Cratering Primers

A couple things could be in play here. You could have a sloppy firing pin hole, very common on factory rifles, simple solution is to have it bushed by someone like Gre-tan. You could also have something giving you high pressure like not enough neck clearance. Can you slide a bullet in a fired case ? Any other signs of pressure other than the cratering ?

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What does it hurt, other than to make one think they are seeing pressure signs? I always look for flattened primers and ejector marks on brass and compare the cratering, which gets worse with higher pressure.
When you pierce a primer then you will know what the reason for bushing the bolt is.
 
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A couple things could be in play here. You could have a sloppy firing pin hole, very common on factory rifles, simple solution is to have it bushed by someone like Gre-tan. You could also have something giving you high pressure like not enough neck clearance. Can you slide a bullet in a fired case ? Any other signs of pressure other than the cratering ?

Excellent job done on explaining problem. The cutaway bolt really helped!!
 
I have 3 boxes of once-fired RPM brass purchased from WBY. All have cratering as bad as the ones pictured and are far flatter. My ULW in 6.5x284 does the same thing. When I get it opened up to RPM I'm going to get the bushing job. I think this cartridge is working on the hairy edge, and the factory platform could (should) be improved.
 
I have an old short barreled Ruger Saddleman in .308 that does the same thing.. I don't reload for it as it's a short range brush hunting rig and minute of deer is fine for where I hunt with it. Does it on everything I've shot out of it.. I always figured the firing pin spring was just really stiff.
 
Maybe can you get harder primers?
A harder primer cup won't help.
I am 100% confident this is a gun issue, from a bevel on the bolt face leading into the firing pin hole, not a pressure issue.
The stupidest thing about cratered primers is the fact that when you go to re-chamber a fired round, the bolt is hard to close…the reason is the crater is being forced back into the bevel and if it isn't oriented exactly the way it came out, it will be tight.
Why so many manufacturers do this is beyond me, there's no need to do this and it is getting far too common.
Nowadays, instead of bushing the bolt, I just replace them with PT&G one piece bolts with Sako style extractors.

Cheers.
 
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