Copper remover.
- Thread starter lefty15
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davewilson
Well-Known Member
wipeout.
Varmint Hunter
Well-Known Member
Wipe-Out Accelerator THEN Wipe-out foam. It will look like blue ink running out of the bore. No brushing, no patching and no work. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif Yes - its bore safe to boot.
hvyw8t
Well-Known Member
I have turned the gun over and applied wipeout a second time to see if the half clean theory was true and i got next to nothing out of the barrel. Wipe out flat works!
wapiti13
Well-Known Member
Don't forget about Extreme Copper Melt. Pricey and you need a nylon bore brush, but it really works. Search threads on past input.
Delta Hunter
Well-Known Member
I prefer Montana Extreme 50BMG over Wipeout, but they both work well. 50BMG is faster, but be careful, don't dare take a whiff of it as it is very strong. Use it in a well ventilated area.
Varmint Hunter
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
I have heard that the foam is not so good, because it pools at the bottom of the barrel, so only half of the barrel gets cleaned. Is this true??
[/ QUOTE ]
To some extent it would be true of any bore cleaner that is left in the bore for any period of time. Even a thin coat of bore oil (protectant) will settle to the lowest spot.
In practice, I have not noticed this to be a problem, especially when using the Accelerator first. If you are leaving a heavily fouled barrel overnight than I would rotate the barrel 180 degrees and reapply the foam just to be sure. It's just as easy because you just spray and go back to watching the ballgame. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I have heard that the foam is not so good, because it pools at the bottom of the barrel, so only half of the barrel gets cleaned. Is this true??
[/ QUOTE ]
To some extent it would be true of any bore cleaner that is left in the bore for any period of time. Even a thin coat of bore oil (protectant) will settle to the lowest spot.
In practice, I have not noticed this to be a problem, especially when using the Accelerator first. If you are leaving a heavily fouled barrel overnight than I would rotate the barrel 180 degrees and reapply the foam just to be sure. It's just as easy because you just spray and go back to watching the ballgame. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
barnes cr-10 for me! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
royinidaho
Well-Known Member
Not going to say its the best (I don't feel qualified) but my first shot at using Warthog was a worthwhile experience.
My barrel is not much for copper fouling, only a hint of copper with any of the cleaners. Carbon is a bit more of a problem. Usually about 4 or 5 patches with GM TEC gets the carbon and an over night setting w/Wipeout gets what little copper there is.
W/Warthog, 3 patches and I was done.
Ran some GM Tec down the bore to check things and patch returned pure white.
Ran some Sweets 7.62 down to check for copper. There was none.
My barrel is not much for copper fouling, only a hint of copper with any of the cleaners. Carbon is a bit more of a problem. Usually about 4 or 5 patches with GM TEC gets the carbon and an over night setting w/Wipeout gets what little copper there is.
W/Warthog, 3 patches and I was done.
Ran some GM Tec down the bore to check things and patch returned pure white.
Ran some Sweets 7.62 down to check for copper. There was none.
keithcandler
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2005
- Messages
- 650
Lefty you just need something that works easy and right now...
I have used the foam and holy cow....what a messy thing to use....obviously I have not perfected the technique. I got an action full of foam that obviously saturated the action and runs down through the stock screws into the stock and bedding. Maybe someone can enlighten me as to how to use the foam.
I shoot a bunch of factory rifles and custom guns. The Factory guns are copper fouling pigs when compared to a good custom barrel.
Please use a Neil Jones or a Lucas bore guides, the rest of them are junk leadiing to rifling wore out at 5 to 8 o'clock. If your rod guide does not have a bushing that fits on the rod to center the rod in the "rod guide" then you are wearing the rifling prematurely...make no mistake about it. The rod must be centered in the rod guide.
My cleaning regiment is like this:
* Push 4 wet patches of Montana Extreme throug the bore
* brush 15- 20 strokes with a bronze brush(discard after 75
Strokes
* push 4 wet patches through the bore
* push 2 dry patches through the bore
* push 4 wet patches of Montana 50 BMG through the
bore and let soak for 10 minutes.
* in most guns, one application of the 50 BMG will
take out all copper, you may want to run 3-4 more
patches of 50 BMG through the barrel and let it
soak to make sure that you have removed all the
Copper
* If you are in a hurry Use one of Montana exteme
plastic brushes and brush with the montana50 BMG,
the copper will be gone right now!
* It is always much easier to clean a rifle if it is
placed in a gun cradle of some type
* PLEASE USE RUBBER GLOVES WHEN HANDLING ALL OF THESE
CHEMICALS...THEY CAN NOT BE GOOD FOR US! RUBBER GLOVES
ARE REAL CHEAP!
I have used the foam and holy cow....what a messy thing to use....obviously I have not perfected the technique. I got an action full of foam that obviously saturated the action and runs down through the stock screws into the stock and bedding. Maybe someone can enlighten me as to how to use the foam.
I shoot a bunch of factory rifles and custom guns. The Factory guns are copper fouling pigs when compared to a good custom barrel.
Please use a Neil Jones or a Lucas bore guides, the rest of them are junk leadiing to rifling wore out at 5 to 8 o'clock. If your rod guide does not have a bushing that fits on the rod to center the rod in the "rod guide" then you are wearing the rifling prematurely...make no mistake about it. The rod must be centered in the rod guide.
My cleaning regiment is like this:
* Push 4 wet patches of Montana Extreme throug the bore
* brush 15- 20 strokes with a bronze brush(discard after 75
Strokes
* push 4 wet patches through the bore
* push 2 dry patches through the bore
* push 4 wet patches of Montana 50 BMG through the
bore and let soak for 10 minutes.
* in most guns, one application of the 50 BMG will
take out all copper, you may want to run 3-4 more
patches of 50 BMG through the barrel and let it
soak to make sure that you have removed all the
Copper
* If you are in a hurry Use one of Montana exteme
plastic brushes and brush with the montana50 BMG,
the copper will be gone right now!
* It is always much easier to clean a rifle if it is
placed in a gun cradle of some type
* PLEASE USE RUBBER GLOVES WHEN HANDLING ALL OF THESE
CHEMICALS...THEY CAN NOT BE GOOD FOR US! RUBBER GLOVES
ARE REAL CHEAP!
woods
Well-Known Member
Re: Lefty you just need something that works easy and right now...
Here's how I do it and it does take a little practice.
I get 3 large patches and a long screwdriver. Push the 3 patches through the bolt shroud and about 1/2 way over the top of the magazine. Set the handle of the screwdriver on the top of the stock.
Insert the nozzle of the Wipe Out in the muzzle and give it a short (time of spray depends upon how new your can is, 1 second or less for new can and a little longer for a can that has less pressure). Be sure and point the WO nozzle at an angle downward at the muzzle since a new can under a lot of pressure can shoot WO all the way through the barrel.
Have a rag under the muzzle, drop the can and immediately put your finger over the muzzle (be quick). Lean over and watch for the WO to appear in the chamber and when you see it, push the 3 patches on the screwdriver into the chamber to close it off. Let your finger off the muzzle.
If you have done it right, very little WO will ooze out the muzzle and you can wipe it off with a rag.
Keep the gun level and turn it over after 1/2 hour or so. Pluck the patches out in an hour, 2 hours or overnight. Use them to push through the bore. Usually by the 3rd patch you are clean. One more dry patch and you are done.
The WO is worth the mess because of how clean it gets your barrel and no scrubbing necessary.
Here's how I do it and it does take a little practice.
I get 3 large patches and a long screwdriver. Push the 3 patches through the bolt shroud and about 1/2 way over the top of the magazine. Set the handle of the screwdriver on the top of the stock.
Insert the nozzle of the Wipe Out in the muzzle and give it a short (time of spray depends upon how new your can is, 1 second or less for new can and a little longer for a can that has less pressure). Be sure and point the WO nozzle at an angle downward at the muzzle since a new can under a lot of pressure can shoot WO all the way through the barrel.
Have a rag under the muzzle, drop the can and immediately put your finger over the muzzle (be quick). Lean over and watch for the WO to appear in the chamber and when you see it, push the 3 patches on the screwdriver into the chamber to close it off. Let your finger off the muzzle.
If you have done it right, very little WO will ooze out the muzzle and you can wipe it off with a rag.
Keep the gun level and turn it over after 1/2 hour or so. Pluck the patches out in an hour, 2 hours or overnight. Use them to push through the bore. Usually by the 3rd patch you are clean. One more dry patch and you are done.
The WO is worth the mess because of how clean it gets your barrel and no scrubbing necessary.
jb1000br
Official LRH Sponsor
Re: Lefty you just need something that works easy and right now...
no screwdrivers in my chamber!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
www.6mmbr.com/jbwipeout.html
Since the article I have migrated to the 7/16 OD vinyl as the outer tube with 1/4" ID Polyethelene at the spout in the rear of a Lucas bore guide...NO MESS /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
JB
no screwdrivers in my chamber!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
www.6mmbr.com/jbwipeout.html
Since the article I have migrated to the 7/16 OD vinyl as the outer tube with 1/4" ID Polyethelene at the spout in the rear of a Lucas bore guide...NO MESS /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
JB
Delta Hunter
Well-Known Member
Re: Lefty you just need something that works easy and right now...
A boreguide that seals the chamber (I use a Sinclair) makes using Wipeout a lot easier. You don't have to worry about it getting into the action, magazine, etc...
A boreguide that seals the chamber (I use a Sinclair) makes using Wipeout a lot easier. You don't have to worry about it getting into the action, magazine, etc...
