Definitely NOT happy with new Redding Dies!

[orkan]

Do you mind if I ask why you ditched Redding? What kind of problems did you encounter? Thanks!

Multiple cracked seating stems on standard non-compressed 308 loads. When I called redding, they accused me of running compressed loads and refused warranty.

Never cracked a stem on my forster dies... ever. Tens of thousands of rounds on some of their dies.

 

[bigedp51]

Any die with this design type can have the expander spindle locked down off center not just Redding.

Remove the expander spindle assembly and chuck the upper section in a drill. Then slowly spin the spindle and see where the wobble is coming from.

You can place a small rubber o-ring under the lock nut and allow it to float like a Forster spindle assembly.

Both Redding and Lyman sell replacement carbide expander assemblies. I was never a big fan a Reddings oblong expanders and their extra drag in the case neck.

During die setup leave the lock nut loose on the spindle and on the down stroke of the ram as the expander enters the case neck and "centers" tighten the lock nut.

Or just buy Forster dies with the high mounted floating expander that produce cases with the least neck runout.

 

[newmexkid]

You did state you haven't been reloading for a long time. Is it possible you're just seeing movement from the loose male to female threads where the stem screws into the threaded portion of the die body? As I said, that can be normal on many brands of reloading dies. And there are ways to work around that issue and load good ammo.

My Redding die stems also have some wobble when threading the stem back in after cleaning but, are fine after I tightened them down. The concentricity of my reloads is great. I'm seating here at my bench and my RCBS and Forster dies have the same wobble.

 

[engineer40]

Never had this problem with my Redding dies, but I have with a couple of my RCBS dies. What it comes down to, is the threads in the die body are larger than the threads on the stem, so there is some play and the stem can move around. You just have to spin the stem until it centers-up, then tighten down the lock-nut on top. Check to make sure it's still centered after you tighten it down, if not, you just have to adjust it till it stays centered after you tighten it down.

Hey MudRunner. If I loosen the lock on the stem, there is some play because of the threads, but not much. Everything you stated does make sense. And that is the way I got the stem and pin to center up. I don't think this is because of the thread tolerances though. If it was, then it seems like I could just hold the stem in the center while I tighten the lock up.

Multiple cracked seating stems on standard non-compressed 308 loads. When I called redding, they accused me of running compressed loads and refused warranty.

Never cracked a stem on my forster dies... ever. Tens of thousands of rounds on some of their dies.

Thanks!

Any die with this design type can have the expander spindle locked down off center not just Redding.
Remove the expander spindle assembly and chuck the upper section in a drill. Then slowly spin the spindle and see where the wobble is coming from.
You can place a small rubber o-ring under the lock nut and allow it to float like a Forster spindle assembly.
Both Redding and Lyman sell replacement carbide expander assemblies. I was never a big fan a Reddings oblong expanders and their extra drag in the case neck.
During die setup leave the lock nut loose on the spindle and on the down stroke of the ram as the expander enters the case neck and "centers" tighten the lock nut.
Or just buy Forster dies with the high mounted floating expander that produce cases with the least neck runout.

Thanks for the info... I don't think your suggestion of setting the die up will work in this instance. The stem won't center unless I screw it further in or out. The stem only has a small amount of play when the lock is lose. Not nearly enough to center the stem in the die body. (On either sizing die).


Now I'm torn. From what you guys are describing, it sounds like this may be business as normal for many resizing dies. Although I don't think I'm experiencing exactly what you all are describing. My Redding dies (both the FL and Neck resizing dies) will absolutely tighten up crooked and way off center. They do not center up as I tighten the lock ring, which sounds like happens for the rest of you.

I know one thing... Lee has a fan for life. I never have to worry about this stuff with my Lee dies. And I produce super concentric ammo with very consistent OAL's. (Measured with Sinclair concentricity gauge and Hornady headspace comparator). And not to mention that I don't have to lube cases when I Neck Size with my Lee dies.

I was going to return these Redding dies, but maybe I'll just keep them. It sounds like it's a common thing. And when I eyeballed getting the stem to center up, the ammo didn't turn out horrible when I measured it. But it does honestly bug the crap out of me that my ammo concentricity relies on me to eyeball the stem and tinker with it until I looks centered up to me. I do not feel that these Redding dies are high value. Sorry, I'm not purposely dogging on anybody's brand loyalty to Redding. I have a different piece of Redding reloading equipment that is not reloading dies, and it works fine.

 

[bigedp51]

The Speer #9 reloading manual has a chapter on setting up your dies for benchrest accuracy.

It also states the main cause of neck runout is locking down the expander spindle off center.

The Redding spindle must be run up tight so it will not move. The upper section can be raised like a Forster unit and a rubber o-ring placed under the lock ring allowing the expander to float.

My .243 Redding die is equipped with a Redding carbide spindle assembly. The expander floats on the spindle assembly and it is adjusted high like the Forster expander.

Below is my RCBS .223 die equipped with the Forster floating and self centering expander, that greatly reduces neck runout. The die is equipped with Lee lock rings with their rubber o-rings that let the die float and self center in the press.

Bottom line, you can adjust and fix the problem and check the cases with a runout gauge until the die is adjusted properly.

 

[AZShooter]

My approach to the sloppy fit is to size a case, as the sizer ball passes partway through the neck on its way to exiting the mouth, maintain the tension on the press handle while tightening the locknut. In my experience, this squares up the sizer stem with the die. This is what I always do with RCBS and Redding dies.

FYI I don't have to do this with Hornady or Whidden dies.

 

[bigedp51]

My approach to the sloppy fit is to size a case, as the sizer ball passes partway through the neck on its way to exiting the mouth, maintain the tension on the press handle while tightening the locknut. In my experience, this squares up the sizer stem with the die. This is what I always do with RCBS and Redding dies.

That is exactly what the #9 Speer reloading manual tells you to do above, they also tell you to run a lubed case into the die and then tighten the lock ring to center the die in the press.



O-Rings on Dies May Reduce Run-Out

http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/reloading/o-rings-on-dies-may-reduce-run-out/

 

[cape cove]

When I use Redding style dies the way I adjust the decapping stem is to lube a case and run it carefully up in the sizing die with the decap assembly loose. I then start the stroke to remove the case and when the expander ball is in the case neck I then tighten the assembly up and then remove the case and check the case for run-out. Most of the time this procedure works good. With the decap unit loose while removing the case the assembly is free to find it's own center. Works for me.

 

[RoadKill]

I do mine ~ same as bigedp51 and AZShooter except that once I stop the expander ball 'bout half way through the neck, I then reverse the ram to put a tad of upwards pressure on the de-cap/expander stem to top it out in the play in the threads and also to shove it in the same direction that snugging up the jam nut is going to pull the stem. Doing so will naturally center the taper of the stem's external threads within the matching taper of the die's internal threads; pretty much like the self centering action what happens when tightening the 82° taper on the underside of the head of a flat head screw against a matching 82° countersunk seat.

 

[tbrice23]

for future reference, Lee will if you contact them (by phone), put together any die set for you

Yep,
and the last time I talked to a rep. on the phone he said they have a really short turn around time.

I will buy Redding body dies, but I'm done with their sizing dies for a different reason. I hate their expander ball, Lee's expander mandrel is perfect.

 

[RoadKill]

I have installed the Redding floating carbide expander balls, much better all around.
The next off the shelf regular ol' Full Length size dies I try will be Forster with the high mounted expander. The upper end of the case neck is still held positioned centered within the die's neck at the same time the high mounted expander begins entering the lower end of the case neck; and Forster offers three sizes in .0005" increments of oversize expander balls fer a little playing around with neck tension. You can also ship 'em one of their size dies and for not that many buck$, they'll hone the neck diameter a bit larger so you'll not be sizing down the neck so terribly small only to expand it right back out enough to accept a bullet and hang onto it with a reasonable amount of neck tension

 

[Gene]

My approach to the sloppy fit is to size a case, as the sizer ball passes partway through the neck on its way to exiting the mouth, maintain the tension on the press handle while tightening the locknut. In my experience, this squares up the sizer stem with the die. This is what I always do with RCBS and Redding dies.

FYI I don't have to do this with Hornady or Whidden dies.

Exactly what I do with all dies having expander buttons. But no matter how careful you are, those expander buttons frequently are way out of concentricity. The best method is to use sizer bushings.

Big plus on the Whidden dies.

 

[parshal]

I have two sets of Redding sizing dies, one for a 6.5 WSM and the other for a 22 Creedmoor. When I was using the expander ball I used the carbide one. Now, I don't even use an expander. The 22 die uses bushings and the 6.5 is a standard one and I still don't use the expander ball. I use a decapping die as a separate step and then run the brass through the tumbler. Removing the expander ball completely gives me a better feel when I seat bullets.

 

[jmd025]

Any die with this design type can have the expander spindle locked down off center not just Redding.

Remove the expander spindle assembly and chuck the upper section in a drill. Then slowly spin the spindle and see where the wobble is coming from.

You can place a small rubber o-ring under the lock nut and allow it to float like a Forster spindle assembly.

Both Redding and Lyman sell replacement carbide expander assemblies. I was never a big fan a Reddings oblong expanders and their extra drag in the case neck.

During die setup leave the lock nut loose on the spindle and on the down stroke of the ram as the expander enters the case neck and "centers" tighten the lock nut.

Or just buy Forster dies with the high mounted floating expander that produce cases with the least neck runout.

This, ......every time.