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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Cerakote, just a few questions????
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<blockquote data-quote="osok-1k" data-source="post: 1519727" data-attributes="member: 106259"><p>I've been doing Cerakote since it came on the market and before that I used KG Gunkote. The key to a good finish is prep work, which means the surface structure must be coarse enough for a good bond (100 grit aluminum oxide blast) and meticulously cleaned by soaking in acetone or MEK for an hour. Spraying off the surface with brake clean will work but only to a degree. The heating part is to cook off any residual oils that are in the pores of the metal and wont come off with just acetone. After blasting, another hour soak in acetone will remove any residual aluminum oxide and then you're ready to apply the finish. If you don't have a spray booth the garage works (with a respirator for you) but it needs to be done with the door closed and lots of good light and wait long enough for dust to settle. Your spray gun needs to have the 8 nozzle and you need to strain the mix with a 125 mesh filter for "H". You also need to consider receiver boltways which you may or may not want to be coated depending on tolerances. The chamber area absolutely must not be blasted or sprayed. Rubber plugs are a must for muzzle and chamber in both the blasting process as well as spraying. All of this is important, which is why a good Cerakote applicator charges what they do. Spraying and baking is easy, the prep ain't. Watch the video on the website (if you haven't already). All of this sounds very fundamental, because it is to have a good result.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="osok-1k, post: 1519727, member: 106259"] I've been doing Cerakote since it came on the market and before that I used KG Gunkote. The key to a good finish is prep work, which means the surface structure must be coarse enough for a good bond (100 grit aluminum oxide blast) and meticulously cleaned by soaking in acetone or MEK for an hour. Spraying off the surface with brake clean will work but only to a degree. The heating part is to cook off any residual oils that are in the pores of the metal and wont come off with just acetone. After blasting, another hour soak in acetone will remove any residual aluminum oxide and then you're ready to apply the finish. If you don't have a spray booth the garage works (with a respirator for you) but it needs to be done with the door closed and lots of good light and wait long enough for dust to settle. Your spray gun needs to have the 8 nozzle and you need to strain the mix with a 125 mesh filter for "H". You also need to consider receiver boltways which you may or may not want to be coated depending on tolerances. The chamber area absolutely must not be blasted or sprayed. Rubber plugs are a must for muzzle and chamber in both the blasting process as well as spraying. All of this is important, which is why a good Cerakote applicator charges what they do. Spraying and baking is easy, the prep ain't. Watch the video on the website (if you haven't already). All of this sounds very fundamental, because it is to have a good result. [/QUOTE]
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Cerakote, just a few questions????
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