Case neck gauge questions

[pyroducksx3]

So I'm intrested in picking up a case neck measuring gauge. Im looking at the redding model. I'm hearing that its best to sort cases using the neck wall uniformity with more than 1/2 thousandths differential, (unrelated because the gauge in in thousandths but would this be .005 or .0015). I guess my question is, a good tool for this and also does this tool easily measure case thickness as well as uniformity. I thought about just getting a tube micrometer for this but this seems far easier and faster, with equal accuracy as far as case sorting goes. Any thought, comment, or advise? Thank you And just for info I'll be sorting norma brass and am buying 120-150 pieces of brass.

 

[Kevin Thomas]

Redding and Sinclair both make similar models for this, and they both work about the same. Sinclair also has a micrometer based neck gage that's pretty slick, but will run you $150 or better. Aside form this one, the other tools are intended to measure to a thousandth (.001") fro quick sorting. Using a decent gage you should be able to do pretty decently down to the 1/2 thou you mentioned (.0005") without too much difficulty.

What are you loading, anyway? Didn't mention in your original post, just curious.

 

[pyroducksx3]

Reloading a 7 Rem mag. Gun is a factory chambered 700, 26" barrel. Brass will be norma, dies are the redding competition 3 die set with competition shellholders and I am getting the sizing button kit as well. I will probably start with 140 AB and try using either retumbo or ramshot magnum powder.

 

[Trickymissfit]

I built my own using a gauge pin, and the option to use a conventional gear & rack indicator or a wand type. Gear & rack indicators are well known for error built into them (most are rated at 10% lag). So if the indicator reverses direction in travel; your readings are probably flawed. Where as a typical wand type indicator is rated at about 3% for the cheap ones. An Interrapid or Brown & Sharpe Best Test are rated for zero lag in any position. Also most folks don't know that if you zero an indicator at the twelve o clock position, and rotate it to the six o clock position (upside down) the reading is flawed. There are some good gear & rack indicators that are rated in the 3% area. These will have a jewelled mechanism, and are not cheap. You can avoid much of this by using an electronic indicator, or simply buy an Interrapid that will do everything.
gary

 

[pyroducksx3]

So the interapid indicator is actually something I was looking for but didnt know what they were called. I also didnt realize how expensive they were. So I was thinking if I got one of the interrapid indicators I would need a way to turn the round to measure uniformity anyway. Would it be a bad option to buy the redding case neck gauge and then when I upgrade to the interapid use the mandrels from that, so either replace the gauge on the redding with the interaid or cut the top of and just use the stand part that spins the case. Or another option would be to use a case trimmer, because it also spins the case and set the indicator to measure of that, not while trimming but just to spin the round. The concern I have with the case trimmer methods is I wonder how much error I would get because of the quality, ability of the trimmer to turn the case perfectly. I saw that redding has a case trimming "lathe" which was expensive though, but may have the consistency to accurately measure with the interrapid gauge. I'm not trying to short cut just trying to do what I can with what I can afford. Redding gauge 70-80$ I can do but an interapid gauge 170$ and up, plus the redding 2400 case trimming lathe 230$ is hard to swing right now. I need a good trimmer probably anyway but for now I have been using the lee trimmers that use the rod, cutter, and electric drill with holder.

 

[Mikecr]

Article about it:
Tools for Measuring Case Neckwalls

I'll suggest you stay away from dial indicators for neck thickness. They don't work for ****, I don't know why, but I do know it for sure..
Go with a Sinclair ball mic, and add a stop for the case mouth so that you're measuring the same distance down the neck from case to case.

Thickness variance runs full length of a case, so finding it in the necks(your tolerance is good) is a show-stopper for me. It goes right in the trash can.
Otherwise, thicker brass springs back differently than the rest, and with every cycle of the brass runout climbs until your left with a box of bananas..

 

[Trickymissfit]

So the interapid indicator is actually something I was looking for but didnt know what they were called. I also didnt realize how expensive they were. So I was thinking if I got one of the interrapid indicators I would need a way to turn the round to measure uniformity anyway. Would it be a bad option to buy the redding case neck gauge and then when I upgrade to the interapid use the mandrels from that, so either replace the gauge on the redding with the interaid or cut the top of and just use the stand part that spins the case. Or another option would be to use a case trimmer, because it also spins the case and set the indicator to measure of that, not while trimming but just to spin the round. The concern I have with the case trimmer methods is I wonder how much error I would get because of the quality, ability of the trimmer to turn the case perfectly. I saw that redding has a case trimming "lathe" which was expensive though, but may have the consistency to accurately measure with the interrapid gauge. I'm not trying to short cut just trying to do what I can with what I can afford. Redding gauge 70-80$ I can do but an interapid gauge 170$ and up, plus the redding 2400 case trimming lathe 230$ is hard to swing right now. I need a good trimmer probably anyway but for now I have been using the lee trimmers that use the rod, cutter, and electric drill with holder.

First of all not all gauging setups are similar. If you buy a sixty dollar case gauge that comes with a $25 indicator; this ought to tell you something! Interrapids and Best Test indicators are pricey, but you get what you pay for. You can do fine 98% of the time with a good quality wand type indicator (Federals are very good quality) as long as you never plan on rotating it. A $20 GEM indicator you buy at the hockshop will be better than the indicator that Redding, Sinclair, or most of the rest use.

If you have access to a fairly good drill press, and maybe two and a half hours time on your hands; you can build one that will be as good as most anything on the market. I mean they're not rocket science. You simply need something to hold the pin, and a good solid indicator mount (even a mag base will do that part). Also you simply do not need a .0001" indicator, and a good .0005" will do the job quite well.
gary