Crimp removal and other advice needed

[Just a hunter]

Looks like there's a lot of options and opinions. If I go with the majority it looks like Super Swager wins. Thank you everyone for your help and input!

 

[ElkSurgeon]

Get the Dillion Swager. Period.

We're not prepping a precision rifle cartridge here…..get rid of the primer crimp fast & build some ammo to engage in situations under 300yds……Period

 

[GDKinCO]

I'm using the Dillon Super Swager 600 and loading on a Dillon 750. I loaded a thousand or so rounds of 5.56 and continually jammed up the primer cup on the 750 with little shards of brass that were left over from the swaging process. I then bought a Lyman Xpres case prep station and run the cases through the primer stations there before loading. Has eliminated my trash in the primer station problem. I'm still not satisfied with my case prep process, though, as it takes a number of steps.

I decap on a Lee single stage with decapping die, then wash in a Frankfort Armory Rotary Tumbler (squirt of Dawn dish soap, a bit of LemiShine, no stainless steel pins), tumbled for 90 minutes gets me clean and shiny brass.
After tumbling, I run the brass through the swager, then over the primer scraper, cleaner and uniformer bits on the case prep station. Finally, load them up in the 750.

So far I've loaded about 5000 rounds this way, and have another 5000 rounds of dirty crimped brass to process. Then if I never see another crimped primer case, I'll be happy!

 

[GDKinCO]

Let me ask this, would it be worth the money to buy the CP 2000 or RL 1100 and the motorized trimmer? It's a lot of money but I could deprime, size, swage and trim on one machine. There's probably more I could do but at least those things. If I got the 1100 I could get two tool heads, one for prep and one for priming, flaring, powder drop, bullet drop, seat and crimp. Am I right? Then the only thing I have to figure out is how to deal with the tedious work, primer pocket uniforming/cleaning, flash hole deburr etc. Right?

I have a friend who bought the RL1100 and all the extras, and he's happy with how it works. I haven't been over to his place to actually see how it runs and compare to my multi-step process (post above). I'm somewhat afraid to check it out - might be convinced to upgrade my 750.

 

[Just a hunter]

That's what I'm thinking too, I might need an upgrade. I hate spending the extra money if I can build off what I already have. However, if I'm going to end up with nearly as much money and multiple pieces of equipment or added steps then I wonder if it wouldn't be better to get the 1100. Deprime, swage, size, load and all on one machine.

 

[Hydra6]

I've looked online at this setup and it intrigued me. I was hoping someone would chime in that has it. How well does it work? Did you buy the stand and mount it on it or on your reloading bench? Any dislikes?

Cheap, works well for swaging crimped primer pockets. I had a few thousand "free" mil crimp 5.56 to process. Bolted Lee APP to a piece of wood and c-clamped it to work bench. "Swaged" primers pockets until sick of it, came back another day and swaged more until all done. Left all my other reloading gear on bench undisturbed. Removed the Lee APP and it is in the corner in the off chance I want to do this again. I was prepping range pick up brass for AR volume use.

 

[VinceMule]

Processing LC brass is a labor of love. I use the Lee Universal decapping tool to de-cap the brass that has crimped-in primers, then use the Dillon Swagger. The first stage is to grab brass by the hand full with the primer pocket facing you:

A. Examine for off-center flash holes, and cull those into one small bucket. Then:

B. cull those that seem to have a piece of piece of shard on the side of the primer pocket, those go in another bucket. I use a case-mouth deburring tool to gently cut this piece of shard off at a later time.

C. I will de burr the inside of the flash hole on all brass, some have an incredible burr where the flash hole was punched.

It is amazing how much of the "Match" brass is screwed up. The Lake City 308 and 30/06 brass is tough brass for high-end pressure loads, but it is work to process.

 

[nksmfamjp]

Since you have a Hornady, have you tried their swager?

It's pretty slick.

 

[C-130 Dude]

Processing LC brass is a labor of love. I use the Lee Universal decapping tool to de-cap the brass that has crimped-in primers, then use the Dillon Swagger. The first stage is to grab brass by the hand full with the primer pocket facing you:

A. Examine for off-center flash holes, and cull those into one small bucket. Then:

B. cull those that seem to have a piece of piece of shard on the side of the primer pocket, those go in another bucket. I use a case-mouth deburring tool to gently cut this piece of shard off at a later time.

C. I will de burr the inside of the flash hole on all brass, some have an incredible burr where the flash hole was punched.

It is amazing how much of the "Match" brass is screwed up. The Lake City 308 and 30/06 brass is tough brass for high-end pressure loads, but it is work to process.

Labor of love. Boy, ain't this the truth!

 

[Just a hunter]

Since you have a Hornady, have you tried their swager?

It's pretty slick.

Not sure who you were referring to, I don't have any Hornady equipment.

 

[VinceMule]

Labor of love. Boy, ain't this the truth!

Easier to get through the task with a TV and Good radio in the garage, which seems to take your mind off the boredom.

 

[C-130 Dude]

Easier to get through the task with a TV and Good radio in the garage, which seems to take your mind off the boredom.

I'm not that talented to do all that at the same time. HA!

 

[nksmfamjp]

Since you have a Hornady, have you tried their swager?

It's pretty slick.

Sorry. Somebody said they had an ammo plant.

 

[FireFlyFishing]

Well, the good news is it's a one time step for the life of the brass…