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Complete Reloading Newby, Advice for 7mm loads

I shoot a 1:9.5 that loves the Berger 180's. Stabilizes them fine. I use h1000 which I highly recommend because it is so temp stable

I've used the Berger 180 and
H 1000 combo to develop handloads in 3 barebones factory 7mm mag rifles that all shoot 1/2 MOA or better with it. I never played with seating depth, so far in 7 rifles with Berger VLD's I've just used .015" into lands
 
Thanks for the post, I initially looked into getting some Berger 168 VLDs however my barrel doesn't have enough twist to stabilize them (it's only 1 in 9.5"), at least that according to Berger's website. One of the reasons I will eventually re-barrel the rifle, but I'll look at the powders you suggested and I'll try to put a ladder test together with whatever loads I do work up, thanks.
I had this same rifle. Twist should be 9.25". It shot the 168s beautifully, even when only pushed 2750 with IMR 4350.
Try RL 26 with Hornady 162 ELD-Ms; mine shot them under an inch no matter what I tried. Since you're new to reloading I won't quote charges or velocities but they was a smokin'
 
I had this same rifle. Twist should be 9.25". It shot the 168s beautifully, even when only pushed 2750 with IMR 4350.
Try RL 26 with Hornady 162 ELD-Ms; mine shot them under an inch no matter what I tried. Since you're new to reloading I won't quote charges or velocities but they was a smokin'

How do you think RL 25 would work with 162 Hornady Amax?
 
I had this same rifle. Twist should be 9.25". It shot the 168s beautifully, even when only pushed 2750 with IMR 4350.
Try RL 26 with Hornady 162 ELD-Ms; mine shot them under an inch no matter what I tried. Since you're new to reloading I won't quote charges or velocities but they was a smokin'

Ok, I know what bullet I'm trying next. 168 VLDs.
 
Reloader 22 is my go to powder in the 7mag.
140gr bullets - 69.5grs
150gr bullets - 67.5grs
160gr bullets - 66.0grs
175gr bullets - 63.0grs

RL 22 was my first choice of powder, however I couldn't find any at my local gun store and frankly couldn't justify the 30.00 hazmat/shipping fee that I would have had to pay to get one pound of powder. Once I settle on a powder or two, it might make sense if the price is right.
 
Thanks for the post, I initially looked into getting some Berger 168 VLDs however my barrel doesn't have enough twist to stabilize them (it's only 1 in 9.5"), at least that according to Berger's website. One of the reasons I will eventually re-barrel the rifle, but I'll look at the powders you suggested and I'll try to put a ladder test together with whatever loads I do work up, thanks.
No problem man, here to help. Also, a 9.5" twist will stabilize the 168 VLD's with no issues. I used to shoot them in a Browning A-Bolt 2 with a 9.5" twist that stacked them into 1/2 minute groups, and in a bunch of factory 700 barrels with a 9.25" twist. One of my 7mm STW's still has the factory 9.25" barrel on it, and it shoots the Berger 180 Hybrids into sub-1/2 minute groups.
 
RL 22 is one I could never get to shoot well. Just goes to show you've got to try out a good sample size of your own
Given the other modern magnum powders available today, I don't even feel it's relevant for magnum cartridges. But that's just my opinion. I use RL-19 and RL-22 for fire-forming AI cases.
 
I have several friends with 7 rem mags, plus my own. We had good results with the Berger 168 Classic hunter and Retumbo. Velocities were 3050 to 3100. I realize the 168 VLD has a higher BC but the classic hunter uses a hybrid ogive design and it is easier to get to shoot. All rifles had bullets seated to fit and feed from magazine and none made contact with the lands. None required any more work than trying different powder charges for best accuracy. VLDs often require seating depth changes which can get very frustrating looking for the best accuracy.

You asked for reloading information. I would like to mention that many manuals and even the directions in some die boxes say to run the full length sizing die down till it touches the shell holder. This is wrong. Best way it to partially FL size the brass so the brass is only sized enough for a proper fit in the chamber of the rifle that fired it. Over sizing the brass will cause the brass to stretch requiring frequent trimming AND eventually causing a dangerous condition called case separation.
 
I have several friends with 7 rem mags, plus my own. We had good results with the Berger 168 Classic hunter and Retumbo. Velocities were 3050 to 3100. I realize the 168 VLD has a higher BC but the classic hunter uses a hybrid ogive design and it is easier to get to shoot. All rifles had bullets seated to fit and feed from magazine and none made contact with the lands. None required any more work than trying different powder charges for best accuracy. VLDs often require seating depth changes which can get very frustrating looking for the best accuracy.

You asked for reloading information. I would like to mention that many manuals and even the directions in some die boxes say to run the full length sizing die down till it touches the shell holder. This is wrong. Best way it to partially FL size the brass so the brass is only sized enough for a proper fit in the chamber of the rifle that fired it. Over sizing the brass will cause the brass to stretch requiring frequent trimming AND eventually causing a dangerous condition called case separation.

Is this the same procedure as neck sizing or is it slightly different? I purchased some already-primed brass from a vendor on gunbroker and the seller mentioned to me that I should only neck size as that will increase brass life. However, I've also heard that I can get some brass swelling that could make it difficult to fit my rifle after so many firings if I don't full length resize. So would it make sense to neck size/partial full length resize 80-75% and then full length resize the other 20-25% and try to get the best of both worlds? This idea could be completely off base, that's why I am asking before I go and actually do something like this.
 
Berger's reloading book has good info as well. I have the Hornady, Speer, Nosler, and Berger and between them, I think they cover almost all the gaps.
 
Is this the same procedure as neck sizing or is it slightly different? I purchased some already-primed brass from a vendor on gunbroker and the seller mentioned to me that I should only neck size as that will increase brass life. However, I've also heard that I can get some brass swelling that could make it difficult to fit my rifle after so many firings if I don't full length resize. So would it make sense to neck size/partial full length resize 80-75% and then full length resize the other 20-25% and try to get the best of both worlds? This idea could be completely off base, that's why I am asking before I go and actually do something like this.
I neck-size only until my cases give me resistance when closing the bolt on a loaded round. Then I FL resize them all once to push the shoulder back some, then I go back to neck-sizing until I get more resistance, then FL size once again, then neck-sizing...etc...etc... I get quite a few loadings between having to FL resize them. Sometimes, if the chamber is cut right, and to good tolerances, your brass will wear out and need replacing before needing FL sizing, and you will never have to FL resize them. Had this happen quite a few times with high-quality brass.
 
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As several have already given witness to, Berger's reloading manual stated at least 1 in 10 twist for the 168's. Your rifle should stabilize thet168's just fine. Go to the Berger website and follow their recommendation for finding your best seating depth on VLD'S. I do a ladder test first, starting at .010" off the lands to determine the charge node I want to use, and then work with seating depth to find the tightest group. Berger bullets are very consistent within the same lot number, but you will find variance between lots. My advice is to buy enough bullets of the same lot # so that you aren't out of that number by the time you find your best load. Same for powder.
 
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