Confused . . . and Frustrated

[lckytylr]

Gun was cleaned less than 20 rounds ago. After reading many different discussions on barrel cleaning, I still can't determine how often is appropriate without fear of needlessly stressing the barrel.

I wouldn't mind shooting berbers, but are they that wonderful for hunting?

I don't feel like I was having an "average day", I actually felt really solid for all of my shots.

Wind conditions were very constant in both direction and speed.

I'll start snooping around to see what bipod I should buy. Don't want to spend an arm-and-a-leg.

 

[WildRose]

If you are not going to shoot from a bipod in the field, I would save your money. Just buy a few more sandbags. You can buy empty shot bags on Ebay for next to nothing and they make great shooting bags.

As someone said I'd go back to basics. The thing I've seen that will cause more inconsistency in shooting groups is uneven torquing of the action screws so I'd say start there. If you don't have a torque driver, go buy one. Even a properly bedded action will be stressed if the action screws are not properly torqued and that will produce inconsistent groups.

You haven't mentioned here whether or not a good bedding job has been done on the rifle either and that's the second most common culprit as far as I've seen. While not everyone agrees my personal belief is that you install pillars and do a good bedding/floating before ever even shooting a rifle for the first time. You will need to do both at some point so save yourself the wear and tear on your shoulder and wasted ammo and start there.

You'll save a lot of aggravation as well.

 

[lckytylr]

Thus far, I've done all of my hunting shots laying down and using my pack as a rest. I used to shoot rock chucks with a bipod and felt more steady.

I don't know who did the bedding, it looks awful, but I don't know what to look for regarding function. Some things that are known to be hidden, may not look very pretty, but might work as intended. Not sure.

For a 700, what's the proper torque for the screws?

 

[WildRose]

Thus far, I've done all of my hunting shots laying down and using my pack as a rest. I used to shoot rock chucks with a bipod and felt more steady.

I don't know who did the bedding, it looks awful, but I don't know what to look for regarding function. Some things that are known to be hidden, may not look very pretty, but might work as intended. Not sure.

For a 700, what's the proper torque for the screws?

Get some carpenter's chalk line chalk, or even some baby powder. Remove the barreled action and give particularly the lug area a light dusting.

Reinstall, torque both screws to at least 35 in/lbs and then go shoot it for five or ten rounds.

Afterwards very carefully remove it lifting it straight up out of the stock. If it looks like the chalk is smeared from front to rear it's moving on you at least a little bit with each shot. If it is I'd redo the bedding.

In a good stout stock with pillars I'd torque it a little more. Of course if the bedding is right there's no real reason to torque it any tighter.

 

[AZShooter]

Now that the rifle and not the load may be suspect, I might as well share with you my checklist.


Check front action screw hole for epoxy

Leupold windage style base windage side screws not tight

Ruger rings not properly placed in intregal bases


Forward screw of front base touching threads of barrel shank

Recoil lug making early contact in bottom of bedding (rocking action)

Action screw bottoming out in blind hole

Poor crown, optimal way is to check with bore scope

Action screw holes in stock too small, drill larger so sides of action screw won't touch

Bolt handle touching stock

Mag box must not bind

Trigger group must not touch stock

Trigger guard must not touch trigger

Uneven bedding--- tightening one action screw to see if the action pulls up at other end.

Action screws properly torqued

Barrel having adequate clearance where it is supposed to be floated

Clean bore

Hope this helps.