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Concentricity gage

Not a bad idea, really the only three parts that you need are v-blocks (with rollers if you want to be fancy), a tail stop, and a way to hold the indicator.
I tried the V block today. Was a pain trying to hold it and rotate it. Found some small bearings and going to make some roller V blocks. Already have a drop indicator stand.
 
I am getting into long range shooting. I have a 338 lapua. What concentricity gages are you guys running. Pros cons
The Hornady tool is easy to use and it also provides a corrective pusher. It took me a little time to get on to it but I wouldn't use any other now. With light neck tension correcting run out is a snap.
 
The Hornady tool is easy to use and it also provides a corrective pusher. It took me a little time to get on to it but I wouldn't use any other now. With light neck tension correcting run out is a snap.
I use one as well, I didn't like the screw marring the bullet jacket so I modified a cap nut and that fixed it. I do agree with others that preventing runout is much better than correcting it. On RCBS full length dies, an O-ring on the threads of the decapping pin helps greatly against runout.
 
The Hornady tool is easy to use and it also provides a corrective pusher. It took me a little time to get on to it but I wouldn't use any other now. With light neck tension correcting run out is a snap.
Did it make your loads shoot better? It made mine shot worse and I adjusted to nearly zero tir.
 
I have the hornady match dies with a 365 bushing in it and a brand new Frankfort arsenal coaxial press. Will make a dummy or two and check them out
And most importantly you have good brass to start with that's more likely straight now before it's handled, rather than some being pickled right out of the box. 👍 You are on a good track, once you get your sled running check the brass at each step and you can see where/if any problems come up.

Managing concentricity is a process, it's something where you can't really fix it - you have to work to not add it.


I use LE Wilson "new" brass mandrels on all new cases. Some guys FL size new brass (backed off to not touch the shoulder hopefully), but I don't even pull buttons back through my necks so I use the mandrel up front. Rounds the necks out, evens them out, sets them up for a good chamfer and deburr. Don't trim new out of the box cases, they'll get uneven again as the shoulders fill out completely.

Loaded runout is +/-0.001 on a bad day, trim length is +/-0.005" or so and the cases have never once seen a trimmer.

 
I have the hornady and 21st century concentricity tools. The hornady tool has enough slop in it that without turning the case I can throw it out by .006 just by moving the shaft. Ive stopped using it. Before using one, I always check the case body for straightness. Ive found cases with quite a bit of runout measured at the body just behind the shoulder which is where the v-block or bearing is. This translated into even more neck runout. The best concentricity gauge in the world is useless without a true body to run on. Like Texan said, I went with Wilson dies and haven't touched a concentricity gauge since. Good quality dies make concentricity a non issue
 
I use mine mostly for checking the concentricity. If I am more than 3 thou out. I might nudge it with the Hornady, but that is very seldom.
 
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