That will give the muzzle diameter for threading and enough stiffness that you don't get whip in the barrel
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Custom/semi-custom
- Thread starter Firedad
- Start date
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I've never even heard a rifle with a suppressor so I don't really know how important it is to me. I do like hearing things though and haven't taken care to use hearing protection when I should throughout my life. I'll be 43 in April so I can't imagine it's going to get better. So I understand the benefits vs cost but I want a long range lightweight gun but don't want a 30" barrel
Suppressors help but you should really wear hearing protection with them also as with supersonic ammo it still goes into dangerous levels. I have tinnitus and some loss from the Marine Corps and also fire department so I always double up with ear pro anyways.
I shoot a rifle similar to what you are looking at. I shoot a origin with a 24" proof 300 wm barrel in a peak 44 stock. My barrel has a Silencerco asr muzzle brake for quick attaching my suppressor. My gun with scope weighs 9 lbs of I wanted to cut weight in would look at March or Leupold Scopes my scope is a Nightforce NSX. If I choose not to use the suppressor I still have a muzzle brake to help tame the recoil.
This is perfect thank you. Carry it around without and put it on when ready to shoot. I guess that answers the question if you can take it on and off and still be sighted in accurately
Hand Skills
Well-Known Member
Check out this thread, @Firedad
www.longrangehunting.com
Personally, I think Cody nailed it with this one. If you look back through his previous builds, you can get a sense of the progression.
www.longrangehunting.com
Forgive my bluntness on this one, but it's unlikely you will hit your first build out of the park. A good smith can help, but there is a lot to balance.
...and for that reason, I'll recommend starting with a semi-custom Tikka build. Drop it in a Manners EH1, put on the barrel of your choice, and go shooting! Hopefully this will leave a little more in the budget for GLASS!
If it was me, I'd buy a Tikka in 7mm Rem Mag or 300 Win
-use the factory bottom plastic and magazine - they save cost and weight.
-sell the takeoff barrel, new, unfired and recoup a few dollars.
I am on my third Tikka build, and almost ready to do a full custom on a Kelbly Nanook.
Enjoy the journey!
My perfect Wyoming Mountain rifle build thread
After going through a few different rifles, trying to figure out my wants and needs for what I consider the perfect rifle for the way I hunt, I think this will finally be the one, so I'm starting another build thread. Some people won't like this rifle, and I don't care, not even a little...
Personally, I think Cody nailed it with this one. If you look back through his previous builds, you can get a sense of the progression.
Search results for query: build
Forgive my bluntness on this one, but it's unlikely you will hit your first build out of the park. A good smith can help, but there is a lot to balance.
...and for that reason, I'll recommend starting with a semi-custom Tikka build. Drop it in a Manners EH1, put on the barrel of your choice, and go shooting! Hopefully this will leave a little more in the budget for GLASS!
If it was me, I'd buy a Tikka in 7mm Rem Mag or 300 Win
-use the factory bottom plastic and magazine - they save cost and weight.
-sell the takeoff barrel, new, unfired and recoup a few dollars.
I am on my third Tikka build, and almost ready to do a full custom on a Kelbly Nanook.
Enjoy the journey!
I'll check it out thank you
I think most folks that use silencers leave them on while hunting. You may not have time to attach it when needing to shoot and some rifles shoot different with the suppressor on.
You have many options to consider and in the end get what you want. I would either bite the bullet and go full custom or just get a very nice factory rifle such as the Seekins Element. If you want change it up down the road, the Element will hold it's value better than a pieced together semi-custom IMO. Shaving weight in the custom world can be costly. Light weight actions actions from some of the top manufacturers can run well over $1500 without triggers, bottom metals, magazines, etc. I realize there are some very skilled members on this forum, but the market for self built semi-customs or customs is fairly narrow should you decide to go a different direction later.
In a.different thread I was asking about Tikkas and the biggest response I got was that the inexpensive ones don't handle the recoil very well for magnum cartridges. Do you have a model that you would suggest to Firedad that handles the recoil?Check out this thread, @Firedad
My perfect Wyoming Mountain rifle build thread
After going through a few different rifles, trying to figure out my wants and needs for what I consider the perfect rifle for the way I hunt, I think this will finally be the one, so I'm starting another build thread. Some people won't like this rifle, and I don't care, not even a little...
Personally, I think Cody nailed it with this one. If you look back through his previous builds, you can get a sense of the progression.
Search results for query: build
Forgive my bluntness on this one, but it's unlikely you will hit your first build out of the park. A good smith can help, but there is a lot to balance.
...and for that reason, I'll recommend starting with a semi-custom Tikka build. Drop it in a Manners EH1, put on the barrel of your choice, and go shooting! Hopefully this will leave a little more in the budget for GLASS!
If it was me, I'd buy a Tikka in 7mm Rem Mag or 300 Win
-use the factory bottom plastic and magazine - they save cost and weight.
-sell the takeoff barrel, new, unfired and recoup a few dollars.
I am on my third Tikka build, and almost ready to do a full custom on a Kelbly Nanook.
Enjoy the journey!
Hand Skills
Well-Known Member
Can you provide a link to the discussion, or some more context?
The old T3s came with an aluminium recoil lug - heavy recoil can deform those for sure, but that problem was addressed with the T3X - now they come with a steel lug. If a guy is counting ounces, there are aftermarket precision ground titanium lugs available.
The Tikka Tupperware stocks aren't bad, a Limbsaver or Decelerator recoil pad can be added on. Alternately, a high quality aftermarket stock or chassis provides more rigidity - that seems to help a bit, but really I think a 'custom fit' plays the biggest part. LOP (length of pull) spacers are becoming available - before I went to aftermarket stocks/chassis I used to make my own out of hardwood.
The old T3s came with an aluminium recoil lug - heavy recoil can deform those for sure, but that problem was addressed with the T3X - now they come with a steel lug. If a guy is counting ounces, there are aftermarket precision ground titanium lugs available.
The Tikka Tupperware stocks aren't bad, a Limbsaver or Decelerator recoil pad can be added on. Alternately, a high quality aftermarket stock or chassis provides more rigidity - that seems to help a bit, but really I think a 'custom fit' plays the biggest part. LOP (length of pull) spacers are becoming available - before I went to aftermarket stocks/chassis I used to make my own out of hardwood.
Like and/or dislikes Tikka t3x?
I'm thinking of buying a Tikka t3x not because I have room in the safes,.I'll have to rearrange some things to fit it in. Do any of y'all have any dislikes about the T3X? And what are the likes about the T3X? I'm looking at this rifle to shoot for a little bit and then rent the barrel change out...
Hand Skills
Well-Known Member
I just skimmed through the thread, so I could be missing something, but it seems like the recoil 'problem' is just physics. A big magnum cartridge in a light rifle is going to kick!
For the OP in this thread, he is going to replace the barrel with a custom chambered 7prc or something. A bigger diameter barrel adds mass to the shooting system which reduces felt recoil. He has also mentioned the use of a muzzle device like a suppressor or brake which also reduce felt recoil.
If you are concerned about recoil in a 'stock' or factory configuration, get the 'Varmint' model, they come with a heavier barrel and kick a lot less than the 'superlites'.
Here is a handy recoil calculator to play with;
Firearms Recoil Calculator
Calculate the recoil for a rifle based on its weight and ammunition
bisonballistics.com
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The OP has added some ideas along the way so to give them a reminder that the lighter the gun the more the felt recoil. So when considering a pencil tapered barrel it gives them the idea of wanting/ needing a muzzle brake. If they decide to get and use a suppressor then a QD muzzle brake is idealI just skimmed through the thread, so I could be missing something, but it seems like the recoil 'problem' is just physics. A big magnum cartridge in a light rifle is going to kick!
For the OP in this thread, he is going to replace the barrel with a custom chambered 7prc or something. A bigger diameter barrel adds mass to the shooting system which reduces felt recoil. He has also mentioned the use of a muzzle device like a suppressor or brake which also reduce felt recoil.
If you are concerned about recoil in a 'stock' or factory configuration, get the 'Varmint' model, they come with a heavier barrel and kick a lot less than the 'superlites'.
Here is a handy recoil calculator to play with;
Firearms Recoil Calculator
Calculate the recoil for a rifle based on its weight and ammunition
