John,
The AR30 grip can be replaced with an AR10, AR15 grip, with slight modification to the grip. The aluminum extension can be trimmed back as needed.
The grip area on the inside top-front of the AR15-AR10 has an inset square corner, the AR30 is radiused where this sets into the receiver. The square corners must be filed down and a radius shaped on the new grip. The nice thing about this is you can make the grip more vertical at the same time you make this modification. If you think about it even for a minute as you study it, you'll see what needs to be done to make it more vertical, shapeing it in the right places to fit right when rotated more.
The grip you're talking about IS the one I'd go with, it's much more comfortable. My brother had one on his DPMS Panther. My Dad's lefty so he had to make do without one...
I didn't know they were Shilen triggers, Armalite tell you this?
Did you buy the 338?
......
DC,
Talked to Ray R. for about an hour a little while ago. He said that Herb there had blown a few up. "One" was a Remington, but it was an older 710 he said, before he knew him, so he didn't know the details on it.
He didn't know the details on the others either, but said the 338/378 was a Weatherby MK V action. One was Ruger. I still have no idea what he did to any of them, except he put fast powder in them, wiped the excess off the top and atempted to blow them up. When asked, he said, "the lugs did not shear from them, no".
I told Ray what determines lug shear strength rating, he did not know. He asked me how I knew that. I told him Dan Lilja has an example and explains how it's done on his site as others, go check it out. He said powder charges are too much on the big cases or the like, which is wrong, that's how that conversation got started...
He said anything over 70,000 psi brass would just fail, liquify or something to that effect. Some might, and that's close, but he was a little set back when I told him you mentioned 75-80k psi... Also when I told him I had tested up to 75 and 80 myself.
I'm not sure which, but one of you has been a student of the others for quite a while. I thought that at moments I was talking to you.
Ray's probably knowledgable on many aspects of shooting and gun building, but there are things he believes and says that are... well, I leave it at that and just say I like my smith.
I did talk to Ray. Herb died, partly as a result of his own carelessness, and partly because he was disabled and reteat was more difficult than it would you or I. From spilling powder all over for years in a certain spot, I forget where, said powder ignited while drilling a hole with a cobalt bit in the concrete floor. He didn't make it out.
If anyone reading this has concerns and what this guy Herb really did, and to what actions, call Ray and listen to the story as he tells it, then ask for the specific details.
I'm quite sure the guy in the grave is the only one who knows the whole story, more now than ever. It actually was just more confirmation that the action will blow before the lugs will fail, something I already knew though. Now, if you want to call my smith (907-376-5261) Dave Caboth, and ask him where he taught gunsmith school at and what they learned from destructive testing firearms there over the years, I'd do just that too.