jmden
Well-Known Member
Interesting thread.
This is what I do and I'm sure some of you more expereinced will have some ideas one way or the other:
1-pick up 300RUM cases where I can inspect each case before purchase-can't be completely sure they are from the same lot, but most likely are--each case is inspected for centered primer/flashhole, flashole inspected from both sides and from inside checked to make sure no obstructions and properly factory deburred, neck reasonably round, any other visual anomolies noted and dealt with
2-anneal case mouth/shoulder--I know I've heard that they are supposed to be annealed from the factory, but I don't see the look of the 338 Lap, for instance and i'm not sure how much I would trust the annealing job of most American made brass anyway--just trying to treat every case as consistently as possible
3-trim to length I've decided on based on measured chamber length--chamfer and debur
4-I don't sort these cases by weight and don't sort them at all other than that mentioned in step one--did a bunch of testing a few years ago prompted by a member that used to post here alot years ago from AK (Brent, I think) that he'd found that the case volume had little to do with the case weight on these 300RUM cases and that the case volumes were remarkably consistent regardless of case weight differences--I found the same so I don't weigh these anymore
5-run 'em through the matched Sinclair mandrel for the Sinclair neck turning tool and then neck turn to take off approx. 75-80%
6-run through the Redding FL die with .008 competition shellholder (to fit the chamber more closely and reduce the amount of brass being worked)
Edit: just trying to get the case as straigt as possible so that the first firing might potentially be used to start to get an accurate load development process going. Some of these cases do look straighter/better to me after doing this and it seems to have provided more consistent results with fireforming loads. Could be wrong--lots of variables.
7-fireform
This usually leave me with less than .001 runout on the Sinclair concentricity guage. Edit: ...after reloading again, that is. Bullet and case neck runout is typically held to less than .001 AND I have gone back to used the regular FL dies with button expander. Big no no, I know, but I get straighter cases than when I've tried 2 different bushing dies. There's several keys here, I think, two of which are to let your shell holder float (nothing retains mine) and let your button expander float but soft seating the adj. nut against and o-ring. This lets the expander find it's own center--the center the die just made on the case. Use Imperial Sizing wax as well--have yet to find anything that does as well as this stuff. Just whst seems to work well for me. I seat .010 from the lands with 210 Berger and have been getting very consistent precision from this factory rifle, but there's alot of work that has gone into improving the entire system (including my shooting form), so it's difficult to pinpoint any one area. Lots of little things might add up.
This is what I do and I'm sure some of you more expereinced will have some ideas one way or the other:
1-pick up 300RUM cases where I can inspect each case before purchase-can't be completely sure they are from the same lot, but most likely are--each case is inspected for centered primer/flashhole, flashole inspected from both sides and from inside checked to make sure no obstructions and properly factory deburred, neck reasonably round, any other visual anomolies noted and dealt with
2-anneal case mouth/shoulder--I know I've heard that they are supposed to be annealed from the factory, but I don't see the look of the 338 Lap, for instance and i'm not sure how much I would trust the annealing job of most American made brass anyway--just trying to treat every case as consistently as possible
3-trim to length I've decided on based on measured chamber length--chamfer and debur
4-I don't sort these cases by weight and don't sort them at all other than that mentioned in step one--did a bunch of testing a few years ago prompted by a member that used to post here alot years ago from AK (Brent, I think) that he'd found that the case volume had little to do with the case weight on these 300RUM cases and that the case volumes were remarkably consistent regardless of case weight differences--I found the same so I don't weigh these anymore
5-run 'em through the matched Sinclair mandrel for the Sinclair neck turning tool and then neck turn to take off approx. 75-80%
6-run through the Redding FL die with .008 competition shellholder (to fit the chamber more closely and reduce the amount of brass being worked)
Edit: just trying to get the case as straigt as possible so that the first firing might potentially be used to start to get an accurate load development process going. Some of these cases do look straighter/better to me after doing this and it seems to have provided more consistent results with fireforming loads. Could be wrong--lots of variables.
7-fireform
This usually leave me with less than .001 runout on the Sinclair concentricity guage. Edit: ...after reloading again, that is. Bullet and case neck runout is typically held to less than .001 AND I have gone back to used the regular FL dies with button expander. Big no no, I know, but I get straighter cases than when I've tried 2 different bushing dies. There's several keys here, I think, two of which are to let your shell holder float (nothing retains mine) and let your button expander float but soft seating the adj. nut against and o-ring. This lets the expander find it's own center--the center the die just made on the case. Use Imperial Sizing wax as well--have yet to find anything that does as well as this stuff. Just whst seems to work well for me. I seat .010 from the lands with 210 Berger and have been getting very consistent precision from this factory rifle, but there's alot of work that has gone into improving the entire system (including my shooting form), so it's difficult to pinpoint any one area. Lots of little things might add up.
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