I have no idea on grit size... it came in a lapping kit from weaver. The one in the dark green plastic case.
