Mysticplayer
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2001
- Messages
- 1,459
Here are some thoughts about the cleaning schedule that I am now using. I first started out using a variety of off the shelf cleaners and found that Barnes CR10 is the best cleaner that I can find. I use it to clean both the carbon and copper. It just takes it down in steps.
While reviewing the internet, I came across a suggestion for home brew cleaners. One great product is actually made by General Motors. It is their top end engine cleaner. In Canada, it is called CLEEN. It works very well for carbon fouling and only carbon fouling. Priced a lot cheaper then nitro cleaners too.
Then I use some very strong Janitorial strength Ammonia to get rid of the copper. The stuff you find in the grocery store doesn't work worth spit. This works equal or better then CR 10 which I consider the best on the market so far. This ammonia removes the toughest copper deposits even in pitted military barrels. doesn't do spit for the carbon and even leaves the moly layer intact. This stuff is so cheap an entire club could get a bottle for a about a buck.
So now I have a two part cleaning program. For barrels that have both carbon and copper fouling, I use both cleaners. For my match or super smooth barrels that don't copper foul much, I only use the CLEEN. Saves time and effort. Costs about 1/4 that of Barnes CR10 for equal volume.
For lapping or super cleaning, I will use JB as directed on the bottle. I have also started using the "red" stuff. More gritty and suitable for lapping. Good stuff.
One thing to keep in mind is that many smooth barrels really don't need to be cleaned much at all. I clean because the rifle has either been shot enough that accuracy is drifting, the rifle is going to be stored for a long time, or it has been out in the elements and rust is a risk. I also clean to a level that restores accuracy. Going to bare metal everytime may be more work and wear then necessary.
Many of my rifles require quite a bit of fouling shots to settle down. At which point, it is just as fouled as before I cleaned it. I use moly bullets (no wax) a lot and for better or worse, it seems to keep accuracy going for a large number of shots. Some barrels just don't like being cleaned.
The Kleen bore brushes are the best. Very stiff and alum shafts. Don't bother with brass shafts, just gives you more copper to clean out.
I now cut my own patches from white flannel found at Walmart. About 1/10 the cost of patches sold in the hunting stores and you can make them any size to fit.
For long term storarge, I have heard of shooters using an engine storage oil instead of oils like WD40 or light gun oils. I guess as long as it will displace moisture and not damage the bore, should work.
Cleaning is a very personal thing so I hope some of these ideas can help.
Good luck...
Jerry
While reviewing the internet, I came across a suggestion for home brew cleaners. One great product is actually made by General Motors. It is their top end engine cleaner. In Canada, it is called CLEEN. It works very well for carbon fouling and only carbon fouling. Priced a lot cheaper then nitro cleaners too.
Then I use some very strong Janitorial strength Ammonia to get rid of the copper. The stuff you find in the grocery store doesn't work worth spit. This works equal or better then CR 10 which I consider the best on the market so far. This ammonia removes the toughest copper deposits even in pitted military barrels. doesn't do spit for the carbon and even leaves the moly layer intact. This stuff is so cheap an entire club could get a bottle for a about a buck.
So now I have a two part cleaning program. For barrels that have both carbon and copper fouling, I use both cleaners. For my match or super smooth barrels that don't copper foul much, I only use the CLEEN. Saves time and effort. Costs about 1/4 that of Barnes CR10 for equal volume.
For lapping or super cleaning, I will use JB as directed on the bottle. I have also started using the "red" stuff. More gritty and suitable for lapping. Good stuff.
One thing to keep in mind is that many smooth barrels really don't need to be cleaned much at all. I clean because the rifle has either been shot enough that accuracy is drifting, the rifle is going to be stored for a long time, or it has been out in the elements and rust is a risk. I also clean to a level that restores accuracy. Going to bare metal everytime may be more work and wear then necessary.
Many of my rifles require quite a bit of fouling shots to settle down. At which point, it is just as fouled as before I cleaned it. I use moly bullets (no wax) a lot and for better or worse, it seems to keep accuracy going for a large number of shots. Some barrels just don't like being cleaned.
The Kleen bore brushes are the best. Very stiff and alum shafts. Don't bother with brass shafts, just gives you more copper to clean out.
I now cut my own patches from white flannel found at Walmart. About 1/10 the cost of patches sold in the hunting stores and you can make them any size to fit.
For long term storarge, I have heard of shooters using an engine storage oil instead of oils like WD40 or light gun oils. I guess as long as it will displace moisture and not damage the bore, should work.
Cleaning is a very personal thing so I hope some of these ideas can help.
Good luck...
Jerry
