Custom Builds - How are You Building Them?

I have a few different paints I use. If going with the sponge method, the model paints work very well, like Testers or Tamiya. Then hit the whole stock with a matte clear. Really makes the carbon fiber pop and deepens/enriches the colors.
This is my 6.5PRC/SI stock. Started as Manners "Tommy Bahama" and added the same orange to it.
Before:
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After:
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This started out as a Manners TAC GAP, but it had way too much black empty spaces. So I got some darker tan to compliment the cream, and lighter sage green to go with the olive.

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As for camo, I use spary paint. Then matte clear over top. The matte I use dries fast and hard. I have had some of mine painted for years and has ridden miles in packs and trucks with me.

Here is a "Multicam" I did a while ago. Started out life as Manners "High Plains". I left the black spots in the Multicam as the carbon fiber.
Before:
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After:
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I am getting prepped to do a "Multicam Arid" stock, but adding some bright orange in it for some pop. Tested using the orange as a bottom coat and a top coat. I thought I want it as a top coat, but after doing a couple test samples, I think the bottom coat looked better.
Thanks for the details. That's exactly what I have on this manners. It's a Swamp camo and there's a lot of black in it. I want to add to it.

So if I am understanding you use model spray paint? Do you spray directly onto the sponge or do you spray onto something and then transfer to the sponge and then stock? Do you have a particular sponge you prefer?
 
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Thanks for the details. That's exactly what I have on this manners. It's a Swamp camo and there's a lot of black in it. I want to add to it.

So if I am understanding you use model spray paint? Do you spray directly
Into the solo ge or do you spray onto something and then transfer to the sponge and then stock? Do you have a particular sponge you prefer?
I use the model paint in the glass jar. Not the spray. Pour it on a paper plate, dip the sponge and apply to the stock. Cheaper and gives much better coverage than the spray paints.
 
Back when I shot benchrest, no benchrest gunsmith would guarantee precision. The only guarantee is the rifle is built to the best practices.

There were some benchrest shooters who would have a handful or more barrels chambered with the same reamer and test them all, the one/s that would shoot screamer groups were kept and the rest were sold. Nothing wrong with one's sold off, they would still shoot to most people's standard.
Thats true. In the thousandths of barrels I have chambered I think I can remember once being asked about a garuntee.
 
What clear coat do you use Lance? I've had some issues with clear in the past.
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I like Ruger M77 MKII's.

After scrounging up a good specimen I send it off to McGowen for a re-barrel job with 3 dummy rounds attached for bullet/chamber finishing. I have McGowen true up the receiver face & lap bolt lugs.
I like laminated wood stocks because I can rasp & file them to fit exactly. I usually fit recoil pads & adjust length of pull.
A trigger job is next - the MKII trigger can be much improved. Timney makes a good MKII trigger.
I finish stocks with MinWax Poly rub - usually 4-5 coats for dense closed pore laminates.
I quit competitive shooting a long time ago & the Ruger's fit my needs perfectly. My biggest complaint with the MKII is the Ruger scope mounting system, but receivers (investment cast) can be drilled & tapped for 20 MOA pic mounts using 8-40 screws.
No problems - have been shooting some MKII's for over 25 years.
 
Yall may want to try Helmsmans Spar Urithane. It comes in a rattle can and matte. It's extremely durable, flexible and UV resistant. I use it to seal the traditional bows I build and the only tougher finish that I have used is thinned epoxy applied with a spray gun. Epoxy spray is such a pain that it's not worth the effort.
 
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