Cleaning bolt action

[Barrelnut]

Old tooth brush dipped in Hoppes number 9. Clean inside action and all around trigger group, recoil lug etc. Use an Otis or Tipton lug cleaner with Hoppes on a cotton plugs to clean the bolt lug area in the action. Have been using that method for 45 years. Still does the best job unless you completely disassemble everything. Inside of bolt I clean with Hoppes and reassemble with only that for lube because at -40 any oil is NOT good.

This is what I use also. Good tool.

 

[BoomFlop]

I ordered the Tipton kit with 100 extra swabs.

Thanks everyone!
Steve

 

[Gord0]

Everyone should have WD 40 around the house and it makes a good safe cleaner for these areas. It has some lubricating abilities and will not harm and materials. The carrier has cleaning abilities (It was designed to clean rocket parts) and with protection agents it prevents moisture from forming on parts.

After cleaning the bore I place the muzzle down and wash the bolt lug and the chamber area with WD 40, let it drain while i am washing the bolt off with it. them wipe everything off and swab the chamber with a cotton swab and a few patches and then apply a light coating of oil to everything that the solvent may have came in contact with.

There are other cleaners, but they may have products in them that can/may harm some materials.

J E CUSTOM

WD-40 works great, but you have to go back with a lube/protectant. I have really been liking the Hornady one shot cleaner/lube/protectant for this lately.
https://www.shootersforum.com/gun-c...-product-evaluation.html#/topics/91566?page=1

 

[J E Custom]

What about Brake Cleaner/Degreaser?

Some brake cleaners have chlorides that can damage some alloy's so I don't recommend them because they don't always come with contents listed or only the most active ingredient. carburetor cleaner falls in to the same group as far as I am concerned. Work in chemical plants for over 30 years has taught me that chemicals can do great harm to certain alloys, so I avoid products that are not purposely designed for a use, especially some stainless's.

Just Me

J E CUSTOM

 

[J E Custom]

Trivia Anyone ?
WD 40 Was invented in 1953 as water dispersing cleaner/lubricant It took 40 tries to get the formula worked out so they named it WD (for water dispersing) and 40 for the number of tries to get it right.

It also works great on electrical and electronics cleaning. Like duck tape, everyone should have some.

J E CUSTOM

 

[ronstone09]

I think this is what you're looking for, from Sinclair/Brownells.View attachment 121743

i have used these sinclair action toolsfor years and they do the job on rails and tough to get to areas

 

[Dave Fiehtner]

Everyone should have WD 40 around the house and it makes a good safe cleaner for these areas. It has some lubricating abilities and will not harm and materials. The carrier has cleaning abilities (It was designed to clean rocket parts) and with protection agents it prevents moisture from forming on parts.

After cleaning the bore I place the muzzle down and wash the bolt lug and the chamber area with WD 40, let it drain while i am washing the bolt off with it. them wipe everything off and swab the chamber with a cotton swab and a few patches and then apply a light coating of oil to everything that the solvent may have came in contact with.

There are other cleaners, but they may have products in them that can/may harm some materials.

J E CUSTOM

WD40 is kerosene in a pretty can.

 

[Chamberman]

Sinclair tools as mentioned above.... Work awesome!
Also, don't forget to place a tiny, tiny bit of anti- seize on the back of your bolt lugs after it is all clean to keep them from galling against the lug abutments.

 

[J E Custom]

WD40 is kerosene in a pretty can.

Sorry Dave. I don't think they could patent The formula If it were Kerosene. Besides, it does not have any flashback like petroleum products. It will burn, but the vapors wont ignite it like other solvents.

Having/using a flammable produce in a missile silo would not be a good idea. (Its intended use). PS: gasoline was originally used for a cleaning agent before it was used in cars. (A much better use, and much safer)

I don't sell the stuff, just use it a lot.

J E CUSTOM

 

[Buzzsaw]

lose the Dewy rods, black coating cones off on patches. ask me how i know

for the action, i HIGHLY recommend the action/chamber cleaning tool from PMC Tools

 

[jebel]

Question: Several of the responses to this thread suggest finishing off your regiment by oiling/lubing things well, including the chamber. I generally try to avoid lube in my chamber. I clean it, and then use degreaser to finish. The article below largely explains why I don't want any lubricant in the chamber of my rifle.

Thoughts? Reactions?

https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2011/05/foghorn/ndia-lube-in-your-chamber-is-bad/

 

[Dean2]

Question: Several of the responses to this thread suggest finishing off your regiment by oiling/lubing things well, including the chamber. I generally try to avoid lube in my chamber. I clean it, and then use degreaser to finish. The article below largely explains why I don't want any lubricant in the chamber of my rifle.

Thoughts? Reactions?

https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2011/05/foghorn/ndia-lube-in-your-chamber-is-bad/

Oil is to stop rust, before you use the gun you want to take some alcohol or acetone and remove the oil from the chamber, sear, trigger group, bolt inards etc. Cold weather and oil are a bad mix. If you want to use lube on parts and leave it there, except the chamber which should not be lubed in use, use something specifically designed for real cold weather.

 

[Buzzsaw]

dry metal and water dont mix

 

[J E Custom]

I oil all of my chambers for storage but clean and dry patch for use.

The main reason for a clean chamber is that a case can grip the chamber wall during firing reducing the bolt loading and case stretch.

The oil protects the chamber from moisture during storage just like it does the bore, but again it needs to be removed before firing.

The preferred finish in a chamber is/has a honed look to aid in gripping and is the reason that a polished chamber doesn't perform as well. All brass will have spring back so extraction is not an issue unless the load is to hot.

J E CUSTOM