Converting 308 brass to 6.5 creedmoor? anyone try this? suggestions please.

[whitetail regulator]

Converting 308 to 6.5creed can be done I guess, but I'd like some fine details. I have questions like.
How long to trim the 308?
What brand of brass works?
Does this require neck turning?
Does this require aneling?
Any other steps missing not mentioned.
I have a good lot of federal, Hornady, and Lapua brass to try with.

 

[Canhunter35]

Buy some 6.5cm brass it'll be cheaper in the end

 

[MudRunner2005]

You can buy bulk Hornady 6.5CM brass at 100 pcs. for $40... Might as well just sell your .308 Win brass and buy the CM brass.

 

[Ckgworks]

I think everyone knows it's not worth the time, but some of us just need to tinker! Nothing wrong with that! I have never done Creedmoor from .308, but I do like to keep notes on what cases can be made from others.......I have played with making .260 brass from LC 308 brass, just so I knew how should the need every come up. I think it's easier to figure out when you don't NEED to, and have time to waste, than when Everybody is in the same boat if brass is not available........ The below is info that I have "Stole from the Web" just so I'd have notes as an option! Once again, I have not done this, but if I did, it's where I'd start! Hope this helps, and good luck!
PS....I think .250 Savage, or 22-250 would be easier...??

Convert .308 brass to Creedmore:
Deprime/Clean
Trim to 1.920"
Redding 6.5 CM type S die without the bushing using ample sizing wax.
Trim to 1.910
Turn necks to Spec thickness
Size on SMALL BASE 6.5 CM die.
Final trim

Edit to add: I think I would for sure anneal when sizing this much....

 

[whitetail regulator]

I think everyone knows it's not worth the time, but some of us just need to tinker! Nothing wrong with that! I have never done Creedmoor from .308, but I do like to keep notes on what cases can be made from others.......I have played with making .260 brass from LC 308 brass, just so I knew how should the need every come up. I think it's easier to figure out when you don't NEED to, and have time to waste, than when Everybody is in the same boat if brass is not available........ The below is info that I have "Stole from the Web" just so I'd have notes as an option! Once again, I have not done this, but if I did, it's where I'd start! Hope this helps, and good luck!
PS....I think .250 Savage, or 22-250 would be easier...??

Convert .308 brass to Creedmore:
Deprime/Clean
Trim to 1.920"
Redding 6.5 CM type S die without the bushing using ample sizing wax.
Trim to 1.910
Turn necks to Spec thickness
Size on SMALL BASE 6.5 CM die.
Final trim

Edit to add: I think I would for sure anneal when sizing this much....

Thanks... sounds like I'm gunna have to check into neck turning and annealing...which I'm shure is not time or effort effective... but I like to tinker....and doubt I'll reload 308... I just shoot factory hunting loads for hunting and keep the brass...so why not try to use it... even if it's just for plinking...I guess I could sell 308 brass and buy quality creedmoor... but there is time and effort in that too
I do plan on buying some Lapua brass for precision hunting loads in a ar10. That opens a whole other can of worms... large primer or small primer?

 

[whitetail regulator]

Various factory loads have primer dimpling? Primer flow, ejector marks on head stamp... I'm thinking small primer smaller flash hole may help this......ar10 running a 308bcg

 

[whitetail regulator]

And possibly an adjustable gas block

 

[Sflutes]

I've done it using Fed .308 brass. I had to turn the necks though which makes it more work than it's worth to me. I'll stick with the Hornady Creedmoor brass as it's held up very well for me. I do like the idea of doing your own though as a back up option.

 

[whitetail regulator]

I think everyone knows it's not worth the time, but some of us just need to tinker! Nothing wrong with that! I have never done Creedmoor from .308, but I do like to keep notes on what cases can be made from others.......I have played with making .260 brass from LC 308 brass, just so I knew how should the need every come up. I think it's easier to figure out when you don't NEED to, and have time to waste, than when Everybody is in the same boat if brass is not available........ The below is info that I have "Stole from the Web" just so I'd have notes as an option! Once again, I have not done this, but if I did, it's where I'd start! Hope this helps, and good luck!
PS....I think .250 Savage, or 22-250 would be easier...??

Convert .308 brass to Creedmore:
Deprime/Clean
Trim to 1.920"
Redding 6.5 CM type S die without the bushing using ample sizing wax.
Trim to 1.910
Turn necks to Spec thickness
Size on SMALL BASE 6.5 CM die.
Final trim

Edit to add: I think I would for sure anneal when sizing this much....

Would u anneal before or after resizing?

 

[Ckgworks]

I'm not an expert at this stuff, so if one comes along here and says different, take what I say with a grain of salt......... There's my disclaimer!
Assuming that you are using fired brass and not new, I would anneal before I started, and than at the very end as well.....It just seems like it might take some trial and error. I have heard some people say if you anneal first you run the risk of collapsing the shoulder when doing resizing like this....... I guess my answer should be I'd try both and see what works better, but I'd do it for sure at the end.

 

[whitetail regulator]

I ran some federal 308 through a 6.5 creedmoor Hornady die after trimming and got it to form up ok... still needs ran with the expander recapped in and trimmed... looks like it may need to be neck turned though

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

It's hard to get the stuff to shorten up enough (stiff chambering). I've done both 308 and 243 when creed brass was a bit hard to get. I've scrapped the idea for now as real creed brass is available, but if I had to I'd probably go to 7-08 or 243 brass and cut down my die a bit so I can push the shoulder back well enough. On a factory gun a bit of extra neck thickness would still be shoot-able, but I can see where 308 might be a bit thick and need a turning.

 

[whitetail regulator]

It's hard to get the stuff to shorten up enough (stiff chambering). I've done both 308 and 243 when creed brass was a bit hard to get. I've scrapped the idea for now as real creed brass is available, but if I had to I'd probably go to 7-08 or 243 brass and cut down my die a bit so I can push the shoulder back well enough. On a factory gun a bit of extra neck thickness would still be shoot-able, but I can see where 308 might be a bit thick and need a turning.

A different brand of brass such as Hornady or Lapua may work out better.... I was able to get the shoulder pushed back more that a once fired case from my rig... but not quite full length sized.... I think it should work provided the neck doesn't need turning...

 

[CaptnC]

I've done it with Hornady 308 brass. I have a trimmer that I use in a drill press because they are super long after sizing.

I don't turn the neck, but do anneal the brass before sixing. It is my most accurate brass. Which IMO shows I need a bit more neck tension.

6.5 Hornady brass is so easy to get I have my 6.5/308 brass is now just bagged up...

Oh it was a an interesting project, but I don't recommend it!