Dang! Starting over with the kinetic bullet puller...

  • Thread starter Deleted member 107796
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Reloading Mistake/Redo - Reuse or Dump the Components?

  • Dump it all!

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Dump the powder only if brass/bullets ok

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Dump the bullets only if powder/brass ok

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Keep it All!

    Votes: 0 0.0%

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Started a batch of 50 7wsm rounds and developed a shoulder bump from the crimp, that did not exhibit itself for the first round I tested in my chamber. After completing the 50, I saw that numerous rounds were not chambering due to a slight shoulder bulge from my crimp, so it's time to start again after dumping the bullet/powder from the rounds and resizing the brass. No real issue but a quick question for those with some experience with the kinetic bullet pullers... have you seen any effect on the rim? I figure there is quite a bit of force exerted on the rim, during bullet removal. cheers all
 
My kinetic puller worked amazing! See, my buddy had a grip n pull puller and was Bragging about how much better it was, so I snuck up behind him, whacked him on the head with my kinetic puller and grabbed his grip n pull. Worked great...

I have a set of grip-n-pulls too. They work well providing you have plenty of bullet shank above the case mouth to grab onto. The grip-n-pull is faster to use than the kinetic pullers. Each tool has its place.
 
Ive done something similar with a bunch of test loads.

1) i put a piece of material in the end of the whacker so it didnt deform the tips
2) i reused all components over again with no worries
3) i resized all brass to make sure the necks werent deformed from a bullet getting whacked outta there crooked
 
Why are you crimping and are crimping with the seating die? You should not have to crimp a bottleneck rifle case. You should also never use the seating die to crimp for the above reasons. A lee fcd or taper crimp works better if you feel you must crimp.
 
Also the crimping die should not affect the shoulder if used properly. What I have found with wsm rounds due to the steep shoulder angle they are very sensitive to shoulder bump. Loaded a bunch once and had several not chamber because I did not measure enough of the cases and did not have the die adjusted properly.
 
Why are you crimping and are crimping with the seating die? You should not have to crimp a bottleneck rifle case. You should also never use the seating die to crimp for the above reasons. A lee fcd or taper crimp works better if you feel you must crimp.

The WSM line has about the shortest neck length around which results in not much bearing surface. I crimp for a few of my magnum calibers when I have a cannelured bullet and has resulted in excellent precision and accuracy. There are a few threads that show data as to the effect of crimping bottleneck cases, on several different calibers. It is undeniable that in many cases, it can and does improve grouping. It's all about uniform neck tension. In this case, I just set the crimp from my RCBS die, which works well, 1/8th turn too much. It happens, no biggie.

It's a side issue, but I just revisited the crimp thread. Most of the mystery and hem and hawing of crimping seems to come from those with little crimping experience. I am quoting our friend, Reloader, here, which sums it up well:

"Like I said in my post, I've found crimped loads to produce slightly better accuracy and slightly better SD. The paper and chrono don't lie. You can't knock it until you've tried it.
This link pretty much sums it up:

http://www.accuratereloading.com/crimping.html

My results were very much the same.
There's another link on AR showing the lowered SD values when using the Lee FCD with a 308. Saeed could point you to it.
The fact is Crimping can improve things. May not make every rifle shoot better but, I'd venture to say it will not hurt anything if done properly."
 
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I still have a kinetic bullet puller but haven't used it since I switched to a collet puller that works very good and doesn't damage the bullets. I use to place an ear plug in the nose of the hammer to protect the bullet nose but just liked the collet puller better with polymer tipped bullets, especially when working up loads and needing to pull bullets for one reason or the other.

Also I didn't like the idea of beating a hammer with a loaded cartridge in it on the concrete floor. (Just Me)

J E CUSTOM
 
I crimp semi auto and pistol rounds. I would not use the crimp shoulder in seating dies for the reason you mentioned. It can bulge the case. A Lee fcd applies a taper crimp. It is not sensitive to case length. The crimp ring in the seating dies are very sensitive to brass length.
 
Crimping a bullet without a cannelure can be tricky and as stated Case length can be very critical so trimming to exact lengths is important. Removing bullets that have been crimped is also tricky and the tool used makes a big difference. In the past, I crimped lots of cartridges for many reasons and there were many bullets with cannelure's this is where I found that the collet puller was much easier,quicker and safer. now there are not very many bullets with cannelures but with the collet puller, I can un load as fast as I can load. And with all the accuracy testing we do. save components and time.

J E CUSTOM
 
Why are you crimping and are crimping with the seating die? You should not have to crimp a bottleneck rifle case. You should also never use the seating die to crimp for the above reasons. A lee fcd or taper crimp works better if you feel you must crimp.

While I have a Lee crimp die for a couple cartridges I often use the seating die to crimp as well, for both handgun and rifle cartridges. Properly set up there are no problems. sometimes I'll seat and crimp in one operation, other times I'll seat first, then back the seater plug out and screw the die body in a bit to get the desired crimp.

Personally, I prefer a roll crimp made with the seater die to the Lee crush crimp.
 
Something seems to be wrong with the poll section. That said, I reuse everything I can. Generally a kinetic puller if I don't have many to pull, a collet puller if I do and there is enough full diameter shank to grip properly.

To reuse the brass I do a partial resize to get the neck right but with the primer punch backed out so the primer remains in place.
 
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